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Briefs

By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published June 28, 2006

Watermelon on the rocks

Mango schmango, too much loco with coco? Sometimes you want to outlaw fruit flavors in alcohol.

But not watermelon. Watermelon has moved from schnapps to vodka and rum, perfect for summer drinks, whether a revised Cosmopolitan, a sprightly rum collins or a slushy watermelon daiquiri.

Even better, use the real thing. What makes watermelon so refreshing is that it seems all water, sweetness and color. And nowadays there are hardly any seeds.

Cut seedless watermelon into cubes or melon balls, freeze and add a splash to any clear drink. Or seed and puree watermelon (in blender or pushed through a strainer). Use cold; if it's too sweet, add a touch of lemon juice.

Wine of the week

Calera, vin gris of pinot noir, 2005 Central Coast.

That's rose to you, Bud, not a bit gray. But since Josh Jensen is so proud of it, this pink wine in a screw cap carries a fancy name and price.

Deservedly. We need to give roses more respect - and give in to something we all want to drink in the summer. Roses are in bloom at many price levels now, with more to come.

This one is high-end and dry in a southern French manner you'd expect from Jensen, who has produced crisp Burgundian pinot noir and chardonnay inland from Monterey.

Nothing shy or blushing about this rose; it wows with electric strawberry color, a bushel of fruits in the nose and a bowl of cherries on the tongue in an easy smooth texture. More charming than many grown-up pinot noirs.

A bit indulgent for a ham sandwich or a picnic basket, but cool pleasure with salmon, shrimp or chicken at an outdoor dinner party.

Availability: $15 to $20, wine shops and liquor stores.

[Last modified June 27, 2006, 11:56:28]