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Famed steakhouse will claim ground for finer dining

By ERNEST HOOPER
Published December 2, 2005

With the opening of Sam Seltzer's Steakhouse at Westfield Brandon this week, a new trend may be rising on the local restaurant landscape.

Upscale dining.

Places like Seltzer's and Bonefish Grill, which came to Brandon in 2002, are known in the industry as upscale casual because their pricing points are slightly below top-dollar steakhouses and cafes, but above casual outlets. Chianti Restaurante, a month-old Italian restaurant on East Brandon Boulevard, also would fall into that category.

If you're looking to spend big on a special evening in Brandon, they are about as close as you're going to come to famed Tampa establishments like Bern's, Mise En Place, Donatello's or Armani's.

What does it say about our area that upscale places are few and far between?

And can Sam Seltzer's succeed in a community more accustomed to buffet-line eating and fern-filled restaurants?

"We feel that we needed to move out to that location," said JoAnne Pfister, marketing director for Sam Seltzer's. "We did several market studies that shows the area is fast growing, and we want to grow along with it."

Sheer numbers, however, have not translated to instant success for fancier restaurants. If Seltzer's makes it, it will be bucking past trends. For years, places with soft lighting, lavish menus and linen tablecloths have come and gone.

Anybody remember Armand's? Jordan's Porterhouse? La Taberna? Jeff Reynolds, past chairman of the Greater Brandon Chamber of Commerce, said even now it may be too soon for a true upscale place to succeed in this area.

"I think it would have to be properly located and properly aligned with the demographics and the socioeconomics of the area," said Reynolds, who once worked in the restaurant industry. "You could not put a Capital Grill in the Brandon mall and expect it to work. I still think you're going to need a little more time."

The Sam Seltzer's brand and the choice mall location will go a long way in helping it succeed. The chain already has a successful location at a mall in Port Richey, and restaurants are thriving in malls like never before. Just look at WestShore Plaza (Maggiano's, P.F. Chang's, the Palm) or International Plaza (Cheesecake Factory, Capital Grill, Bamboo Club).

Plus, Sam Seltzer's can bank on the fact that chains rule out here. Brandon restaurants often rank among the highest producers with national and regional chains. Reynolds said the financial backing of the parent companies allows chain restaurants to do things independents can't do.

"Chain restaurants have been successful because they can advertise to the masses, because they're a known quantity and because they can provide a very good dining experience at a fair price point," Reynolds said. "People see new independents and think, "What's that? Ever tried it? No, I'll wait for somebody else go go and tell me about it.' "

The dominance of chains may be one of the biggest reasons we haven't seen a successful independent, upscale restaurant catch on in the area.

Dave Chapdelaine is the co-owner of the independent 220 East restaurant on Davis Islands. You wouldn't define his place as upscale, but it does feature a varied menu and an extensive wine list. The restaurant, in its eighth year, had a 22 percent increase in November business compared to November of 2004.

"Obviously, I'm delivering something someone wants, but it didn't translate to Brandon," Chapdelaine said.

Chapdelaine came to Brandon in April 2003 and operated 902 East near Wal-Mart on Brandon Boulevard for 19 months before closing down in January.

Statistical data from a research study Chapdelaine commissioned after opening the restaurant indicated some of the difficulties independents face in Brandon. The study concluded that people in Tampa eat out an average of 31/2 times a week, while people in the Brandon area eat out an average of 11/2 times a week.

Working-class families looking to feed the kids can't splurge, and Brandon is largely working-class families. One night after a Brandon Cowboys football practice, my sons and I went to Publix to get dinner - and half the team was there doing the same thing.

The research also reflected the popularity of chains.

"That being said, I still think a place can make it out there," Chapdelaine said. "It didn't work out as well as I wanted to, but I still think if somebody puts the effort into it, puts out a good quality product at a fair price and on a consistent basis, they can make it."

One sign of encouragement is the changing demographics. It's still largely a family area, but the average household incomes in some ZIP codes around Valrico and Fish Hawk are as high as any in the county.

Chianti is hoping to take advantage of those numbers in Chapdelaine's old location on Brandon Boulevard. Chianti co-owner Louis Gallo, a New York native, says he has the experience upscale diners are looking for with well-dressed servers, a tuxedo-wearing maitre d' and unique dishes like scungilli, an Italian conch entree.

"I felt that the Brandon and Valrico area and Fish Hawk was ready for an upscale restaurant," said Gallo, who operates the restaurant with Richard Cadrick, the maitre d', and his son, Louis Jr. "People have been thanking God for sending me here. They want to get dressed and come to dinner.

"They don't want to wear their shorts. They want to spend some time in front of the mirror and put on their jewelry."

Gallo also has to be encouraged by the success of some other independents that have succeeded thanks to friendly service, niche entrees and consistent quality.

Jesse's Steaks has been around for more than 20 years, La Septima isn't hurting for business and the Brunchery always has been one of my favorites. European Gourmet and Della's Delectables are top draws for sandwiches, and Della's converts into a bistro on certain nights.

Open since 1981, Ben's Family Restaurant continues to be the area's oldest restaurant, and you haven't truly lived out here until you've had the double-decker from the venerable Babe's Pizza.

However, if you're looking to have a special evening in Brandon, if you want the fancy meal with the bottle of wine, BuddyFreddy's and Waffle House aren't going to get it done.

As we continue to evolve from sleepy Tampa bedroom community to a city with its own identity, I think we could use one or two signature places for prom dates, anniversaries and those times when you have to compensate for making your spouse really, really mad.

That's all I'm saying.

- Ernest Hooper can be reached at 813 226-3406 or Hooper@sptimes.com

[Last modified December 1, 2005, 09:34:11]