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The makings of a good meal

By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published January 12, 2006

And the specials are ... Bay area food fortunes continue to rise as we survey the culinary landscape. The makings of a good meal Whenever I'm asked the most important aspect of a restaurant, I never hesitate to say the food, of course. It's a purist answer, and incomplete. Last meals Restaurants die every year because of changing tastes and corporate competition, but the 2005 obituaries contained more than a few old names claimed by development.

Whenever I'm asked the most important aspect of a restaurant, I never hesitate to say the food, of course. It's a purist answer, and incomplete.

Long waits and bad service leave a worse taste than an overcooked steak. Too-high prices and stingy portions spoil a big-hearted splurge. And any food tastes better in the right setting: lively, friendly and comfy, neither stuffy nor too hip, not overly loud in decibels and decor.

I want all those things too - and within 10 minutes of my house - but I want them most of all with food that reflects care in all aspects: buying, cooking and presentation, and in detail.

Whatever the cuisines or the price, my prejudices are plain: good ingredients in the kitchen and good people there to fashion them into good eating. A chef or cook should run the kitchen, not a host.

Good stuff starts with bread. It should be crisp and crusty or it should be homemade crackers, yeast rolls, biscuits or corn bread.

Appetizers, salads and side dishes should be fresh and long on fruits and vegetables; a medley of zucchini and broccoli doesn't count. They should have color and contrasting flavors and textures. I like good cheese, but not when it's ice cold.

I like pasta in many shapes, rice a thousand ways, and mashes and fries made of yucca or sweet potato as well as white spuds. I love lowly beans as much as expensive mushrooms.

In main dishes, I want more than a steak in the usual cut. Meat - beef, pork or lamb - tastes better with a bone it. It should taste of its cooking, seared on the iron or braised for a week. I like big shrimp and raw tuna and love a restaurant that searches out amberjack, lane snapper and wahoo instead of sea bass and tilapia. Seasonings and trimmings should change for every entree. Chefs can add new tastes, like an espresso crust on beef, or perfect old classics like scallops and peas. Sauces and soups should be well-made and smooth whether classic, traditional or innovative.

For dessert, spare me the tiramisu and chocolate indulgence. Bake a pie or make fresh ice cream from fresh peaches. If you have espresso, keep the machine repaired and make sure there is crema on top. Wine should be half the price it is, but I won't push my luck.

And of course, hot foods should be served hot, on time and with good cheer.

[Last modified January 11, 2006, 10:48:18]