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Don't turn up your nose at cookies by the tray

By KATHY SAUNDERS
Published December 14, 2005

Picking up a tray of cookies to take to a party? No need to travel farther than the local Publix. At least that's what our Taster's Choice panelists decided after sampling holiday cookies from six local groceries.

Along with taste, we judged the cookie trays and bundles on their variety, color and texture. Would they stand alone on a buffet table this holiday season? The answer for most of the treats was yes.

The platter from Publix ($7.99 for a 20-ounce tray) received 73 out of a possible 100 points from our panelists. We bought a small tray, but Publix sells larger ones with the same variety.

"These are wonderful, soft and sweet," said one judge. "They are perfect for a small crowd - nice and colorful and Christmasy."

One self-proclaimed "lover of cheap cookies" on our panel said he was delighted with the sugar cookies on the Publix plate.

"They are homemade looking and festive," he said.

Four of the five panelists said they probably will purchase a tray of the Publix cookies this holiday season.

One judge was disappointed when she bit into a pretzel-shaped, chocolate and sprinkle covered cookie on the Publix tray. She was anticipating a pretzel under the sugar but got a cookie instead.

"These were pleasant tasting but not fabulous," she said.

Another tray purchased at Publix but also found at other stores was the Holiday assortment from Parco Foods of Blue Island, Ill. ($12.49 for a 26-ounce tray). These received 62 points.

"This is just what you would expect a platter of Christmas cookies to look like," said one judge. The plate included a sampling of sugar cookies, chocolate and a few petit fours.

"This reminds me of Currier and Ives," one judge said.

A round tin labeled "Fancy Cookie Assortment" from Wal-Mart ($3 for 1 pound, 6 ounces) was the third pick of our panelists. They gave these cookies baked by Little Dutch Boy Bakeries in Draper, Utah, 59 points.

Judges liked the "buttery snap" to some of the cookies from the Wal-Mart sampler.

A powdered-sugar-covered gingersnap was among the favorites from this variety pack.

"Leave Santa the powdered sugar cookies and he'll give you anything you ask for," said one judge.

A couple panelists thought they detected an unwanted flavor of licorice or anisette in some of the Wal-Mart cookies.

Also sampled were holiday cookie assortments from Royal Dansk ($2.50 for a 12-ounce tin); Kash n' Karry Bake Shop ($7.04 for a 1.4-pound tray); and a bucket of Lenell Cooky Co. cookies purchased at Albertsons ($4.99 for a 36-ounce tub).

Panelists were Nan Jensen, registered dietitian with Pinellas County Extension; Julie Overton, personal chef; Bob Devin Jones, artistic director of Studioat620; Jim Yockey, an aesthetician at Tierra Verde Salon; and Janet K. Keeler, St. Petersburg Times food editor. All products were tasted blind.

- Send suggestions for product testing to Taste section, St. Petersburg Times, P.O. Box 1121, St. Petersburg, FL 33731 or e-mail them to krieta@sptimes.com Please put TEST SUGGESTION in the subject line. To read past Taster's Choice columns, go to www.sptimes.com/food

No. 1: Publix.

No. 2: Parco Foods.

No. 3: Wal-Mart.

[Last modified December 13, 2005, 10:11:05]