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Wine of the Week
By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published January 25, 2006
Allegrini Valpolicella Classico 2002
Venice and the Veneto are lovely places for white wines, sure, and if you pay attention, can make charming red wine for your money.
Familiarity with generations and jugs of Valpolicella, the red of local cafes, has bred more contempt than deserved. Yes, it can be cheap, dull, thin and too tart. But in the right hands is is bright, lively, of decent body and still a good buy.
Allegrini is one of the trustworthy makers. The basic classico is not for softies or sweeties, but the nose and taste are full of red fruits, the crisp acidity is balanced by a medium soft that grows and broadens in the glass to a full, satisfying drink. It's spaghetti wine and more, and consider it with chicken, maybe cacciatore, pizza, stew or cheeses.
There are other good guys in the region (look for Bertani, Masi, Tommasi and Zenato) and grander grades (single vineyards, reccioto and amarones, more robust in flavor and price).
But give Val a chance.
Availability: around $15 in liquor stores.
[Last modified January 24, 2006, 09:33:07]
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