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Wine of the week

By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published March 22, 2006


The Barefoot gang makes a lot of wine, all of it pretty cheap and some of it pretty good. This bottle is in the latter group, which puts a sharp punch line on the Barefoot gag. In less than 20 years this Sonoma company has made casual wine from all over California into a bargain crowd pleaser.

Unlike the image of freshly stomped rustic reds, this Barefoot is a crisp, almost colorless, white. It's not as tart as the citrus-tinged sauvignon blancs of New Zealand or steely Sancerres. The Barefoot has hints of richness, the cool white fruit flavors of pear, lime and melon in a round texture.

Yet it's dry enough, refreshing with a whiff of smoke at the end that makes it great with seafood and sushi. Indeed it wears a medal from one of the Pacific Coast Oyster Wine contests (which picks sauv blancs, chenins and pinots as the U.S. answer to Europe's favorite oyster wine, muscadet).

Availability: Supermarkets and wine stores, $5 to $8.

[Last modified March 22, 2006, 08:47:32]


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