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Kick the can

Whisk up something fresh for the casserole, that dinnertime staple. An easy and delicious homemade sauce outclasses the usual creamed can du jour.

By JANET K. KEELER
Published October 19, 2005

	[Times photo: Patty Yablonski]
	Pimiento-stuffed olives are a zingy addition to King Ranch Casserole, a Texas favorite that’s big on flavor.

The good old American casserole is synonymous with one ingredient: canned cream of something soup.

We won't go so far as to call the casserole trashy, but these days it does have a certain low-brow reputation. Chalk up the bad rap to the canned condensed soup, most often cream of mushroom or celery, that binds carbohydrates (pasta, rice, crackers) and protein (chicken, cheese).

I made one of those guilty delights recently and to add salt to sodium, used a box of Stove Top herb stuffing, plus cans of cream of chicken and celery soup. The 10-year-old dove in but I knew there had to be a more delicious and nutritious covered dish out there.

There is, and the key is being choosy about convenience ingredients. I'm the last to suggest plucking your own chicken, but I also know that an entire casserole made from bags opened by scissors may not taste much better than cardboard.

In a pinch, rotisserie chickens lend more flavor than precooked chicken squares or strips. Grated cheese in the bag is okay if you want standard cheddar or mozzarella. Splurge on good Parmesan and grate it yourself. I use chicken stock in a box though I know some swear by homemade.

When it comes to the sauce though, forget the soup and do some old-fashioned cooking. That means making a white sauce from unsalted butter, flour and milk. Get fancy and call it bechamel (BAY-shah-mel), one of the five French "mother sauces." Velvety bechamel is the basis for macaroni and cheese, turkey tetrazzini and Greek moussaka, among other baked dishes.

(The other mother sauces are veloute, espagnole, hollandaise/mayonnaise and vinaigrette.)

Making a white sauce is easy. Melt butter in a saucepan and add an almost equal amount of flour. (Recipes specify amounts, depending on how much sauce is needed.) Whisk butter and flour together until the powder disappears and a paste forms. Cook the mixture for a minute or two. You've made a roux.

Pour in heated milk in a steady stream, whisking continuously until lumps disappear. Add salt and pepper to taste. In 10 minutes, over medium heat, you'll have a lush sauce that can be used in various ways.

(For macaroni and cheese, this is where you dump in the grated cheese.)

Traditionally, casseroles have not been company fare because of their homey, communal nature. Plus, they just scream leftovers.

But since scratch cooking has spiraled into half-scratch assembly, most dinner guests recognize the effort that goes into a homespun casserole. Do not be afraid to serve one, even if you have to announce that it took a couple hours to make. Add a green salad and hearty bread to mop the drippings and you've wrought a delicious meal.

Bechamel took on different personalities in three baked dishes I tried: pastitsio, King Ranch casserole and wild mushroom lasagna. Nutmeg sweetened the sauce and eggs made it more substantial when baked in pastitsio, sometimes called Greek macaroni and cheese. Chili powder turned the white sauce an orange-red for King Ranch casserole, a Texas dish that crosses Mexican lasagna with chicken a la king.

Garlic-tinged bechamel draped an earthy mushroom lasagna that was more about mushrooms and pasta than the usual cheesy overdose.

One sauce, three applications. I would recommend each dish for your repertoire.

Pastitsio (pah-STEE-tsee-oh) is a brawny construction of tube pasta (commonly penne), browned ground meat flavored with oregano, cinnamon and tomato, Parmesan cheese and the nutmeg-laced sauce. It's a regular offering at Greek holiday dinners and family gatherings.

The recipe that accompanies this story, from the new Mom's Best One-Dish Suppers by Andrea Chesman (Storey Publishing; $10.95), is difficult only in that there are a number of steps. The sauce and the filling can be made in advance, or the dish assembled and stashed in the fridge until you are ready to cook it.

Rather than refrigerate it uncooked, I prefer to bake it right away, then let it sit for a couple hours covered with aluminum foil. The melange stays hot and the flavors meld deliciously. (Most casseroles freeze well after they are baked and cooled.)

Chesman's King Ranch casserole is an interesting twist on the Tex-Mex favorite. She suggests the unusual addition of chopped pimiento-stuffed olives. I used 1/4 cup when the recipe called for twice that amount. That was enough tang for my taste.

King Ranch, with corn tortillas as the architectural foundation, is kid-friendly and can be adapted to a family's tastes. Leave the mushrooms out; dice red and green pepper small rather than julienne as Chesman suggests.

Wild mushroom lasagna is an adult treat that showcases luxurious bechamel. If you tried the version from the February Gourmet and were disappointed, try my adaptation. Gourmet's recipe calls for 1 ounce of dried porcini mushrooms, reconstituted in boiling water. That's not nearly enough to hold up three layers of lasagna.

I doubled the porcinis, plus sauteed a four-ounce gourmet blend of fresh mushrooms and another four ounces of sliced baby bellas. (The accompanying recipe reflects the changes.) I also changed the basil to woodsy thyme which paired well with mushrooms. The basil was too lightweight.

There was a lot of tinkering on this recipe, but the results are worth it.

Of all three recipes, the mushroom lasagna shows off the gentle bechamel most. Make sure to cover the top layer of noodles completely with sauce, otherwise they become dry and tough.

The three dishes remind me of how food tastes when it is handcrafted and not simply assembled and heated. And all of them made without cream of something in a can.

- Janet K. Keeler can be reached at 727 893-8586 or krieta@sptimes.com

Pastitsio

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 medium onions, finely chopped

2 pounds ground beef or lamb (or a mixture)

1 8-ounce can unseasoned tomato sauce

1 6-ounce can tomato paste

1 cup water

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

Pinch sugar, or to taste

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 pound tube-shaped pasta, such as penne

For sauce:

3 tablespoons butter

1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

31/2 cups milk

3 eggs, beaten

Freshly grated nutmeg

11/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan

Begin heating a large pot of salted water for the pasta.

Heat the oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Saute the onions in the oil until limp, about 3 minutes. Add the meat and saute until browned, 8 to 10 minutes, crumbling the meat as it cooks.

Stir in the tomato sauce and paste, water, cinnamon and oregano. Season to taste with salt, pepper and sugar. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer. Cook the pasta in the boiling water until just al dente. Drain.

To make the white sauce: Melt the butter over medium heat in a small saucepan. Stir in the flour to make a smooth paste. Cook for about 1 minute. Stir in the milk, a little at a time, until the milk has been added and the sauce is smooth. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce is thick and smooth.

Beat the eggs in a small bowl. Add 1/2 cup of the hot white sauce, 1 tablespoon at a time, to warm the eggs. Stir the warmed egg mixture into the white sauce and remove from the heat. Season to taste with salt, pepper and a grating of fresh nutmeg.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly oil a 9- by 13-inch pan.

To assemble the Casserole: layer half the pasta in the baking pan. Top with half the sauce, then half the Parmesan. Layer the remaining pasta, sauce and cheese on top. Pour the white sauce over all.

Bake uncovered for about 40 minutes, or until hot and lightly browned. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.

Serves 8 to 10.

Nutritional information per serving (10): 535 calories, 22g fat (10g saturated), 35g protein, 47g carbohydrates, 2g fiber, 565mg sodium.

Source: "Mom's Best One-Dish Suppers" by Andrea Chesman (Storey Publishing, $10.95).

For bechamel sauce:

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

31/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

31/2 cups low-fat milk, heated

2 garlic cloves, smashed

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

For mushroom tomato sauce:

2 cups boiling-hot water

2 ounces dried porcini mushrooms

1 cup chopped onion (1 medium)

8 ounces mixed fresh mushrooms (portobellos, shiitake, oyster, baby bellas), chopped

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 (14- to 15-ounce) cans diced tomatoes in juice

Pinch of sugar

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

1 teaspoon salt

For assembling lasagna:

12 long ruffle-edged dried lasagna noodles

5 ounces (13/4 cups) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

To make bechamel: Heat butter in a 2-quart heavy saucepan over moderately low heat until melted, then add flour and cook roux over low heat, whisking, 3 minutes. Add hot milk in a fast stream, whisking vigorously, and whisk in garlic and salt. Bring to a boil, whisking. Reduce heat and simmer, whisking occasionally, 10 minutes. Add pepper.

To make mushroom tomato sauce: Pour boiling-hot water over porcini in a bowl and let stand until softened, about 20 minutes. Lift out porcini, squeezing excess liquid back into bowl, then rinse to remove any grit. Pour soaking liquid through a sieve lined with a dampened paper towel into another bowl. Chop porcini and add to soaking liquid.

Cook onion and fresh mushrooms in oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened and liquid has evaporated, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in tomatoes with juice, sugar, porcini with soaking liquid and thyme. Simmer, stirring frequently, until tomatoes have broken down into a chunky sauce and most liquid has evaporated, about 25 minutes. Stir in salt.

To assemble and bake lasagna: Cook noodles in a 6- to 8-quart pot of boiling salted water 8 minutes (noodles will not be cooked through), then drain. Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Spread 1 cup bechamel on bottom of a greased 13- by 9-inch baking dish, reserving remainder for last layer. Arrange three lasagna noodles over bechamel in baking dish. Layer one third of mushroom filling and cheese. Repeat layering of pasta, mushroom tomato sauce, and cheese twice, then cover with last noodles. Spread remaining bechamel on top, making sure to cover all noodles, and sprinkle with remaining cheese. Bake, uncovered, until lasagna is bubbling and top is browned, 30 to 35 minutes. Let stand at room temperature at least 15 minutes before cutting.

* Bechamel and mushroom tomato sauces can be made two days ahead and cooled, uncovered, then chilled separately, covered. Bring sauces to room temperature before using. Also, you can assemble lasagna 1 day ahead and chill, covered. Bring to room temperature before baking.

Makes 12 first-course or 10 main course servings.

Nutritional information per serving (10): 353 calories, 14g fat (7g saturated), 17g protein, 40g carbohydrates, 2g fiber, 716mg sodium.

Source: Adapted from "Gourmet" magazine, February 2005.

3/4 pound lamb, cut into 3/4-inch cubes

All-purpose flour, for dusting

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 teaspoons crushed garlic

1 cup chopped onion

1 cup finely chopped carrots

1/2 cup finely chopped sweet green pepper

1 cup cubed, peeled sweet potatoes

11/2 cups sliced mushrooms

21/2 cups beef stock

1/3 cup red wine

3 tablespoons tomato paste

2 teaspoons curry powder

Dust lamb with flour.

In a large nonstick Dutch oven, heat oil, saute lamb for 2 minutes or just until seared all over. Remove lamb and set aside.

To pan, add garlic, onion, carrots, green pepper and sweet potatoes; cook, stirring often for 8 to 10 minutes or until tender.

Add mushrooms and cook until softened, about 3 minutes.

Add stock, wine, tomato paste and curry powder. Return lamb to pan; cover and simmer for 11/2 hours, stirring occasionally.

Makes 4 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 310 calories, 32g carbohydrates, 5g fiber, 23g protein, 9g total fat (2g saturated), 783mg sodium, 61 cholesterol.

Source: "America's Complete Diabetes Cookbook" (Robert Rose Inc., $19.95).

King Ranch Casserole

For sauce:

6 tablespoons butter

2 cloves garlic

2 teaspoons chili powder

6 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour

2 cups low-sodium chicken broth

1 cup milk

1/2 cup sour cream

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Filling:

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 red bell pepper, julienned

1 green bell pepper, julienned

1 small onion, sliced

2 to 4 fresh or canned green chilies, seeded (optional) and sliced

4 ounces mushrooms, sliced

4 cups chopped or shredded cooked chicken

1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Oil, for frying (optional)

18 corn tortillas

8 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, grated

1/2 cup chopped pimiento-stuffed green olives

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease a 9- by 13-inch dish.

To make the sauce: Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Saute the garlic and chili powder in the butter until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the flour until you have a smooth paste. Cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Stir in the broth, then the milk, stirring until the mixture is smooth and thick, Remove from the heat and stir in the sour cream. Season to taste with the salt and pepper.

To make the filling: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Saute the bell peppers, onion, chilies and mushrooms until the mushrooms give up their juice, about 8 minutes. Stir in the chicken and tomatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper and remove from the heat.

Heat 1/2 inch of oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Holding the tortillas with tongs, dip them one by one into the oil just long enough to soften, 10 to 15 seconds. Drain on paper towels. (This step is optional, but it improves the flavor and texture of the finished dish).

To assemble: Arrange six tortillas in the prepared baking dish. Cover with half the chicken mixture, 1/3 of the sauce, and 1/3 of the cheese. Scatter half the olives over the cheese. Repeat the layer with tortillas, chicken, sauce, cheese and olives. Finish with six more tortillas, the remaining sauce, and remaining cheese. Bake for about 30 minutes, until browned and bubbly. Let sit for 5 minutes, then serve. Serves 8.

Nutritional information per serving (8): 605 calories, 34g fat (15g saturated), 30g protein, 44g carbohydrates, 3g fiber, 703mg sodium.

- Source: "Mom's Best One-Dish Suppers" by Andrea Chesman (Storey Publishing, $10.95).

[Last modified October 19, 2005, 11:28:27]