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Travel

Planning powers these pedals

If riding a bicycle across the country is your dream, the important work is done before leaving home.

By ASSOCIATED PRESS
Published March 26, 2006

The best way to start a cross country bicycle trip is to pretend you're not doing it.

Convince yourself that you are embarking on a series of day trips. It will do no good to anticipate the Rockies while still smelling the salt air of the Atlantic, or to think about the East if leaving from the West.

One rest stop to another, one day at a time, one state before the next. That's the essential mind game. It will all add up to a journey exposing you to staggering landscapes, the kindness of strangers and abilities you didn't know you had.

Many who bicycle recreationally dream of going the distance. Few do it, largely because of the time commitment. You need close to three months - more if you want to smell the roses. That's why cross country cyclists usually fall into two categories - those taking time off before college, and those whose kids have just gone off to college. Getting that much time in prime working and family-rearing years is tough for others.

Once you set aside the time, you must overcome the myths and make a plan. Here are some tips.

COST. A few thousand dollars will do if you rough it. Plan on $4,000 to $5,000 if you hope to spend most nights in a (cheap) motel. Don't skimp on the bicycle; count on $1,200 at least, on top of trip costs, for a genuine touring model.

FITNESS. You don't need to be Lance Armstrong. Ideally, though, train beforehand and do some rides loaded down with everything you'll take.

SAFETY. A third hurdle is the fear that it's too dangerous out there. Most of my route was on amazingly quiet roads, but shoulders were often skimpy or nonexistent. Excessive caution is the best survival skill; if you are new to bicycling, hone traffic and safety skills.

For many reasons - weather warnings among them - a cell phone is essential safety equipment. Keep it charged and be aware when you are out of cell range.

A bright, lightweight rear flashing light is also a major safety boost. Some riders also want a full-power headlight, but that was not worth the weight for me; instead I brought a small flashing front light to help drivers to see me at dusk. That wouldn't be sufficient for night-riding.

Beware of thunderstorms; take note of shelter as you pass, in case you need to turn back. And stock up on food and water if you're not sure what's down the road. Towns with one store that closes early are common.

ROUTE: East to west, or west to east? Either is manageable. West to east seems more popular. If you leave in the spring, you avoid the extreme heat of the Western desert, but may encounter frigid nights and snow in the Rockies.

Then this decision: Which route? Some make their own. Many follow one of three laid out by Adventure Cycling: the 4,248-mile TransAmerica between Yorktown, Va., and Astoria, Ore.; the 4,295-mile Northern Tier between Bar Harbor, Maine, and Anacortes, Wash.; or the 3,159-mile Southern Tier between St. Augustine and San Diego.

Another popular option uses the 1,579-mile Western Express between San Francisco and Pueblo, Colo. In Pueblo, it hooks up with the TransAm, saving 460 miles, although subjecting the cyclist to extreme conditions in Utah and Nevada.

If making your own route, or planning to ride remote stretches, consider a GPS device.

GEAR: Be obsessive about leaving stuff home. You will feel every ounce. Expensive synthetic clothing pays off in light weight, quick cleaning and durability. Footwear is bulky; anything more than one good pair of biking shoes and a pair of sandals to stave off the campground-shower nasties is an indulgence.

I decided against campground cooking gear; many bring it. My heaviest items were a 4-pound laptop, a 3-pound tent and a 1-pound sleeping bag, along with jeans I mailed back and wish I hadn't.

Choose between panniers - saddlebags - and a trailer. I rode with rear panniers and a handlebar bag (see the accompanying photo). Many bikers add front panniers for better weight distribution and capacity. A trailer might be better for a lot of camping gear. A hydration pack that holds three liters of water is vital, especially in hot, dry and remote areas.

ACCOMMODATIONS: You can have a roof over your head every night with careful planning. But your flexibility will be reduced, because daily mileage will sometimes be dictated by distance between motels. Most nights, that won't be a problem. But you'll occasionally be stuck with an overpriced motel or truly awful digs. I found many hospitable mom-and-pop motels for $35 or less. If you commit to motels nightly, leave the camping gear home. Not sure? Bring it and ship it home if you don't use it.

TOURS: On organized tours, you ride with a group but carry your own gear. Tour leaders cycle with you, arrange accommodations - usually, camping - and coordinate logistics, while riders share duties like cooking. Available for less than $4,000, including food and camping.

Fancier tours, which cost $5,000 to $10,000, will carry your gear for you and provide food, motels, roadside repairs and even a van for tired riders.

If you're riding alone or with a companion, however, you make the decisions yourself - some in advance, many every day on the road.

ON THE WEB: Directory of bike tours and resources for long trips: www.pedaling.com. Online journals of such long-distance cyclists are at www.crazyguyonabike.com.

[Last modified March 26, 2006, 08:59:37]