The boats transporting passengers along some of the picturesque waterways of Europe are a far cry from the megaships most people associate with cruises.
By CATHY KEIM
Published September 4, 2005
[Photo: Austrian Tourist Office
Melk Abbey in the province of Lower Austria is just one of the sites travelers can visit while taking a cruise on the Danube.
[Photo: Amadeus Waterways]
The sun sets over the deck of the giant chess set and lounge chairs on the Amadeus Symphony, which cruises along the Danube River.
[Photo: Cathy Keim]
Buildings that are hundreds of years old now house shops and apartments in Regensburg, Germany, one of the ports that the Amadeus Symphony visits.
Getting around Eastern Europe was simple: Go to sleep in Bratislava and wake up in Budapest - still in your hotel room.
A river cruise on the Danube made that possible. These purpose-built boats give passengers opportunities to explore a half-dozen or so charming villages and cities along the scenic journey between Germany and Hungary, while simultaneously providing the transportation, lodging, meals and even sightseeing en route.
And there is no need for the traveler to pack and repack, move from hotel to hotel, or decipher road maps.
Though these river trips are similar to the cruise ships familiar to millions of Caribbean- or Alaska-bound passengers, the differences are significant.
We traveled on the 146-passenger Amadeus Symphony, a four-deck ship owned and operated by Amadeus Waterways. The vessel is tastefully decorated and intimate, unlike massive cruise ships that usually carry from 1,200 to more than 3,000 passengers.
Mealtimes on the Amadeus Symphony managed to be both casual and elegant. There was open seating - no assigned tables - and most of the tables were set for six. The varied menu offered nightly selections ranging from Chateaubriand to local fish, served with European wines poured freely during dinner.
The atmosphere onboard was refined without being stuffy. Unlike cruises that have multiple organized activities and theme nights, there was no pressure on the Symphony guests to take part in "fashion your bed sheet into a toga" events or to assemble for bingo.
There were no ship's photographers waiting to snap your picture at every turn.
Stepping ashore in town
Nor were there Las Vegas-style revues, typical of most big cruise ships. On the river cruise, entertainment consisted of a pianist playing in a comfortable lounge, its floor-to-ceiling windows letting passengers admire the passing landscapes. Occasionally local musicians were brought onboard when the ship docked.
Those ports of call are one of the major benefits of this type of river cruise. On most days, the ship docked within the city center, allowing passengers to step off as if they were walking from their hotel into the city.
Passengers were free to come and go, enjoy meals in the destination and stay ashore well into the evening. Most large cruise ships depart their ports in time for the dinner service onboard.
And a river cruise affords scenic views during the entire trip as you travel the narrow rivers from country to country. The pace is slow enough to let passengers watch the gently changing topography, eye storybook towns and glimpse locals walking or bicycling on riverside paths.
There are no full "days at sea" with no land in sight.
Going ashore in four nations
The land/cruise itinerary we chose started with three days on our own in enchanting Prague. Then we rode a bus to Nuremberg, Germany, to board the Symphony for a weeklong cruise that would end in Budapest, 550 miles to the east.
We traveled through the Rhine-Danube canal, a manmade wonder finished in 1992 that makes river passage possible from the North Sea to the Black Sea. The passengers drank a champagne toast as the Symphony crossed the Continental Divide, climbing to 1,332 feet above sea level through stair-step locks, and then was lowered again.
The scenic highlight was passing through the magnificent Wachau Valley in Austria, with its verdant mountains, picturesque riverside towns, medieval castles and lush vineyards.
On successive days, we docked in Berching and Regensburg, Passau and Linz, Germany; Melk and Vienna, Austria; Bratislava, Slovakia; and Budapest.
We roamed the cobblestone streets of rural villages and bustling cities, admiring the varied and ornate architecture and feeling humbled by the centuries of history and hardship.
We ate in shoreside restaurants and chatted with locals, most of whom spoke at least a little English, and many younger people who speak it fluently. When visitors attempted to speak the local languages, especially Hungarian, we noticed, the efforts were received with appreciative smiles.
Our cruise ticket included city tours, either on foot or by bus, in each country. On one tour we visited the spectacular Benedictine Abbey in Melk, one of Europe's largest baroque monasteries. A side trip took us to picturesque Salzburg, Austria, birthplace and childhood home of Mozart and also where The Sound of Music was filmed.
On the final day of the cruise, most passengers awakened early for the approach to scenic Budapest. The view was breathtaking, for Budapest is decorated on both sides of the river with stunning castles, churches and public buildings.
But arriving in this captivating city was bittersweet, because it signaled the end of a comfortable and enriching journey.
Cathy Keim is a copy editor for the St. Petersburg Times' Business section.
IF YOU GO
A number of companies offer river cruises throughout Europe, Viking and Peter Deilmann among them, but the Amadeus Symphony and its affiliated ships are said to be the newest fleet with the largest cabins.
The Symphony was built in 2003; the Artistry and Poetry are newer.
All of the vessels' cabins face outward and are 160 to 172 feet square. The Symphony's cabins have picture windows, most of which open. the Artistry and Poetry have sliding glass doors with French balconies in most cabins.
The cruises operate May through November. Prices for our cruise start at $2,249 per person, on cruises departing through September, then drop for October and November trips, to as low as $1,549 per person for Nov. 16 departures aboard the Artistry.
Prices rise according to cabin class and with some departure dates. Air fare is not included in the prices noted here.
Booking includes three days in Prague with a city tour, and bus transport to Nuremberg to reach the ship.
FOR MORE INFORMATION: To learn more on departure dates, destinations and prices, contact a travel agent or these companies:
