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Food

dish briefs

Briefs and news of note

By CHRIS SHERMAN and JANET K. KEELER
Published September 13, 2006

NO MORE BRANCH RANCH

Early September just got tougher for fans of the Branch Ranch Dining Room in Plant City. For years they suffered through the seasonal closing of Tampa Bay's oldest edible roadside attraction, leaving them hungry for baked squash, ham and biscuits.

This month, however, the dining room that started in Mary Branch's old TV room in 1957 will not reopen.

Mrs. Branch's grandson Michael Trauner has decided to step out of the full-time restaurant business and to rent out the facility only for large gatherings.

The family will sell the ranch's famously crisp pickles plus marmalades and spreads at retail outlets and online at www.branchranchdiningroom.com.

- CHRIS SHERMAN

TUNA SHOOTERS

Is there no end to the creative ways Chicken of the Sea (and Bumble Bee, too) can package tuna and salmon? There's the time-tested can, for one. Then came the flip-top, peel-back lid, followed by tuna kits with packets of mayo and crackers. Next to arrive were pouches, which begat all sorts of interesting (or not) flavorings, including Thai and lemon pepper. Now, we've got tuna (or salmon) cups with quick-peel lids just like we see on kid-sized applesauce and fruit cups.

A two-pack is $1.79 to $2.79 depending on the grade of fish.

We've got to say, though, it feels a bit like eating cat food. But if you're looking for quick protein for the hurricane kit, it's good idea.

- JANET K. KEELER

New slice of takeout

Panera has made a logical jump from bread to flat-bread pizzas ($7.99 after 4 p.m.) to grab a chunk of dinner business, the one time its parking lots aren't jammed.

The chain is gradually adding the Crispani pizzas, for eat-in or takeout, to local branches. They come in wild mushroom and other yup-and-coming flavors.

- C.S.

Orlando deals

Following similar promotions in New York and other cities, many Orlando restaurants have joined an American Express one-price-eats-all promotion during September. More than two dozen restaurants, including some pricey tables, have set three-course lunch at $17, dinner at $29 (beverage tax and tip extra). Participating restaurants include Euro-cool Anaelle and Hugo, Enzo's on the Lake, Capital Grille, Timpano, Emeril's and a few Disney spots, including Portobello Yacht Club.

It's an idea worth stealing (hint, hint) by individual restaurateurs as well as chains and for more than a month.

- C.S.

Bellyful for Belleair Bluffs

Expect a mid-September opening for Marlin Darlin', the latest fishy concept from the Frank Chivas, Tom Pritchard and the Island Way/Salt Rock brain trust. Chef Sean Squires, who will move from Island Way to Marlin, says the menu will be a modern mix of fresh seafood and world flavors in ceviches, raw bar, flat breads and small plates.

Marlin helps make West Bay Drive and Indian Rocks Road a culinary crossroads. Eugen Fuhrman's E&E Stakeout (100 N Indian Rocks Road; (727) 585-6399) is getting a makeover to open up the dining room and tone down the Southwest theme. The menu and Kokopellis bar (open during the transition) will remain the same.

The neighborhood has already gained Bonefish, Panera and Cody's, plus Bella Vino and WineStyles.

- C.S.

MORE MARKETS

Two weeks ago Taste published an extensive list of ethnic food markets in the Tampa Bay area. Here are a few markets that were left off or whose listing included some incomplete information:

Italian

Plateroti Italian Gourmet, 1621 Gulf-To-Bay Blvd., Clearwater. Carries a wide variety of imported Italian groceries, including pastas, sauces, cheeses, chocolates, candies and deli meats; (727) 461-1817.

A & N Italian Pork Store and Deli, Allen Creek Shopping Center, 17956 U.S. 19 N, Clearwater. Makes Italian sausages, sauces, soups, pastries and takeout entrees and carries table and grating cheeses, desserts, homemade mozzarella, imported pastas and groceries; (727) 531-6371.

Indian

Kohinoor Asian Grocery, 2440 State Road 580, No. 9, Clearwater. Stocks a variety of imported Indian foods, ingredients and spices; (727) 799-9542.

Touch Of India, 25030 U.S. 19 N, Clearwater. Stocks a variety of imported Indian foods, ingredients and spices; (727) 725-7747.

- Times staff

[Last modified September 12, 2006, 11:19:41]