Estonia has the charming cafes, historic beauty and delightful shops of other European destinations, but residents speak English and rates are reasonable.
By SANDRA JACOBS
Published December 18, 2005
TALLINN, Estonia - Leaving the cathedral, we strolled across the street to view a panorama that was breathtaking: Red tile roofs glinted in the sun. Black and green church steeples rose majestically above the city. And there was the Baltic Sea looming on the horizon.
This was certainly a dramatic change from the past seven months, which my husband, Eric, and I had spent as Peace Corps volunteers in Ukraine. We were able to take a short holiday from the rewarding challenges of living a Ukrainian life and, looking for inspiration, we wanted to explore a success story from the former Soviet Union.
Thus, we came to Estonia, along with Latvia the European Union's newest member. Both countries have made an amazing recovery since gaining their independence from the Soviet Union in 1991.
Gone are the Stalinist monuments, with historical buildings renovated or rebuilt in their place. The clean streets rival those in Switzerland and Austria. The sidewalk cafes are as charming as those in France and Munich. The local population proudly speaks English, now standard instruction in school.
And the price? A fraction of that for a traditional European vacation.
We started our trip in Tallinn, a city of about 350,000 and the capital of Estonia. Tallinn's Old Town is filled with delightful restaurants, cafes and shops. The last stock classic Estonian souvenirs, such as handmade wool sweaters with traditional designs, amber jewelry and handmade linens. Soviet-era memorabilia was plentiful in antiques shops.
If the weather is nice, sit outside and enjoy the view of the Old Town Hall, built in 1404.
We made two side trips from Tallinn.
- Tartu, home to Estonia's oldest university, is a quaint town of 100,000 in the south of the country. Travel time via express bus is about 31/2 hours. In Tartu, you can wander through the old town and University of Tartu (established in 1632).
As in most college towns, there is an Irish establishment. In Tartu it is the Oscar Wilde Pub, with dark wood and brass furnishings, shepherd's pie and Guinness.
- We also wanted a quiet location where we could relax for a few days, and found it in the Park Hotel Palmse, nestled in the middle of Lahemaa National Park in northern Estonia.
The hotel, part of a large former manor, is on a lake complete with swans and loons. The hotel has light wood furnishings, down comforters on the beds and forest views from the rooms.
The park's Visitors Center nearby has an English-language film on the park history and its nature. You can spend a relaxing day just strolling around the manor fruit orchard, or rent a bicycle for $8 per day and glide through pristine pine forests and tiny fishing villages and enjoy spectacular views of the Gulf of Finland.
- Tampa resident Sandra Jacobs holds both bachelor's and master's degrees in international studies and with her husband, Eric, is living in Vinnytsia, Ukraine, as a Peace Corps volunteer working in social and economic programs.
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE: Delta, Lufthansa and Air France serve Tallinn via connecting service from the United States. For travel within Estonia, Eurolines Bus Service (www.eurolines.com) offers comfortable transport at economy prices.
STAYING THERE: Scandic Hotel St. Barbara, a Hilton property, is on the edge of Tallinn's Old Town. It provided a stylish place to relax. Breakfasts, included with the stay, were a combination of German, Russian and local influences. From the United States, call 011 372-640-7430; www.scandic-hotels.com Double rooms are from $100 per night.
SHOPPING THERE: Tallinn Wool Market, at Old City Gate Towers, has items such as handmade sweaters from $30.
EATING THERE: Maikrahv Restoran is in a 15th century townhouse on the main square and offers innovative nouveau cuisine. Or for a traditional Estonian meal in a nontourist restaurant, try Kuldse Notsu Korts. Menu options include pig knuckle, wild boar meatballs and potato-mushroom casserole. After your meal, you may enjoy a glass of delicious Vana Tallinn, the local digestive spirit.
Cheese lovers should try St. Michael Juustu Restoran (the Cheese Restaurant). This creative haute Estonian establishment incorporates cheese into each dish, whether it is smoked salmon or pork.
Kuldse Notsu Korts, Dunkri Str. 8.
Maikrahv Restoran, Town Hall Square, phone 011 372-631-4227, www.maikrahv.ee
St. Michael Juustu Restoran, Nunne 14, phone 011 372-627-4845, www.juusturestoran.ee
TARTU
STAYING THERE: Park Hotell; phone 011 372-0427-000, www.parkhotell.ee Double room from $80 per night.
LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK
STAYING THERE: Park Hotel Palmse, 45202 Laane-Virumaa; 011 372-322-3626, www.phpalmse.ee Double room from $70 per night; hotel transfer from Viitna, $8.
