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Season envy

It's difficult not to care what they are eating up north when signs of fall are everywhere. Except in the local forecast.

By JANET K. KEELER
Published September 14, 2005

	[Times illustration: Teresanne Cossetta]

The food magazines are the first to taunt us in the dog dogs of a long Florida summer.

From newsstands and in mailboxes, the covers tease with photos of pumpkins and other winter squashes, reminding us that sweaters are in the forecast - somewhere. Splashes of amber, sienna and terra cotta, in napkins and type, make us long for something we used to experience, or only imagine: fall.

It officially starts Sept. 22, but that's not much more than a date on the calendar to Floridians who know hot and humid weather lasts well beyond Halloween.

We are so not in the mood for comforting stews and rib-sticking casseroles. And we are so over salads with grilled chicken or fish.

But we have to eat, and the key to getting through the last half of summer is to change the menu, introducing new flavors and colors while staying away from the oven. Plus, it helps to remember that January-February-March are gloriously free of gloomy skies here; not so much there.

Some ideas for eating cool when it is still hot, keeping in mind that rotisserie chicken never seems to bore anyone:

Think appetizers: When the temperatures are hot, it's better to eat light, so why not serve hors d'oeuvres for dinner? Wrap slices of juicy melon, honeydew or cantaloupe with thinly sliced prosciutto. Smear cocktail bread with cream cheese, flavored or not, and top with cold, smoked salmon; add capers or thinly sliced red onion. Dip cold shrimp in cocktail sauce. Serve a variety of cheese with crackers, grapes and nuts.

Canned beans: From garbanzo to kidney to cannellini, beans are a great protein and fiber source on which to base a meal. Remember to drain and rinse them, though, to rinse away salt. Try the classic Italian white bean and tuna salad, drizzled with an olive oil vinaigrette and lemon squirts. Add vegetables of choice. Mix garbanzo beans with olive oil, garlic, chopped basil and feta cheese for a flavorful, hearty side dish to grilled meat. Make a bean dip with almost the same ingredients, but puree and serve with veggie sticks.

Sandwiches: Put the turkey and provolone or ham and Swiss on hold for a while and consider new breads and filling that will make lunch-time fare good enough for dinner. The eggplant spread caponata, which is usually found in the pickle-olive aisle, is delicious spread on crusty french bread and topped with feta or goat cheese.

Buy roasted red peppers and use them in a sandwich with fontini or havarti cheese and pepperoncini. Don't forget store-bought cole slaw, and other veggies, on a roast beef sandwich. Beyond wheat bread, there are bagels, croissants and a variety of rolls.

Between tortillas: Quesadillas require minimal heat, and there are many combinations to turn mild tortillas into something special. Consider goat cheese and pears; scallions, mushrooms and jack cheese; shrimp, avocado and queso fresco. Plus, there is always the traditional refried beans and cheese quesadilla.

Salad, hold the greens: Wild rice, pasta, beans, cabbage and other vegetables can take the place of salad greens. To wild rice, add fresh herbs, nuts and halved grapes, then dress with a fruity vinaigrette. Pasta salads can include all manner of chopped veggies, from fennel to corn. Cheese-filled tortellini adds flavor and protein. Canned seafood or chicken are also good additions. (See accompanying recipes.)

If only we had a version of Groundhog Day, where maybe a manatee sees its shadow in the shallow water and can tell us how much more summer we must endure.

Then we'd know when to fire up the stew pot.

- Janet K. Keeler can be reached at 727 893-8586 or krieta@sptimes.com

11/2 cups cooked brown rice

1 cup sultanas or raisins

1 cup roasted almonds

1/2 cup chopped red and yellow peppers

1/2 cup chopped onion

1/2 cup corn

Dressing

1/2 cup vegetable oil

Juice of 1 large lemon

2 tablespoons fruit chutney

1 teaspoon curry powder

Salt and pepper to taste

Mix all salad ingredients.

To make dressing, place all ingredients in a container with a well-fitting top and shake until emulsified. Pour over salad and let sit for 30 minutes at room temperature before serving. Serves 4.

Source: Adapted from www.interlog.com

2 6-ounce jars marinated artichoke hearts, drained, chopped

1/2 cup chopped drained oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 cup chopped fresh basil

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 5-inch-diameter or 6-inch-long Italian rolls, split in half lengthwise

12 ounces fresh water-packed mozzarella, drained, sliced

6 ounces salami, thinly sliced

8 tablespoons green olivada (or chopped green and black olives)

Mix first 5 ingredients in medium bowl to blend. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide artichoke mixture among bottom halves of rolls. Top with cheese, then salami. Spread top half of each roll with 2 tablespoons olivada. Place atop salami. Press sandwiches lightly to compact and wrap each tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate sandwiches at least 4 hours and up to 1 day.

Makes 4.

Source: Bon Appetit magazine.

11/2 cups (packed) grated Monterey Jack cheese (about 6 ounces)

2 ounces cream cheese, room temperature

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons orange juice

2 teaspoons grated orange peel

1 teaspoon grated lemon peel

8 ounces crabmeat, drained

1 cup chopped seeded plum tomatoes

3/8 cup chopped green onions

1 tablespoon minced seeded jalapeno

8 7- to 8-inch flour tortillas

About 5 tablespoons vegetable oil (see note)

Mix first 6 ingredients in medium bowl to blend. Season cheese mixture to taste with salt and pepper. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to room temperature before continuing.)

Mix crabmeat, tomatoes, green onions and chili in large bowl. Spread cheese mixture over half of each tortilla. Spoon crabmeat mixture atop cheese mixture, dividing equally. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Fold tortillas in half. Press gently to seal.

Heat 11/2 tablespoons oil in each of 2 heavy large skillets over medium heat. Working in batches, cook quesadillas in skillets until cheese melts and tortillas are golden brown, adding more oil as needed, about 3 minutes per side. Cut quesadillas into wedges and serve. Serves 4.

* To cut calories and fat, use nonstick vegetable spray instead of oil.

Source: Bon Appetit magazine.

[Last modified September 13, 2005, 09:02:05]