Print

Email story

Comment

Email editor

Wine briefs

By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published December 28, 2005

Bubbly strategies

Most famous-name French Champagne will hit $35 this year, so let's review the options for ringing in 2006:

- Best-buy bargains: Outside Champagne's precious precincts, the world bubbles with affordable sparklers under $20.

From United States vineyards, look for Gloria Ferrer, Pacific Echo, Piper Sonoma and Roederer Estate. In Italians, choose proseccos or Franciacortas; or the bargain Rotari Brut. Australia's best are Sea View, Taltarni and Greg Norman.

The Spanish, of course, rewrote the bubbly book, starting with Codorniu and Freixenet. Segura Vidas is a good alternative, and Paul Chenau is a rare treat under $10. From non-Champagne corners of France, try Perdrier or sparkling Vouvray.

- Drink small: Many brands pop off in pint-size splits or smaller, a la Pommery Pop. These give you a bit o' bubbles for $15 or less.

- Be a sweetie: Tired of pretending to like Champagne because the bubbles are more fun than the sour taste? Go for Nectar Imperial, the honey sweet sparkler from Moet & Chandon. Or try a Ceretto or Michele Chiarlo moscato from Italy with peach fuzz and fizz.

- Que shiraz, shiraz: Your favorite Australian red comes in a red sparkler too (would Crocodile Dundee drink pink?). Oz has always made bubbling shiraz, and several brands ship more to the United States now. An easy change of pace.

- Big years for big shots: To treat yourself to the best that France turns out, the rare sparklers made in only the best years, try a vintage Champagne. The best years currently available are 1990, 1995 and 1996. Expect them to cost $50 and up. The 1990 is especially ready, having its own Sweet Fifteen; buy it if you can.

APPLE SQUEEZIN'S

Look for cidra, the hard apple cider that keeps wintry spirits warm in Asturias, Galicia and other parts of northwest Spain. Long hard to find, Tampa Bay delis and bodegas now bring in Spanish ciders every year during the holidays. It sells for about $6 for a 750ml bottle. Serve it fresh and pass the glass.

COFFEE TABLE BOOK

The World's Greatest Wine Estates: A Modern Perspective by Robert M. Parker Jr. (Simon and Schuster, $75).

Parker, author and editor of The Wine Advocate, is one of wine's best-known authorities, but one who does not go unchallenged on his confident assertions.

For connoisseurs, this 708-page book does indeed span the world of great wines, from Argentina to the United States by way of Australia, France and Spain, among others. The book is heavy with information and nicely sprinkled with color illustrations. The introduction includes basic comments on what makes a wine great, useful for those still below connoisseur level.

- Compiled by CHRIS SHERMAN from staff reports and the Associated Press. Reach him at 727 893-8585 or sherman@sptimes.com

WINE OF THE WEEK

Bogle Phantom, 2002

Nothing stealthy or spectral in this bottle. Anyone who has shaken hands with Bogle's under-$10 bargains from Clarksburg, Calif., knows that the winery's magic is solid, hot-blooded stuff. It always takes rustic grapes and polishes them quite elegantly for the price.

With Phantom, Bogle moves up several notches in honor of bygone forebears. It's a field blend of Rhone and very American grapes of good ancestry, mostly petite sirah with old vine mouvedre and old vine zinfandel.

The result, far from ghostly, is a big ripe wine bursting with juice and rip-roaring gusto.

This is rich, from vanilla and cherries in the nose to a mouth full of berry and plum jam with cinnamon and chocolate, sugar and spice. The texture is smooth and fun with a pleasant finish.

Sip it on a cold day and it'll make you want to cook a stew, roast a lamb leg or put extra sausage on your pizza. Sock away a couple bottles for the next few winters. Phantom is worth the extra bucks.

Availability: $16 to $18 in wine stores.

[Last modified December 27, 2005, 17:17:03]