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Wine of the week
By Chris Sherman
Published February 22, 2006
Cellar No. 8 North Coast Zinfandel, 2002; $16. More than a century ago immigrants from the Italian-Swiss area on the edge of the Alps arrived in northern Sonoma. They named a small town Asti for the famous wine of the Piedmont and planted vines and other crops. Of course, their cooperative made wine, Italian Swiss Colony, in big bottles of sweet hearty reds sold all across the country (ask your grandparents). The colony shrank and wine styles changed but vineyards remained and a succession of fine labels arrived. Today, the old Cellar No. 8 is alive again, run by the big Australian outfit that owns Beringer and other wineries. The taste is robust and very Italian, especially in zinfandel, a favorite of early Italian winemakers. With zin, carignan and petite sirah, the modern winemakers made a big red, ruby in color, with a noseful of licorice and berries, a rich dark taste of black fruits, candies and pepper, and a sturdy tannic base. Give it time in the glass and in the bottle and serve with a stouthearted roast or stew. The colony would be proud. Availability: most wine shops.
[Last modified February 22, 2006, 10:45:38]
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