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Crab claw time: It's like buttah

All four Frenchy's cafes will celebrate the arrival of a seasonal favorite this weekend.

By TERRI BRYCE REEVES
Published October 20, 2006

CLEARWATER BEACH - Pinch yourself; stone crab claws are back.

Those big orange and black pincers stuffed with sweet, succulent white meat began reappearing on menus and in marketplaces Monday.

Frenchy's Restaurants is celebrating the arrival with the 22nd annual Stone Crab Weekend today through Sunday. All four beach venues will have lots of beer, claws and fun. Frenchy's Saltwater Cafe and Rockaway Grill will have tents with live entertainment as well.

Open season lasts from Oct. 15 to May 15.

Owner Mike "Frenchy" Preston couldn't predict the market prices for the stone crab claws, but said they will be sold by the pound at "just above wholesale prices."

"It will be really cheap," he said.

About 10,000 pounds of stone crab claws are expected to be devoured during the festival.

"The crab companies know we're coming and are collecting claws all up and down the west coast of Florida," Preston said.

Besides being tasty, claws are a guilt-free way to enjoy Florida seafood. The lucky little crustaceans don't normally die when their claws are taken. After the crabs are pulled up from traps, crabbers harvest the legal claws (which must be at least 2³/₄ inches long) and throw the oval-shaped critters back into the water, where they are free to reproduce and grow new claws. Stone crabs may regenerate new pincers three of four times during their lives.

Although it is legal to take both claws if they meet the required length, conservationists don't recommend the practice as it greatly reduces the crab's chances for survival.

A caveat for those who may want to catch their own crabs: Florida law states that the stone crabs themselves cannot be harvested. Recreational fishermen should also be aware that claws can't be taken from females with eggs, a recreational fishing license is required, and no claws can be taken between mid May and mid October.

For more information, visit the Web site: myfwc.com/marine/recreational/recstonecrab.htm.

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When Preston arrived in Florida in the 1970s, he had long, curly black hair and a mustache. People used to comment on his striking resemblance to Gabe Kaplan of Welcome Back Kotter, a popular TV show at the time.

Though he looked like Gabe, everyone called him Frenchy because he spoke fluent French; as a youngster, he lived in Quebec.

The nickname stuck.

Preston worked hard to learn the restaurant business through a variety of jobs, from dishwasher to manager.

Twenty-five years ago, he scraped together $5,000 to buy a small restaurant, then known as Gracie's Grotto on Baymont Street. The establishment became Frenchy's Original Cafe.

"It was a hole in the wall; we started out on a shoestring," Preston recalled, looking at an old photo.

The philosophy was simple: Combine a bar and a restaurant, offer fresh seafood at affordable prices, and make it fun and friendly.

"We didn't realize it at the time, but it was a rather innovative concept," he said. "People could come in off the beach in their swimsuits and flip-flops and have a really good meal. We weren't searching for any great success; we just wanted to have a good time and pay the rent."

Success did follow, though.

Within just a couple of years, Frenchy's became a local hot spot with patrons lined up out the door and along the street. Soon after, Preston bought his first boat and opened Frenchy's Seafood Co. to ensure a steady supply of fresh fish. Three more restaurants and a gift shop followed.

Today, the seafood company oversees a fleet of 10 vessels and Frenchy's employs about 200 full-timers. Frenchy's celebrated its 25th milestone with live bands and food and drink specials last weekend.

Preston has seen firsthand the recent transformation of Clearwater Beach, where mom-and-pop motels are being replaced by condo towers, a trend that worries many people.

But to Preston, the jury is still out.

"Fortunately, we aren't totally dependent on tourists," he said. "It's a little early to predict what will happen as we lose hotel rooms, but we have a strong local following that just keeps growing."

[Last modified October 19, 2006, 23:09:45]