Caribbean islands grounded in Europe
You don't need to cross the Atlantic to experience European habits and history. A trip south will do the trick.
By ROBERTA SOTONOFF
Published February 26, 2006
Europe may be less crowded in winter, but you have to deal with dreary weather, long nights and that trans-Atlantic flight. But some Caribbean islands have the feel of Europe - but with more palm trees. French, Dutch, British and Spanish customs and language are imposed against a backdrop of white sand beaches and isolated bays. Here is a sampling of a few of them.
THE FRENCH
MARTINIQUE
French roots run deep in Martinique. Napoleon's wife, Josephine, was born here. Euros buy the latest Parisian fashions, French food, perfumes and music - as well as the island's prize-winning rum - in Fort de France, the capital city. French ambience makes you think Martinique is a Caribbean suburb of Paris.
Silky white sand beaches line the shoreline of Fort de France's south, while to the north, the sea meets silvery black volcanic sand. And yes, like Europe, topless bathing is commonplace.
Mount Pele dominates the island's north end. Soaring 4,550 feet, it is an awesome climb for the intrepid. Canopying - climbing and rappelling above the tree line - and canyoning also keep the bold busy. The less fearless might choose the botanical garden at nearby Les Ombrages.
ST. BARTHELEMY
St. Bart's blends the casualness of the Caribbean with the sophistication of France. Chill out on a secluded beach or shop for the latest in French fashions in the little town of Gustavia. Spend the day sailing and the evening dining on French cuisine. Red-roofed houses dot the island's many hills and steep roads meander down to pristine beaches and rocky coves. Some say that the rocky shore of the Toiny coast resembles the rocky shores of Normandy.
THE DUTCH/FRENCH
ST. MAARTEN/ST. MARTIN
At neighboring St. Martin/St. Maarten, there's one beach for each square mile of land (37) on this island. Inhabited by 70 nationalities that speak dozens of languages, the island is both Dutch (St. Maarten) and French (St. Martin). It is difficult to get a bad meal on either side, but St. Martin's French cuisine? C'est magnifique.
St. Martin is very European. There's the euros thing and it takes an electrical maven to bypass the safety mechanisms on those French electrical outlets. Most hotels are intimate and charming. Explore secluded beaches, but the often-crowded Orient Beach is a sight not to be missed. Neither is Pic du Paradis. The views are stellar.
Pass the meandering border to the Dutch side and things change. Because it is a popular cruise ship port-of-call, St. Maarten is more Americanized. Shops and casinos are varied. Its primo attraction, the St. Maarten 12 Metre Challenge, gives even novices a chance to race or relax on an authentic 1987 America's Cup yacht.
THE DUTCH
CURACAO
Curacao's harbor could fool anyone into thinking they are in the Netherlands. Gabled-roofed Dutch colonial buildings, dressed in a variety of pastels - Caribbean touch - sit alongside the water in Willemstad, the capital. The Queen Emma pontoon bridge sweeps aside when a ship needs to access the port. It would do very nicely on one of Amsterdam's canals.
Another Dutch colonial gem is Mikve Israel-Emanuel, the Western Hemisphere's oldest synagogue (1732). Sand, a reminder of the Jews' desert wanderings, covers the floor of its elegant sanctuary.
More Caribbean than Dutch is the former 18th century slave market, Kura Hulanda. Its museum focuses on the trans-Atlantic slave trade and houses chilling artifacts, like a metal bearlike trap that was used to catch young children.
Get the shopping and sightseeing done first. Once you sample the beaches, dive or snorkel, it will be difficult to leave the water. And don't forget to try keshi yema - shredded meat or chicken, spices and vegetables boiled in Dutch Edam cheese shells. It is a specialty at the Avila Hotels' Belle Terrace.
BONAIRE
Bonaire's tiny capital of Kralendijk is also a study of pastel-colored, Dutch colonial-styled buildings. Even if you stop to buy some Gouda cheese, you can see it all in five minutes.
When the Dutch seized Bonaire in 1633, they came to mine the salt ponds. Today the pristine island is a world-class dive destination with plentiful reefs, glassy water and about 213 species of fish, zealously maintained by Bonaire Marine Park. And the Salt Flats? They are a pink flamingo sanctuary. You'll also find the pink creatures at Washington/Slagbaai National Park. If you can navigate its dirt roads, the park is a paradise for bird watchers and those who love the sound of pounding surf on rugged cliffs.
THE BRITISH
NEVIS
Much of this lush island's very proper and subdued ambience is owed to its British heritage. Lord Horatio Nelson, Britain's most famous naval hero, met his wife, Fanny Nisbet, while serving in Nevis. Tea, cream, scones and finger sandwiches are an afternoon happening and a British tradition at the Nisbet Plantation Beach Club and at the Montpelier Inn. Both hotels are former sugar plantations.
White beaches border the island. Though diving, snorkeling, hiking and lounging are common island pursuits, Nevis' most popular spectator sport, believe it or not, is horse racing. Each month at Indian Castle Race Track, there is music, barbecue and fierce competition.
The island's real charm lies with its quirks and characters. Though Four Seasons has a first-class Robert Trent Jones II golf course, the isle's other two courses are two-hole and 12-hole courses. Taxis have names like Postman and Energizer. One of the drivers, TC, insists her real name is Tough Cookie.
BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS (BVI):
You'll likely see the fluttering Union Jack, Queen Elizabeth II's picture, or hear the British accents of expatriates in the BVI. But, when it comes to money, keep your British pounds. The legal tender is the U.S. dollar. The rest of the BVI is a combination of 50 closely knit emerald isles with deserted beaches, crystal waters, colorful corals and gentle trade winds.
Each island has its own style. For example, cruise ships passengers might clog Road Town, Tortola, but it's easy to find good shopping, a quiet beach, a good meal - like the spaghetti with Jamaican pesto at CalaMaya - or a hilly hike at Sage Mountain Park. The pace is slower and the landscape more sparse on Virgin Gorda. You can navigate the dazzling rock formations at the Baths, a labyrinth of granite grottos. Numerous varieties of fish make for excellent snorkeling. The tiniest island, Jost Van Dyke, has few people, lush landscape and mountains, plus abundant beach bars and restaurants. It is the place to party. To the north, abundant reefs around the flat island of Anegada make it a diver's dream and a sailor's nightmare.
DOMINICA
Dominica (pronounced Dom-uhn-EE-ka) is a hodgepodge of British, French and Caribbean culture. Driving is on the left side of the road, and the Fort Shirley ruins at Cabrits National Park and the Botanical Garden, which was founded as an annex to London's Kew Garden, are all things British. The official language is English, but French-based creole is widely spoken. Caribbean architecture, shops and cruise ships crowd the capital of Roseau.
The island is really about land-scape. Morne Diablotin, the Carib-bean's loftiest peak (4,747 feet), looms on the northern end, while the gurgling Boiling Lake occupies the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Morne Trois Piton National Park. A 50-foot waterfall spills into Emerald Pool, the island's most crowded tourist attraction. Trekkers, divers and snorkelers cannot get enough of this place, nor can those who like to laze around the pool with a good book.
THE SPANISH
DOMINICAN REPUBLIC
The birthplace of merengue dancing is really a land of contrasts - white water rapids and brown rivers and undulating landscapes that descend to pearl-white beaches. Christopher's brother, Bartolomeo Columbus, founded the New World's first city, Santo Domingo, in 1496. Wander the narrow cobblestone streets and observe the Spanish architecture in the 12-block Zona Colonial. You'll think you have been transported to 15th century Spain. Traditions like siesta time are still observed. On the other hand, modern Santo Domingo is chic boutiques, art galleries, trendy restaurants and nightlife.
The problem is that most visitors stay at all-inclusive resorts. Many prefer to bask on a picturesque beach, golf, wind surf or raft - all first-class sports here - but never experience the authentic Dominican Republic. You have to get away from the resort to do that. Luckily for guests at Casa de Campo, the recreated 16th century village, Altos de Chavon, is only three miles away.
PUERTO RICO
Fountain of youth searcher and first governor, Ponce de Leon, founded the capital, San Juan. Traces of the Old World - cobblestone streets, wrought-iron balconies, 17th century Spanish architecture, an old cathedral, a fortress - still linger in the Old San Juan section.
Puerto Rico is a blend of urban and natural delights. San Juan's lively nightlife and fine restaurants can give Miami competition. Music - reggaeton and Salsa - and food like mofongo - fried, chopped plantains served with meat, seafood or pork - are pure Puerto Rico. Balneario de Luquillo is the quintessential beach but there are sandy shores for everyone from sunbathers to surfers. Be aware that the beaches are public and the popular ones can get crowded and dirty on weekends.
The drive to El Yunque, on the eastern side, is quite picturesque. The 28,000-acre rain forest is heaven for hikers and bird watchers who remember to bring their rain gear.
-- Roberta Sotonoff is a freelance writer living in Glenview, Ill.