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Don't leave them hanging
Avocados don't ripen on the tree, so pick them now and put them to use in a flavorful pesto or salsa.
By JANET K. KEELER
Published September 7, 2005
When hurricanes churn ugly and mean in the warm Gulf of Mexico, it is time to pick avocados.
Strange to consider at the same time as boarding windows and choosing evacuation routes, but in a strong wind, heavy avocados can go airborne, knocking someone in the head or smashing windows.
Besides, I don't want to give the squirrels any more reason to hang around.
If you don't have access to free avocados, the price is about $1.25 each now. But hurricane damage to the South Florida crop is likely to cause an increase.
Last summer, between Charley and Jeanne, we lopped our 40-foot Lulu avocado tree at least 15 feet. It suffered the indignity of the crew cut well, and this year is loaded with fruit. Time to start giving them away.
The other reason to glean is that avocados don't ripen on the tree. We learned that the hard way when we left them hanging until February the first year the tree produced. We were so proud of that inaugural crop, but by the time we picked, the fruit was dust. (Yes, fruit. Avocado is a berry, botanically speaking.)
A just-picked avocado ripens in six to nine days, which is a problem if you are hankering for fresh-made guacamole tonight. You'll have to squeeze a lot of avocados at the market to find the ripe ones. Often, they are hard as rocks.
(Ripe avocados should yield to slight pressure. Fruit that is darkly bruised or mushy to the touch is overripe and probably brown inside.)
People say lousy things about Florida avocados. They are watery. They are bereft of flavor. They are a weak cousin to the small-but-mighty California Hass.
That may be true, but the upside is that big Florida avocados are lower in fat and calories because they do contain more water.
Brooks Tropicals in Homestead markets the SlimCado, a Midori-colored avocado that has 50 percent less fat and 35 percent fewer calories than the Hass. Four ounces of SlimCado is 145 calories and 10.5 grams of unsaturated fat.
The creamy, buttery Hass, born in a Southern California back yard, is the king of avocados, but that's not what's in my yard or what is widely grown in Florida. So I'm eating locally and not worrying about what's available on the other West Coast.
Be warned, though: The Florida varieties might make some dishes more runny than you'd like. To compensate, add less than the recipe calls for or keep the fruit in chunks rather than puree.
For instance, in the accompanying Crispy Pork With Avocado Salsa and Tomato Salsa, the avocado melange becomes soupy if three avocados are pureed, as the recipe directs. In my adaptation, puree only one and cube the other two. This gives the salsa heft. Otherwise it runs like a river off the tortilla.
In an unusual recipe, avocado is an amiable undertone in basil pesto. I served the pesto over penne with big curls of Parmesan cheese, but it can also be used as a sauce for grilled fish or chicken.
Guacamole is the most common use for avocado, and there are bushels of recipes for it. You can make your own by adding, to taste, smashed avocado with chopped, seeded tomatoes, minced garlic and onion, chopped jalapeno or serrano chilies and cilantro. Don't forget the lime juice, or the avocado will brown. Season with salt and pepper. Or just cheat and mix in a quarter- to half-cup store-bought chunky salsa to two avocados.
For visual help on how to peel and pit avocados, go to www.sptimes.com/kitchen and scroll to "Avocados: A How-to Guide."
Sometimes it's no fun to be a slave to recipes, so here are some ways to use avocados that require no measuring:
- Sliced or smooshed on sandwiches or burgers.
- Added to a bacon (or shrimp) omelet.
- Mixed with cream cheese or goat cheese for a bagel spread.
- Cut in half and filled with vinaigrette (or chicken or seafood salad).
- Chopped in a green salad.
- Wrapped with prosciutto slices for an appetizer. (Coat with lemon juice to prevent browning.)
- Combined with turkey and hot pepper jack cheese in a quesadilla.
- Stuffed into a taco shell and topped with lime juice, sour cream, shredded cheese, tomato and cilantro.
- Whirred in the blender with olive oil, lime juice, salt and pepper for a salad dressing.
- Diced in slaw with cabbage, lemon juice, tomato and red onion.
You get my point. There are plenty of ways to use avocados, and one really good reason to get them off your tree.
Hurricane season lasts until Nov. 30.
Janet K. Keeler can be reached at 727 893-8586 or krieta@sptimes.com
Avocado Pesto
1 medium avocado, peeled, halved
1 cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves
1/2 cup (or more) canned chicken broth
4 large garlic cloves
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1/2 cup olive oil
Place avocado, basil, 1/2 cup broth, garlic and lime juice in blender. Blend until chopped, scraping down sides as needed. With machine running, gradually add oil and blend until smooth. If too thick, gradually add more broth by tablespoons. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made 1 day ahead; chill.)
Serving suggestions: Over penne with curls of Parmesan cheese or as a sauce for grilled chicken or fish.
Makes about 2 cups.
Source: Bon Appetit magazine.
Crispy Pork With Avocado Salsa and Tomato Salsa
4 pounds boneless country-style pork ribs
2 cups (or more) water
1 1/2 cups fresh orange juice
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
6 garlic cloves, peeled and slightly smashed
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/4 cup brandy
Warm corn tortillas
Avocado Salsa (see recipe)
Fresh tomato salsa (store-bought; see note)
Cut pork pieces crosswise into thirds. Combine pork, 2 cups water, orange juice, orange zest, garlic and salt in deep 12-inch skillet or dutch oven. Bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until pork is tender, stirring occasionally, about 1 hour 45 minutes, adding more water by 1/4 cupfuls if necessary to keep pork partially submerged.
Uncover; boil pork mixture until liquid is reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Stir in brandy; boil until liquid evaporates and meat browns and begins to get crisp, stirring often, about 15 minutes.
Cool meat slightly. Tear meat into strips; return to skillet. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.)
Add 2 tablespoons water to skillet. Cover and rewarm pork over medium-low heat, stirring, about 5 minutes. Season with more salt, if desired. Transfer to bowl.
Serve with warm tortillas, avocado salsa and tomato salsa.
Makes 8 servings.
* A chunky, fresh tomato, refrigerated salsa is best for this recipe.
Source: Bon Appetit magazine.
Avocado Salsa
8 ounces fresh tomatillos, husked, rinsed, coarsely chopped
2 serrano chilies, seeded, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped white onion
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
3 large ripe avocados, halved, pitted, peeled
Combine tomatillos, chilies, onion, cilantro and one coarsely chopped avocado in processor. Using on/off turns, process until chunky puree forms. Transfer to a medium bowl. Chop remaining avocado in 1/2-inch cubes and add, stirring thoroughly to coat all avocado pieces. Season with salt.
(Can be made 4 hours ahead. Press plastic wrap directly onto surface of salsa and chill.)
Makes about 2 3/4 cups.
Source: Adapted from Bon Appetit magazine.
[Last modified September 6, 2005, 10:10:57]
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