I'll have another

Published July 27, 2006

Shank of a different critter.

A long-simmered haunch is fine comfort food but it doesn't have to be veal osso buco in an Italian palazzo or lamb shanks in a Greek diner. New twists on a great old idea include pork osso buco, complete with cornmeal, or turkey. New York chef Francois Payard shortens a dino-sized drumstick and cooks it for three hours, making it a stand-up star among chickpeas and rapini.

- CHRIS SHERMAN, Times food critic