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Crown the bisque with a gem of a cracker

By KATHY SAUNDERS
Published September 27, 2006

Oyster crackers represent a list of culinary possibilities. They can float atop chowder, soup or bisque. They can hold together a seafood stuffing. Or, they can be crushed into coating for fish, meat or poultry. That's what the manufacturers say. Parents know they also make a great snack for small children - especially when they are offered in a restaurant. My children could put away several tiny packages of the shell-shaped crackers while waiting for any meal at our favorite seafood hangout.

One of the judges for Taster's Choice, also a chef, said he wouldn't dare serve chili without oyster crackers at a country club where he once worked.

Apparently, his customers weren't the only ones who demanded oyster crackers, because the store shelves are lined with them. Taster's Choice tried six brands of oyster crackers with significantly different results.

The crackers vary in size, shape and texture. Some are thick and puffy. Others are flat and wide. We also tasted some that were tiny - not much larger than the stars in Campbell's Chicken & Stars soup.

Our judges favored a fluffy brand, Olde Cape Cod by Westminster Crackers ($2.59 for an 8-ounce box found at Nature's Finest Foods in St. Petersburg). Panelists gave the crackers, described on the box as "individual rafts of Olde Cape Cod flavor," 75 of a possible 100 points.

They described the crackers as pillows. Instead of oysters, they reminded us more of puffer fish.

"These are thick and large with a bit of a nutty flavor," said one judge.

Another said they would go great with her mother's oyster stew. Three of the five judges said they would buy the Olde Cape Cod brand.

Hannaford, the store brand from Sweetbay ($1.49 for a 14-ounce box), was the oyster cracker with the second most points, 72.

"These have a classic, hexagon shape with a great, salty flavor," said one panelist.

"Bring on the chowder," said another.

Again, three of the five judges said they would buy the Hannaford crackers.

Oyster crackers from the health food store took third place. Judges raved about the Hain Pure Foods crackers ($2.89 for a 6-ounce box) and gave the samples 66 points. The same three judges said they would buy the Hain crackers too.

The Hain crackers, "made with organic wheat flour," were smaller than the first two choices, but they packed a lot of flavor.

"These would be a great snack for my kids," said one judge.

A couple said they thought the little crackers might get lost in soup. But the morsels were salty and crunchy enough to hold their own.

Also sampled were oyster crackers from Nabisco ($2.89 for a 10-ounce bag); Publix ($2.09 for an 11-ounce box); and Sunshine Krispy ($2.89 for an 11-ounce box).

Panelists were: Nan Jensen, registered dietitian with Pinellas County Cooperative Extension; Gary Kawalec chef-owner of the Tampa Bay Supper Club in Safety Harbor; personal chef and mother of four, Julie Overton; Cosette Saba and Jim Yockey, manager and aesthetician respectively at Indulgence Medical Day Spa in St. Petersburg. All foods were tasted blind.

Oyster Cracker rankings

1. Olde Cape Cod

2. Hannaford

3. Hain Pure Foods

[Last modified September 26, 2006, 12:30:29]