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I am writing from Provence, France, and I have just returned from the local outdoor market, le march , as it is called in French.
It's not my first marchexperience, of course, because I grew up here, in the small town of Fontvieille. But I don't get back that often, and what strikes me today, as I wander from vendor to vendor, is that market attendance is as massive as it was when I left home almost two decades ago.
I mean, what brings French people to the market with the same motivation as always?
After all, going to le march is not about convenience. Parking is horrendous, vendors do not accept checks or credit cards, you are not guaranteed to find what you are looking for, and if you do, you will have to carry your purchases back to your car, hopefully parked close by, but probably not.
Life has changed in France. Food is still culturally important, but new generations value convenience. Huge Carrefour supermarkets are everywhere. And you can, in these Wal-Martish giants, find at least two refrigerated aisles of fine cheese, as much quality wine or charcuterie, plus luxury items such as foie gras and one full aisle of artisan olive oils.
This morning I follow Chantal, an elegant middle-aged Provencal lady and a regular of le march. Chantal comes here as often as she goes to Carrefour but, she says, prices are often better in the street, because the middle man is cut out, and the competition between market vendors is fierce.
Plus, you just can't beat the quality. And that's what's worth the trouble. Pricing and extraordinary quality. Fresh produce is everywhere, looking bright and healthy, most of it organic and ripened on the tree/vine. Fish is unloaded from the small boat behind the stand.
Chantal tells me that the redfish look especially good, and she will prepare it a la regalido , with a black olive tapenade dressing and ratatouille, along with a beautiful roussette, a local variety of lettuce. Here the small stand of honey, operated by a local beekeeper Chantal knows, attracts a family of tourists like bees.
On the Place de L'Eglise , under the tall sycamore trees, are several cheese producers, offering hundreds of choices. Dozens of goat cheeses of varying tang, freshness and firmness. Most of the regional labels France has to offer are represented here. The cheeses are also labeled by provenance, including the name of the artisan, kind of milk used and degree of firmness.
A lot of the stands are just small tables staffed by artisans or farmers, who just go down to town to make their products known. Here, the extra-virgin, unfiltered, organic olive oil from the local moulin, or mill, is presented by the daughter of the owner. There is an amazing satisfaction in finding a true, authentic food product, meet the artisan who makes it and discuss with him or her of the quality.
The market is bursting with life. Chantal, a discerning buyer, has her favorite vendors. She does not wander, but rather goes straight to their stands, cracks a few jokes in the Provencal tradition, chooses her stuff, pays and move on to the next.
Markets have pretty much everything. This morning, I have seen local products, but also quality products from elsewhere, including Belgian chocolate, Champagne, bull meat, Corsican dry sausage and Asian food.
As Chantal and I end our market tour at the terrace of a cafe, served by a grumpy, redheaded hostess, I realize that we stayed three hours, half of which was spent, it seems, chit-chatting with people Chantal ran into. Friends, neighbors, or coworkers, make le march a social experience.
So I finally get it. The market is more than a marketplace. It is a social, cultural, entertaining activity that is inconvenient, but pleasant. People look, smell and touch the quality. They take the time to interact with others, and slowly get ready for the next activity.
-- Chef Gui Alinat welcomes questions about cooking and will respond to those of general interest in future columns. Sorry, he can't take phone calls or answer individual requests. Send questions to him in care of Taste, St. Petersburg Times, P.O. Box 1121, St. Petersburg, FL 33731, or e-mail him at chefgui@chefgui.com Please include your name and city of residence.