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Food

Learn why Europeans love leeks

By PHYLLIS GLAZER, Associated Press
Published June 28, 2006

If you're looking for a change-of-pace flavor for your next soup, quiche or salad, consider giving the role to the leek - a vegetable that deserves the attention.

A kissing cousin of garlic and onion, with a sweeter and more subdued flavor, the leek is eminently versatile, though sadly underappreciated, at least in America.

In Europe, leeks are a cooking staple, prized for their warm and oniony flavor when cooked, and their almost buttery flavor when chopped and sauteed.

The ancient Egyptians adored leeks, and even adorned their pyramid tombs with drawings of them. The ancient Romans also valued leeks, considering them superior to onions and garlic, which were regarded as food for the masses.

Leeks are an essential ingredient in soups like French vichyssoise and Scottish cockaleekie. They give flavor to stews such as the French pot-au-feu, and are used for stocks, appetizers and salads.

For salads and delicate dishes, it's best to use tender young leeks about 1½ inches in diameter. Larger than this they become tougher and stronger flavored, but are still fine for soups and stews. Avoid those with dried-out leaves or bulbous bases.

To prepare leeks for cooking, remove any withered outer leaves and trim and discard the green upper leaves down to where the green begins to pale. Cut off the roots and, unless you want to cook them whole, slice the leeks lengthwise. Rinse well to remove sand and grit that often lodges between the layers.

To cook whole leeks, arrange the leeks in one layer in the bottom of a large saucepan, and pour in boiling water or stock until they're half covered. Season with salt and pepper, partly cover the pan and simmer until tender, about 12 minutes or more, depending on size and age.

For a richer flavor, saute the leeks whole in butter until they're barely colored before cooking; or cook chopped leeks in butter in a covered saucepan over low heat for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

To grill leeks, trim off the roots and the upper leaves, leaving just about 2 inches of green above the white. Slice in half lengthwise, rinse carefully and drain. Place on metal skewers, brush with oil and grill cut side down over medium-hot coals for 7 to 10 minutes. Turn again and continue grilling for 5 to 7 minutes, or until tender.

Marinated Leeks in Lemon Vinaigrette

8 baby or young tender leeks

2½ cups chicken stock (or 2 cups water plus ½ cup dry white wine)

For the vinaigrette:

9 tablespoons olive oil (preferably extra-virgin)

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 scant teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 garlic clove, crushed or pressed

¼ teaspoon honey (optional)

Freshly ground black pepper and coarse sea salt, to taste

Rinse leeks and trim to equal lengths and place in a large saucepan. Bring the chicken stock or water and white wine to a boil and add to saucepan to half cover the leeks. Return to boil, then lower heat and partially cover. Cook till fork-tender, about 12 minutes or more depending on age.

While the leeks are cooking, prepare the vinaigrette by whisking together with a wire whisk oil, lemon juice, mustard, garlic, honey, if using, and pepper and salt to taste. (For a quick way to a fluffy dressing, place all the ingredients in a screw-top jar together with an ice cube. Shake thoroughly and remove the ice cube before serving).

Remove leeks from the saucepan and drain thoroughly. While still warm, cover with vinaigrette. Serve warm or at room temperature. (May be prepared up to 24 hours in advance, covered and chilled in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature and shake before using).

[Last modified June 27, 2006, 12:03:57]