Sweet potatoes need extras
By KATHY SAUNDERS
Published November 15, 2006
Yams and sweet potatoes may be interchangeable on most Thanksgiving tables - but when they come from a can they need a lot of help. That was the consensus of the Taster's Choice panelists after sampling seven canned varieties.
Although each of the cans we opened claimed to be filled with yams, the ingredients were really sweet potatoes.
The two vegetables are both roots of tropical vines, but officially they are unrelated. Sweet potatoes are American-grown while yams originate in South America, West Africa and Asia. The sweet potato is sweeter than the starchy yam and is high in beta carotene.
Taster's Choice tried the potatoes right from their syrup-packed cans. We warmed them on the stove, according to the label directions.
While all of the panelists enjoy the orange potato treats on their Thanksgiving tables, none would voluntarily eat them without brown sugar, spices and a layer of melted marshmallows.
That said, we put the syrup-soaked potatoes to the test without the trimmings.
The "yams" from Allen's, in a giant, 7-pound can purchased at GFS Gordon Food Service Marketplace ($4.99), were the best. They were soft and sweeter than the others. They also were a brighter orange.
"I didn't know I could like yams," said one panelist.
"These are beautiful," said another. "I can already taste the brown sugar and marshmallows."
For feeding a crowd, the sweet potatoes sold through GFS would be the best choice. Judges gave Allen's 70 out of 100 points. Three of the five said they would buy the bulk potatoes if they were cooking for a large party.
The second pick was packed in a 15-ounce can from Sylvia's ($1.29 at Sweetbay). These could end up on the holiday tables of at least two panelists - but only if they don't have time to bake and peel fresh sweet potatoes.
Judges gave Sylvia's 54 points and praised the firmness of the potatoes. These were darker than some of the competitors and a couple of judges thought the canning syrup was too thick. Two said they might buy them.
"These are best used in a disaster kit that you hide away in the basement and forget about," said one dissenting voter.
Two votes was the most that the third choice could garner as well. Judges gave sweet potatoes by Glory ($1.99 for a 29-ounce can) 46 points.
The Glory potatoes were creamier than the others and described by one judge as having "a classic flavor."
Another panelist, who described himself as "a nonyam guy," likened the Glory brand to pumpkin pie filling.
The majority, however, disapproved of the brand, saying the potatoes were too stringy.
Also sampled were canned sweet potatoes by Bruce's ($2.39 for a 40-ounce can); Hannaford (79 cents for a 15-ounce can); Sugary Sam ($1.29 for a 15-ounce can); and Cannon ($4.49 for a 6-pound can).
Coming Sunday: In a special holiday Taste section, panelists put marshmallows to the test.
Panelists were Nan Jensen, registered dietitian with Pinellas County Cooperative Extension; Bob Devin Jones, artistic director of Studio@620 personal chef Julie Overton; office manager and father of four, Kevin McAuliffe; and registered nurse Julie Pica. All foods were tasted blind.
Send suggestions for product tasting to Taste section, St. Petersburg Times, P.O. Box 1121, St. Petersburg, FL 33731 or e-mail them to jkeeler@sptimes.com Please put TEST SUGGESTION in the subject line. To read past Taster's Choice columns, go to www.sptimes.com/food.
JUDGE'S RANKINGS
Sweet potatoes
No. 1: Allen's
No. 2: Sylvia's
No: 3: Glory