Iceland has everything for your next family vacation: Volcanic terrain, the possibility of earthquakes, deserts, a lack of trees, summer temperatures in the 50s with rain. Of course, there are also glacial lakes and mountains covering 80 percent of the land, geysers, canyons, waterfalls, horseback treks . . .
After two weeks there this summer, my wife, our two teenagers and I agreed that no place we'd been to as a family was more exotic, spellbinding - and natural. It doesn't have Italy's warmth, France's food, or the fun of Walt Disney World, but it has . . . it has . . . hmmm, what does it have? Why did we go?
As members of Intervac, a house-exchange agency, we had been contacted by a half-dozen families wanting to come to our home in Cambridge, Mass. Our dollar has been taking a whupping from the Kroner, and Icelanders are eager to shop for bargains.
We also wanted to convince our children - Madeline is 18 and Nick is 15 - to leave their friends and instead hang out with their bickering, self-centered parents. I felt that going to a new locale would distract them.
My strategy worked. Within 24 hours, Nick termed Iceland "sick," which he says is the same as "lovely."
After landing at the international airport that is about 45 minutes from the capital, Reykjavik, we drove seven hours northeast to Jokulsargljufur National Park. There, we had rented a farmhouse for three nights.
Each day we took long, easy hikes on the land created by lava flows. We saw spectacular canyons, deserts and Dettifoss, a powerful waterfall.
When we weren't hiking, we rode Icelandic horses, which are the size of ponies. They had been brought to the island about 1,100 years ago by Norse settlers and their Celtic slaves. Gentle and curious, the horses provided us an ideal perspective for viewing the landscape.
A week later we drove to Landmannalaugar, which is a base camp for mountain hiking. Though only about 2,500 feet above sea level, we were able to see vast distances and rounded hills in shades of pale blue, gold, tan, brown, orange, red and green.
We walked by geysers, plumes of smoke, snowy fields and pools of boiling water. It was simultaneously devilish and heavenly.
"This looks like Mordor," Madeline said. "But also like the moon."
No wonder: The ancient Icelandic sagas reportedly inspired J.R.R. Tolkien for his Lord of the Rings.
Living in an environment so stark and dramatic has had a remarkable impact on the 266,000 Icelanders. They are quirky, proud, independent and fun-loving.
Whether hiking or clubbing, their adventurous, can-do spirit makes the place lively.
Almost half the population lives in the capital, and on Friday and Saturday nights, we joined residents to drink coffee in mellow little shops and dance in all-night clubs - where the atmosphere called to mind a high school dance.
We also dined on the national dish, a terrific steamed hot dog served with two kinds of mustard, fried with raw onions, and served with a remoulade sauce. The best stand we found is Baejarins Bestu, which is near the harbor and easy to find because a line stretches here 24 hours a day. The price caught ou attentions: $5 for a dog and a Coke.
Other worthy foods are delicious salmon, cod and the free-range organic lamb.
If it wasn't for the incredible cost of things, Iceland would be perfect. We failed to anticipate these prices.
A gallon of gas was about $7, groceries lasting us two days were $90, a six-pack of beer was $18, a movie ticket $12, a hotel room about $300 per night.
We ate in a KFC: four chicken sandwiches, drinks and fries for $60.
A meal in a typical restaurant had appetizers priced between $20-$25 and entrees between $40-$60.
Next time we're taking food from home. Icelanders told me that restaurants are reserved for special occasions; generally, people live frugally.
We did find that living like a local cut costs. The Blue Lagoon, a top tourist attraction, is a hot pool in the middle of a lava field. It's worth visiting, but it cost the four of us about $70 (plus the price of towel rentals).
We did better by going to one of the many municipal pools and hot tubs, for about $3 a person.
Maybe one day Iceland will be affordable. But now it's best to enjoy the 4 H's: hiking, horses, hot springs and hot dogs.
- Scott Haas, author of "Are We There Yet?," a humor book about family travel, lives in Cambridge, Mass. Madeline Haas is a freelance journalist.
IF YOU GO
When I got home, I tried to figure out why Iceland is so expensive. Here's what I discovered: About two years ago, Iceland's banks were privatized. Landsbanki, the largest bank, is majority stockholder (33 percent) in Icelandair, the only airline, which in turn owns most major hotels and many restaurants.
Most Icelanders speak and understand English. Icelandic, a variant of ancient Norse, is virtually incomprehensible to outsiders, but if you speak Dutch, German or another Scandinavian language you ought to be able to understand signage and a few common phrases.
Generally, the residents are friendly and, like many islanders all over the world, relatively curious and open with visitors.
GETTING THERE: Using various U.S. carriers to connect with Icelandair's gateways such as Baltimore, Washington, Boston and New York, there is one-stop service from Tampa Bay.
Icelandair also offers hotel packages that include day tours, and even weekend packages. Go to www.icelandair.com or toll-free 1-800-223-5500.
WHEN TO GO: June through August is the best time: The daylight lasts at least 22 hours.
December, especially around Christmas, is said to be nice because the locals set off lots of fireworks and the dance clubs run at full tilt. Then again, there are only a few hours of daylight in the winter.
Mid February is good because Iceland has a "Food and Fun" event that is more or less the pre-Lent Carnival.
ON THE GROUND: You can change dollars into the mighty Kroner at the airport or use ATM machines found throughout the country. Visa and MasterCard are accepted just about everywhere.
You need courage to drive in Iceland. The Ring Road around the island is two lanes. Weather conditions can be hazardous: sudden snow squalls, torrential rain, dense fog. Many roads off the Ring Road are either dirt or gravel; when renting a car, you are instructed not to drive on most of these roads.
Horseback riding is a must. Dozens of stables can be found and for about $25 an hour per rider, you can be a North Atlantic cowboy.
STAYING THERE: Because we belong to a home-exchange agency, we had the option of trading time in our house with Icelanders who wanted to visit the United States but because of the length of our stay, we opted for other accommodations.
There are many home-exchange agencies. The one we have used for more than 15 years is Intervac: www.intervac.com or toll-free 1-800-756-4663. You pay an annual fee to belong, but members negotiate directly with each other for trading time in their homes.
A terrific way to enjoy Iceland is to stay on a farm; which we arranged by going to www.farmholidays.is Prices posted on the Web site vary depending on the level of comfort and whether you will have meals with the farm family or will be cooking for yourself. There are many farms available, spread all over the island.
EATING THERE: Dining out in Iceland is a surefire way to go into heavy debt. But if you've hit the lottery, try Vox (Suurlandsbraut 2, 354 444 5000) or 3 Frakkar (Baldursgata 14, 354 552 3939). Terrific vegetarian restaurants are Grnn Kostur (Sklavrdustgur 8b, 354 552 2028) and Tveir Fiskar(Hafnarbir/Geirsgata 354 511 3474).
Otherwise, buy sandwiches and hot dogs: Bjarins Bestu 354 894 4515.
