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Taste of ridge

By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published April 19, 2006

Ridge Vineyards specializes in red wines grown in many parts of California and vinified at wineries in Cupertino and northern Sonoma.

It makes zinfandels from many vineyards, each finely made, about $25 to $35, and rich treats for ordinary drinkers as well as connoisseurs. They are easy to drink on release and will be at their best in four to five years. Ridge also makes a cabernet sauvignon, from its home vineyard Monte Bello, which sells for $70 and up depending on vintage, and a chardonnay.

The great strength is in distinct character of zinfandels from different vineyards. Consider two 2003 zins:

-- Ridge Vineyards California, Lytton Springs, 2003 ($30). An early and signature vineyard in Dry Creek Valley, this zin is a crystal brilliant ruby in color, yet full in body and smooth with a great finish. In a Rhone blend with petite sirah and carignane, it smells and tastes of cherries and jam, enrobed in rich tones of chocolate and coffee. Earthy and smoky, fire up a porterhouse. Or pretend you did.

-- Ridge Vineyards zinfandel, York Creek, 2003 ($30). From sturdy Spring Mountain on the west side of Napa, these vines make a sleek zinfandel with firm backbone. It's more European in style, with a portion of petite sirah that produces cranberries and raspberries with hints of cedar and forest. The color is dark and deep (proof that Ridge disdains filtering) yet the texture is lean and sleek, more like a Burgundy. Put on a red dress, but make it silk.

Bern's Winefest

Ridge Vineyards wines will be served at Bern's Ninth Annual Winefest in Tampa. Ridge's Paul Draper will speak at a seminar during the grand tasting April 30 and at a dinner at Bern's Steakhouse on May 1. For information and tickets, go to www.bernsfinewines.com/bernswinefest/ or call (813) 253-0358.

[Last modified April 19, 2006, 08:13:12]