St. Petersburg Times
Special report
Video report
  • For their own good
    Fifty years ago, they were screwed-up kids sent to the Florida School for Boys to be straightened out. But now they are screwed-up men, scarred by the whippings they endured. Read the story and see a video and portrait gallery.
  • More video reports
Multimedia report
Print Email this storyEmail story Comment Email editor
Fill out this form to email this article to a friend
Your name Your email
Friend's name Friend's email
Your message
 

Guest Column

A little work, planning can make existing trees pretty

By JANE WEBER
Published September 26, 2006


Home builders leave large specimen trees or a small grove to enhance the landscape and provide a little shade. New neighbors often call me to advise what to do for these trees, which are often root damaged and stressed by months of construction.

Naturally, the workers prefer to park in their shade. Branches get damaged, sandy soil compacted and wildlife killed or frightened away.

After picking up all bits of concrete, stucco, nails and cigarette butts, which adversely affect soil quality and pH, the first priority is to properly trim off damaged twigs and branches.

Do-it-yourselfers can follow guidelines from a pamphlet available from the Extension Service in Lecanto. (Call 527-5700.) Soil testing kits are available for $2 to $7.

Next, I recommend tilling in a few inches of organic compost or "fine mulch," available free from Central Landfill on State Road 44 east of Lecanto. To help newcomers, my husband, John, can deliver 7 cubic yards in his dump trailer for the cost of trucking.

One yard, 27 cubic feet, spread 2 inches deep covers about 11 by 15 feet - a nice size for a planting bed under a shady live oak.

A light application of time-released fertilizer, like Lesco's Southern Blend 12-2-14 with minor elements, provides proper nutrition for four months and speeds tree recovery. Drive into Lesco's warehouse on the north side of SR 44, off Easy Street, just west of the landfill and several recycling centers.

Professional, well-trained staffers will listen to your needs and provide correct advice. They will load 50-pound bags for you. Seniors can easily scoop it out into gallon bags for easier use and convenient, dry storage when they get home.

Now comes the fun part of gardening: selecting the right plant for the right place.

Summer shade is darker than in winter because the tree canopy is full of new leaves and the sun is directly overhead.

In winter, even "evergreen" oaks such as live, myrtle and laurel oaks drop leaves to form an attractive, natural top dressing over the soil. The lower angle of the winter sun penetrates further beneath the canopy, too. Most flowering shrubs need lots of sunlight to produce a good display: a few relish shade.

If the tree canopy is high, taller plants such as camellias, azaleas, gingers and oak-leaf hydrangeas will thrive. The patented, evergreen Encore azaleas bloom as much as eight months a year rather than just four to five weeks in February and March.

I love the bright masses of bloom and keep a good collection of Encores in my garden. Encores grow 3 to 5 feet tall, depending on the variety. Between taller trees and protected from afternoon summer sun, camellias are a perfect choice.

Camellias are slow-growing evergreen trees and need pruning to be kept as shrubs. Each variety blooms for about one month either early, mid or late season from October to April. Seven plants, wisely chosen, will provide a succession or bloom from fall till spring.

Oak-leaf hydrangea is a native shrub, deciduous in Citrus County.

After the first frost, the large leaves turn burgundy before dropping to expose the attractive, exfoliating bark and open branching structure perfect for hanging Christmas ornaments. Late spring brings huge clusters of white flowers at the tips of last year's wood.

Cut the flower stems; hang upside down to dry in a dark, airy place, then spray-paint for a lasting arrangement. Prune in midsummer for size, shape and more blooms next year.

As a ground cover beneath your shrubs, try evergreen Florida violet, Viola sororia, with purple blooms in winter. Native iris, blue-eyed grass, Sysrinchium angustifolia, makes a nice perimeter border with masses of blooms for as much as six weeks in spring. Add clumps of native spiderwort that bloom from the last March frost to the first frost of fall for a splash of blue every morning.

With careful planning, the bare ground and deep shade beneath a lonely tree can become the prettiest flower bed on the block.

Editor's note: This weekly article is provided by Jane Weber, professional gardener, grower, consultant, designer and environmentalist. Visit her Certified Florida Yard and Backyard Wildlife Habitat, 5019 W Stargazer Lane, Dunnellon. Call (352) 465-0649.

[Last modified September 26, 2006, 06:13:33]


Share your thoughts on this story

Comments on this article
Subscribe to the Times
Click here for daily delivery
of the St. Petersburg Times.

Email Newsletters

ADVERTISEMENT