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Big Apple ambience, Little Italy cuisine

By ANDREW MEACHAM
Published June 9, 2006

Al Capone's stare is unsettling. But starting in on the moist garlic bread with marinara sauce, you'll forget about Scarface and other mobsters whose framed photos line a wall at Angelina's.

Aromas from a homespun kitchen permeate this place. Tomato, oregano, olive oil and Parmesan cheese lock onto your nostrils as soon as you walk in, promising an authentic slice of New York.

Angelina's Fine Italian Cuisine delivers on that promise at lunch with fried calamari, mussels or antipasto appetizers $9 each, or bruschetta di pomadora, a grilled bread soaked in herbs and topped with melted mozzarella cheese ($8).

Lunch entrees range from $7 to $13 and include such offerings as penne alfredo ($8), chicken or veal marsala ($9), or shellfish over linguini ($13).

After a freshly constituted salad with Italian peppercorn dressing, my tortellini positano ($8) arrived. Cheese-filled rings of baked pasta swam in tomato sauce and sausage slices.

Owner Anthony Cimino operated similar restaurants in Manhattan and Long Island, N.Y.

"If it works, don't fix it," said Cimino, 47.

Evening specialties include lamb or veal, seafood, stuffed shells, or pizza with a thin or thick crust.

A banquet area can handle up to 50 guests for receptions and other gatherings. The restaurant gives motorists a tranquil resting place from State Road 60.

Besides the New York ambience, Cimino prides himself on home-cooked food, served in generous portions.

I didn't think I could eat all of my tortellini. Then I changed my mind.

Andrew Meacham can be reached at 661-2431 or ameacham@sptimes.com.

ANGELINA'S FINE ITALIAN CUISINE111 E Brandon Blvd. 684-9697HOURS: Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.Sunday, 2 to 9 p.m.ATTIRE: Casual.PRICES: Lunch entrees range from $7 to $13. Dinner entrees range from $13 to $30. Early bird specials from 4 to 6 p.m. start at $10. Twenty percent gratuity added to parties of five or more. Sharing charge $7. Reservations recommended.CREDIT CARDS:Visa, MasterCard, Discovery, American Express.WEB SITE: www.angelinasitalian.com.

[Last modified June 8, 2006, 13:47:07]