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Missouri town celebrates the way west

By JAY CLARKEBY
Published August 29, 2006

ST. CHARLES, Mo. - A two-year celebration comes to a climax in September when re-enactors of the Lewis and Clark expedition finally return to this city.

It was from this Missouri River town near St. Louis that the explorers left on May 21, 1804, and it was on that same day 200 years later that the re-enactors left to retrace the route of Meriwether Lewis and William Clark through what was then the Louisiana Purchase territory.

They are scheduled to arrive in St. Charles on Sept. 21, together with their replicated white pirogue and dugout canoes, just as the original explorers did. For the occasion, St. Charles is readying an encampment and festival on its Missouri River waterfront, Sept. 18-22.

Celebrating is nothing new to St. Charles, which draws many visitors to one of the most attractive historic downtowns anywhere. Nearly 100 restored buildings line the nine blocks of brick-paved Main Street, said to be the second-largest historic district in the nation.

Visitors swarm the shops, restaurants and bars that now occupy most of those buildings, which date as far back as the 1700s. At night, gaslights cast a soft glow on the trees and sidewalks.

Some visitors come to browse among boutiques such as the Thistle & Clover, a shop specializing in Scottish and Welsh goods, the Reflections of Missouri, with distinctive pen-and-ink drawings of Missouri areas, or Figuero's Coffee, which says it has 2,100 hot sauces from which to choose.

Other visitors eat and drink in tree-shaded patios or inside historic structures. Pub crawlers head mostly for N Main Street.

Special events make summer evenings more festive on Main Street. Music on Main brings live bands to the street on third Wednesdays of the month until Sept. 20. A Bluegrass Festival is scheduled for Sept. 9.

Other upcoming events include a Civil War re-enactment Sept. 9-10, an Irish festival Sept. 23-24 and Oktoberfest Sept. 29-Oct. 1.

St. Charles, which for 200 years was the biggest city on the Missouri River, possesses several other holds on history:

It was the first capital of Missouri, from 1821 to 1826. Guided tours are given of the old capitol, which still stands on Main Street. The legendary Daniel Boone built a home here, which can be visited. He also developed Boone's Lick Trail, which eventually led to the creation of the Santa Fe and Oregon trails.

Preserved homes of early French settlers, some built in unusual vertical-log style, and antiques and collectibles stores are in another St. Charles historic district, Frenchtown.

It is its connection to explorers Lewis and Clark, however, that has brought many to the city. A prime attraction is the Lewis and Clark Boathouse and Nature Center.

In addition to exhibits relating to the expedition, the Boathouse houses a replica of Lewis and Clark's keelboat, in which the re-enactors set out in 2004. Also on view are replicas of the expedition's red and white pirogues (open boats).

Other museums worth visiting are the Foundry Art Centre, showcasing both artworks and performing arts, and the Haviland Museum, which displays 3,000 pieces of Haviland china dating from 1847 to 1930.

Those who crave a more active stay may want to set foot on the Katy Trail, the longest developed rails-to-trails park in the country. Built on the former tracks of the Katy Railroad, the 225-mile-long hiking and biking trail follows the Missouri River for much of its route, hugging rocky bluffs, passing through tunnels and crossing railroad trestles.

Universal Press Syndicate

[Last modified August 28, 2006, 19:38:55]