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The little oven that could

Compact yet powerful, a toaster oven can warm your bagel or prepare a sophisticated entree.

By KAREN PRYSLOPSKI and TOM VALEO
Published November 9, 2005

	[Times photo: Patty Yablonski]
	Toaster ovens can be quicker and easier to use than conventional ovens.

We love our toaster oven. We get along just fine without a food processor or a slow cooker or an automatic coffeemaker. We have no desire for a bread machine or a juicer.

But without our toaster oven, life as we know it (in the kitchen, at least) would change drastically. It wasn't always so. We used to think toaster ovens were for people who lived in tiny apartments, where saving space (and money) were crucial. After all, toaster ovens require only one-half to two-thirds the energy of a conventional oven.

When we moved into our house nearly two years ago, however, the oven didn't work, so we turned to a toaster oven to tide us over. We quickly discovered that in addition to toasting bread, English muffins and bagels perfectly, the toaster oven could do almost everything you'd expect from a full-sized oven.

With a six-cup muffin pan we can make jumbo muffins, and on the baking tray that came with it we can make scones. The broiler melts cheese over just about anything, and almost every sandwich tastes better after a few minutes on warm.

We use it to bake potatoes, roast vegetables and broil fish.

The toaster oven not only bakes cookies, it helps us control our consumption of them. If we make cookie dough, shape it into cookies and throw them in the freezer, we can take out just a few, thaw them, and pop them in the toaster oven (which heats up in five minutes or less). We get to eat the cookies warm, and we have to stop when they're gone (unless it's a really bad day and we start eating the frozen dough).

We've made Bundt cakes in the toaster oven too - miniature ones, of course, but just as delicious. We also use it for toasting pine nuts, walnuts and pecans. What about Thanksgiving?

Okay, you can't fit an entire turkey in the toaster oven, but you can roast a turkey breast and use the leftovers to make a pot pie. You can bake dressing and roast squash. You can even make miniature pumpkin pies.

We have a regular oven now, but the truth is, we seldom use it. The toaster oven is quicker and easier most of the time.

There's nothing special about the toaster oven we use. It cost less than $30, and works just fine. Lynn Alley, author of The Gourmet Toaster Oven, recommends spending more to get features you want, such as a removable crumb tray, a nonstick interior, a timer, a cool-touch exterior and a good warranty.

"Chances are the amount of pleasure, use and convenience you'll get out of it won't be worth the money you will save by not buying a quality piece of merchandise," Alley writes in the introduction.

You also may want to invest in a toaster oven with a convection feature, which speeds cooking by circulating hot air. We decided against it since a convection toaster oven doesn't really save much time, and we don't mind waiting a few extra minutes, but it's up to you.

Just make sure you'll actually use the bells and whistles you pay for.

In the end, all toaster ovens do the same thing - they toast, bake and broil. And as we've discovered, they do all three quite well.

- Karen Pryslopski is a St. Petersburg Times photo editor. Tom Valeo is a freelance writer based in St. Petersburg.

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/3 cup brown sugar

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 egg

2 tablespoons oil

1/4 cup buttermilk

3/4 cup grated carrot

1/4 cup crushed pineapple, well-drained

1/4 cup unsweetened shredded coconut

1/2 cup coarsely chopped nuts

1/4 cup currants

Lemon glaze:

1 cup powdered sugar

3 tablespoons lemon juice

Zest from 1 lemon

2 tablespoons chopped toasted walnuts or almond slices, for garnish

Preheat the toaster oven to 325 degrees.

To make the carrot cake, mix the flour, sugar, baking soda and cinnamon in a large mixing bowl. In a separate small bowl, whisk together the egg, oil and buttermilk.

Blend the liquid ingredients into the dry and stir just until mixed. Add the carrot, pineapple, coconut, nuts and currants and stir just until mixed in.

Divide the batter among 4 mini Bundt cake pans (or similar individual-size pans). Bake for 20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the cake comes out clean.

Make the lemon glaze while the cakes are baking. Mix the powdered sugar, lemon juice and lemon zest together in a small bowl. Cover a cake rack with a tea towel or foil. When the cakes have finished baking, remove them from the toasteroven and allow them to cool in their pans. When they have cooled, pop them out of the pans and set them on the prepared rack. Drizzle the glaze evenly over the cakes.

Allow the glaze to harden, about 5 minutes, then serve topped with the walnuts. Serves 4.

Source: "The Gourmet Toaster Oven" by Lynn Alley (Ten Speed Press, $18.95).

Basil-garlic butter:

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, at room temperature

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

2 cloves garlic, pressed

Salmon:

2 (4-ounce) fillets fresh salmon

Coarse salt

2 fresh lemon wedges for garnish

To make the basil-garlic butter, blend the butter, basil and garlic in a bowl with a fork until thoroughly mixed. Refrigerate for several hours or overnight before using.

About 5 minutes before you are ready to prepare the fish, preheat the toaster oven to broil. For easy cleanup, line the toaster oven baking tray with aluminum foil. (Check your manufacturer's instructions, however, for any cautions against the use of aluminum foil in your toaster oven.)

To prepare the salmon, lay the fish on the prepared tray and sprinkle with coarse salt. Place the salmon under the broiler and cook for about 8 minutes on each side, until the fish turns opaque orange. (The cooking time may vary depending upon the thickness of your fish.)

Remove the salmon from the toaster oven, transfer to a plate, and top it with a generous dab of the basil-garlic butter. The leftover basil butter can be stored in the refrigerator or freezer. Serve with lemon wedges.

Any extra butter can be stored in the refrigerator for later use on pasta or grilled fish or meats. Serves 2.

Source: "The Gourmet Toaster Oven" by Lynn Alley (Ten Speed Press, $18.95).

10 ounces fresh asparagus, ends trimmed

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Coarse salt

Preheat the toaster oven to 375 degrees.

Toss the asparagus with the olive oil and vinegar in an oval baking dish and sprinkle with coarse salt. Bake for about 20 minutes, until the asparagus spears are tender.Serve hot as a side dish, or cold in a salad. Serves 2.

Source: "The Gourmet Toaster Oven" by Lynn Alley (Ten Speed Press, $18.95).

[Last modified November 8, 2005, 11:14:06]