Weekend: A menu worth 100 helpings

When I first compiled annual lists of Tampa Bay restaurants, I kept it to my 10 best meals of the year. Over time, the list expanded to include each year's best overall dining.

Never in my 17 years as the St. Petersburg Times food critic did I commit myself to a grand, arbitrary number of "Best of" restaurants.

Until now. In my final roundup as restaurant critic, I cite the 100 best restaurants around the Tampa Bay area.

Cooking and dining have improved substantially around the country since I arrived in St. Petersburg in 1990. We are now a nation that quotes Anthony Bourdain, reveres Emeril Lagasse and plots anniversary dinners at Nobu and French Laundry.

Building a food-savvy market takes time. Luckily we have had a few enterprising outfits - such as the Ciccio & Tony's group in Tampa and Eugen Fuhrman, Peter Kreuziger and Frank Chivas on the beaches - willing to give it a go.

We have caught up on sushi bars, sleek bathroom designs and Starbucks and have choices for tapas and small-plate eating.

But we are behind in too many areas, from independent bakeries and farmers' markets to affordable French cafes, regional Italian and contemporary Spanish. And we could use more creative Floribbean or Gulf Coast cooking.

On food I am a sensualist; I like strong flavors, bright contrasts and distinct texture. Starches needn't be boring (see polenta, hash browns, risotto, red rice, etc.) and fish should taste of the sea or the stream. I like my meat licked by fire or smothered in a Dutch oven and my spices fresh off the boat or the camel train.

BEST OF ALL: Five restaurants where chefs seek out the best and freshest ingredients and cook with care and imagination and where hosts and servers, design and ambience conspire to make any meal remarkable.

This is the best new restaurant of 2006 and the most creative effort ever from the tag-team of Frank Chivas and Tom Pritchard (Salt Rock Grill/Island Way Grill). They add a world of tasting to innate knowledge of local waters. Eat small (slick ceviche and tartare by the spoon, oysters by the piece, kettle chips, pear-bacon pizza or crab cake corndogs). Or live large on Maine lobsters and steaks with wild mushrooms and tandoori onions. Either way the drinks are smart and the service smarter.

It's hard to resent chain restaurants when Outback can bring a chef like Roy Yamaguchi and his jeweled fusion of French polish and Asian flavors to our table. Love rack of lamb or Hawaiian fish? Roy's local partners do them up teak-brown, with orchids, breezy guitars and a happy crowd of casual big-spenders. Eat at the bar for clever sushi (or dinner) and get a bonus closeup of a smart kitchen crew. Aloha service, too. My best restaurant of 2005.

Chris Ponte brought elegance to Ulmerton Road and still commands the tasteful high point of Pinellas. Daily, he delivers subtle style, decor and cuisine polished in Paris and New York. From mushroom soup to panna cotta, this is sophisticated cooking. And show-off dining: You might find Wolfgang Puck here when he's filming at the Home Shopping Network nearby. My best restaurant of 2003.

Pacific Wave 211 Second St. S, St. Petersburg; (727) 822-5235, www.pacificwaverestaurant.com

Step inside, and you're on a beautiful course for the Pacific piloted by Peter Tanhnavong and Robert Huffnagle. Naturally, the sushi's brilliant and entrees are prettier, duck with pad Thai noodles or Hawaiian fish in macadamia crust or crispy-skin salmon. Stay for homemade ice cream and to wallow in good service.

SideBern's 2208 W Morrison Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-2233, www.bernssteakhouse.com

Where Bern's is the big-name brawn in wine, steaks and overindulgence, SideBern's is the modern brains and R&D lab. Jeannie Pierola and the next generation of Laxers caught up to contemporary cooking and turned SideBern's into a culinary academy. On the plate, that results in mind-bending entrees, especially great fish paired with exotic vegetables and global seasonings.

BEST ITALIAN: The best bites of the boot are a little light on the tomato and cheese with a heavy accent on regionaflavor and authenticity.

Southern Italian and proud of it, Carmine Cervelli doesn't shrink from tomato sauce. Whether enriched with clams and sea urchin or plain tomato-tomato, he ladles it on heavily. There's a meaty selection of antipasto, squid-ink pasta, homemade mozzarella, fresh fish and taverna charm.

Bella Brava 515 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; (727) 895-5515, www.bellabrava.net

Whether it's eaten on the balconies, at the bar, at a sidewalk table or on oven-side seats, the food is stoutly flavored and strongly accented: grilled Caesar salad, trofie and casoncelli pasta, beans, eggplant, salty salumi and fritto misto as crisp as the pizzas.

The smallest of the warm, welcoming restaurants in the empire descended from Cesar Tini (Caffe Paradiso, Cesar's on the Beach) is hosted by Spartaco Giolito. Cooking is top dollar but simple and generous, big grilled prawns and strozzapetti pasta are straight from Rimini, as is Mom, who may be in the kitchen.

There's nothing rustic about the cooking of Massimo Patano, yet his love of luxurious tastes is decidedly Italian. Veal, lobster and cream sauces abound, and Patano enriches them further with sage, ricotta, balsamic and bottarga. Always creative, always sumptuous and always one of the biggest surprises on U.S. 19.

One of the first to brag on pizzas from wood-fired ovens, Bella's became a staple on the South Tampa social scene. Pizza is still beautifully misshapen and charred, lobster bisque is a wicked treat and the mix-and-match pasta and sauces are plenty of fun. The best bet: creamy tomato with confetti of bacon, peas and tomato.

BEST SEAFOOD: Where fish and shellfish are fresh, diverse and plentiful and prepared with more care than good steak houses give beef; you won't complain there's no good seafood in Florida at any of these.

Snappers Sea Grill 5895 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 367-3550, www.snappersseagrill.com.

A tiny bright spot in the neon strand of Pinellas County beaches, Snappers serves its namesake and other sea fare with the seasons and a bit of silliness - and with a smart wine list and a smart staff.

Mitchell's Fish Market 250 WestShore Plaza, Tampa; (813) 289-3663, www.mitchellsfishmarket.com It hurts to turn to an Ohio chain for seafood, but this savvy outfit has a bigger net than many locals. Oysters change daily; whole fish are cut fresh. The catch can be fried, grilled, stir-fried and so on, but never overcooked. Try with green beans, perfect potatoes and uptown banana bread puddings.

Picnic tables are fine. You know a great seafood house by its patrons (in line) and its suppliers (docked not far away). Starting with the best local fish, Linda and Cesar Labrador add every trick they've learned on their travels from Tarpon to New Orleans, Jamaica to Spain. Charcoaled octopus, gumbo, ceviche, they do it all, plus our own amberjack.

Island Way Grill 20 Island Way, Clearwater Beach; (727) 461-6617, islandwaygrill.com

A waterside palace of seafood, art glass and Asian accents, Island Way centers on freshness. Eat at the sushi bar, order from the raw bar or have boat-fresh fish grilled. Go for an oyster tequila shot, a noodle and clam pot or Korean BBQ and dive into the endless wine list. Be back Sunday for a fishy brunch.

Mystic Fish 3253 Tampa Road, Palm Harbor; (727) 771-1800, www.3bestchefs.com

Veteran chefs added this flash to old North Pinellas several years ago, and it hasn't dimmed. Familiar fish chowder and lobster signatures remain, yet there's always something extra: pork osso bucco, fish grilled with kona, wasabi dill or Thai chilis. Wine list is smartly selected and priced .

BEST HOTEL DINING: Eat in the lap of hotel luxury without popping hundreds for a room.

Pelagia Renaissance International Plaza, 4200 Jim Walter Blvd., Tampa; (813) 313-3235

Fabrizio Schenardi's Italianesque menu starts in Spain and coasts the entire Mediterranean for lusty flavors, scallops and bean ragout, Manchego cheese and honeycomb, crunchy olives and artichoke ricotta flan. Panettone French toast for breakfast.

Maritana Grille Don CeSar Beach Resort and Spa, 3400 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-1881

The pink wedding cake of a hotel appeals to Gatsby memories, and meals in the Maritana Grille are indeed fantasies of the rich and famous. Foie gras, lobster, veal and duck get dolled up with the latest micro greens, truffle oil and clever gnocchis, risotto and polenta.

Rusty's Sheraton Sand Key, 1160 Gulf Blvd., Clearwater Beach; (727) 595-1611

Too many locals pass by the finest cooking on the beaches. Chefs on John Harris' crew give Sand Key an exquisite taste of cooking that's seasonal, handcrafted, local and up-to-date. Even the vodka is infused.

Marchand's and the Terrace Room Renaissance Vinoy Hotel, 501 Fifth Ave. NE, St. Petersburg; (727) 894-1000

The main ballroom of the grand pink hotel, bayside division, is fine hotel dining with steaks, chops and seafood with bright greens and hints of Italy and the Levant. Marchand's is about to emerge from its latest revamping, and its gourmet brunch is guaranteed to remain the most elegant in town.

Put on the down-home Ritz in Sarasota and you'll taste local flavor as well as the chain's culinary fame. Almost everything but the salmon has Florida roots, from heirloom melons and tomatoes to Everglades bass and orange-braised veal shanks.

Savant Fine Dining 2551 Drew St., Clearwater; (727) 421-9975, www.savantfinedining.com

Exquisite intimate meals from a chef who loves great ingredients, from fish and game to chocolate and Caribbean spices. Pay no attention to the PowerPoint on the wall explaining it all. The proof is on your plate.

This intimate reservation-only dining brings Hawaiian grace and style to Oldsmar. What luck to have Brett and Nina Gardiner cater to you like private chefs with terrific vegetables, exquisite sauces and brilliant presentation. A great treat.

Mise en Place 442 W Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 254-5373, www.miseonline.com

New American doesn't get old when Marty Blitz is in the kitchen and the likes of walnut duck and thyme escolar are on the menu. He and partner Maryann Ferenc pioneered here 20 years ago; their spot is now a downtown Tampa shrine and the skillet's still hot. Game, vegetables, fish and fruits get blitzed with global spice and Southern comforts.

In this intimate hideaway, Dominic Christini has a trapdoor that leads from Largo to Languedoc, Provencal and the rest of France. From pates to unknown wines, this is top-rate dining, with a fresh menu every two weeks in a variety of regional accents.

Black Pearl 315 S Main St., Dunedin; (727) 734-3463, www.theblackpearlofdunedin.com

Folks have come here for grand meals under various flags for more than 20 years. The space is tiny with plush decor and posh service. The food ranges from top-dollar classics to clever contemporary fare among the specials, all with first-rate vegetables.

BEST BARGAINS: Where even $10 buys great ingredients, care in the kitchen and smart flavors your taste buds can dance to.

Pane Rustica 3225 S MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 902-8828, www.panerustica.com

The baking, roasting and bistro-ing with fire and spice and olives goes on all day, starting with crisp 'n' crazy pizzas (fried egg or pork chop if you're lucky) and sandwiches built for two on hearty hearth-fresh breads. Dinner's more, yet still a great value for no-fear cooking: cumin steaks, pumpkin ravioli and carrot-clam chowder.

Fly Bar & Restaurant 1202 N Franklin St., Tampa; (813) 275-5000, www.flybarandrestaurant.com

The high-energy new eatery/drinkery in downtown's condo-struction zone aims for an exposed-brick big city vibe and delivers small-plate fun at small-town prices. Great fish cakes, lamb stew and hanger steak, and always get a plate of frites a trois.

Kelly's for Just About Anything 319 Main St., Dunedin; (727) 736-5284, www.kellyschicaboom.com

You never know what Virgel Kelly and his crew will add to flapjacks, grilled cheese, Cornish hens, diver scallops or big ol', pork chops. Maybe nori-crust, hazelnut stuffing or saffron fennel cream. Wines are serious and smart, the decor loony, indoors and out. If you don't have fun, go to the Chic-A-Boom Room next door for a pink and perky martini.

Backfin Blue Cafe 2913 Beach Blvd. S, Gulfport; (727) 343-2583, www.backfinbluecafe.com

Come to the little house under the oaks. Sit on the screen porch or inside. The best of the old favorites - meat loaf, crab cake, prime rib and fish - are served warmly and simply. Harold Russell's efforts will make you want to eat your vegetables.

This is French cooking done affordably, from house pates and crepes to roast chicken and Provencal pizza. It's bright, genteel and easy on the wallet.

BEST ART RESTAURANTS: Feasts for the eyes that mix art, food and funk in varying proportions and whisk in whimsy to make meals and snacks of pure idiosyncrasy.

The new digs are bigger, yet it only means more room for a wide spectrum of Safety Harbor's native artwork and Paul Kapsalis' equally imaginative cooking. From Greek pizza lunches to full dinners and bar munchies.

Funky, global whimsy takes many forms here, from flavored coffees to Rice Krispies Treats, sloppy Joes, poetry readings and gospel brunches. Don't expect to see anything twice except cartoonist/barista Josh Sullivan and owner JoEllen Schilke.

Zante Cafeneo 13 N Safford Ave., Tarpon Springs; (727) 934-5558, www.zantecafe.com

This is not a gallery, more like a living collage, the family restaurant as performance art. All the antiques, children's toys and children are packed into a tiny shop. The food roams the waterfronts from Greece to New Orleans, the spirit from garden party to bohemian.

Craftsman House 2955 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; (727) 323-2787, www.craftsmanhousegallery.com

The lush pottery is homegrown, the woodworking and art are a delight and the rehabbing a pleasure. Garden party soups, salads, muffins, coffee and beer make you want to laze on the porch all day.

You might consider all of Ozona a work of art, half primitive, half New Age. This tiny spot , with its Colombian-Italian spread of panini, arepas, espresso and fruit tarts, has the owner's artwork and good seats to bask in Ozona's shade and vibe.

BEST BEER: Places that give beer the respect it deserves, crafted like good bread and as complex as fine wine.

Dunedin Brewery 937 Douglas Ave., Dunedin; (727) 736-0606, www.dunedinbrewery.com

Our smartest local brewers are the most fun. Eat pub grub and drink in the brewery's mix of shiny metals, bright red and blue and Dunedin plaid. Love the ales - Piper, Red Head and Beach Tale Brown - and wait eagerly for the annual Old Mean Stout. The taste in live music is just as fresh and hoppy.

Tampa Bay Brewing Co. 1600 E Eighth Ave., Tampa; (813) 247-1422, www.tampabaybrewing company.com

Almost a dozen beers are brewing here in sparkling new Centro Ybor digs, from light to stout. And the place cooks as well as it brews, with beer in vinaigrettes, pizza, ice cream and glazes. Eat as heartily as you drink.

Four Green Fields 205 W Platt St., Tampa; (813) 254-4444, www.fourgreenfields.com

It's not home brew, but Guinness from the auld sod is revered here. Few places draw it with as much style, and no others serve it under a thatch roof.

The "local" for beer fanciers in downtown St. Pete stocks the priciest and most unique drinks Belgium, Poland and the rest of beerlandia send our way.

Mad Dogs and Englishmen 4115 S MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 832-3037, www.maddogs.com.

Tampa Bay is blessed with a variety of pubs, and this one has the most charm on tap, fine beers, rosy cheeked publicans and smart pub eating with the spice of the colonies at every meal, including brunch.

This is true big city, indie style dining: sharp, chef-driven cooking in a plain storefront space in a not yet gentrified neighborhood. Choose foie gras, crispy rabbit, killer soups, scallops and peas, chicken and quinoa. Every course is a robust adventure, from small plates to dessert.

Peruvian nightlife comes to downtown Sarasota thanks to chef Darwin SantaMaria. He turns out stunning ceviches and a beautiful version of old Peruano favorites lomo salteado, cod stews and purple potatoes. Plus venison, osso bucco and sassy cocktails.

Rustic Grill 400 Lemon Ave., Sarasota; (941) 906-1111, www.rusticgrillsarasota.com

Fast forward the old Citrus Exchange into the 21st century with boisterous antiques and brilliant cooking to eyeball (on TV or at the chef's bar). Clinton Combs dresses lusty chops, steaks and crab cakes with amazing vegetables, risotto and chickpea crepes.

Well-established and still innovative, this two-chef restaurant serves sharp and simple cuisine with a sidewalk view downtown. Seasonal ingredients, global flavors and recipes make friendly fusion from game, foie gras and artisan cheeses to roast chicken and flatbread pizza.

The Table 1934 Hillview St., Sarasota; (941) 365-4558, www.thetablesarasota.com

More Peruvian, sort of, and more wild imagination: Beef short ribs in ginger root beer barbecue sauce is hearty fun in English or Spanish. Along with clever ceviche (of course), albarino grapes, tempura rock shrimp, pumpkin, lentils and chorizo from all over the Americas. Wrapped up in a sophisticated package in Southside Village with a smart bar on the side.

BEST FISH FRY: Old-fashioned seafood joints with sand in their parking lots, low prices, high standards and real grouper.

Billy's Stone Crab and Lobster 1 Collany Road, Tierra Verde; (727) 866-2115, www.billysstonecrab.com

Billy Moore keeps it simple - old Cracker Southern sides and fresh fish he lands along the gulf. Grouper, mackerel, mullet and, of course, stone crab, as the season and market allow, fresh and fairly priced.

The owners and their pals fill the kitchen at the end of the dock with local shrimp, grouper and crab. They're cooked with a Greek kiss of olive oil, cheese grits, corn casserole and a good beer list.

Dockside Dave's 119 Boardwalk Place, Madeira Beach, (727) 392-9399; and 7141 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach, (727) 360-4200

Dave's legendary dive fell to development, but even in a new spot, the fish sandwiches here are still king of the beach. Best with tomatoes, and onion rings. Fish-phobes can try Buffalo's own beef on 'weck.

Walter Gerbase used to make Dockside Dave's grouper. Now he's got his own tiki hit at the end of the John's Pass midway. You might luck into amberjack or cobia or a Buffett-worthy sunset. You'll always get great yucca fries.

Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish 1350 Pasadena Ave. S, South Pasadena; (727) 381-7931

Mullet has made these waters famous for years. For a rich taste of the "cracker salmon," come to this historic fish shack for mullet, amberjack or mackerel. Too fishy for you? Have a burger.

BEST MEDITERRANEAN: Tours of the eastern and southern corners of the great sea of olive oil, where fish, lamb and plants are seasoned with cinnamon, oregano and accents of Greece, Lebanon and Morocco.

Loud and crowded and why not? Tourists who squeeze in among the locals get a true taste of Greek in anything grilled in lemon and oregano.

Byblos 2832 S MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 805-7977, web.tampabay.rr.com/byblos

The local rebirth of Middle Eastern cuisine gets its most stylish display thanks to smart Lebanese entrepreneurs. Yogurt, grape leaves and kibbe are deliciously fresh.

Karim Chiadmi knows the whole of the Mediterranean, from lush French sauces and bouillabaisse to veal Marsala and onto a mezze full of hummus, eggplant, olives. Service is impeccable and warm.

Louis Pappas Market Cafe 2560 N McMullen-Booth Road, Clearwater; (727) 797-3700, plus four locations in Tampa, one in St. Petersburg and one in Lakeland, www.louispappas.com

Under Louis Pappas, the late grand colossus of the Tarpon Springs sponge docks has been miniaturized into seven branches. It now fits many more on-the-go neighborhoods and lifestyles with Greek salad (potato style), pita sandwiches or hearty leg of lamb and moussaka .

Cafe Alma 260 First Ave. S, St. Petersburg; (727) 502-5002, www.cafealma.com

This touches the tastiest parts of every coast: sausages and bean casseroles from Spain, eggplants and beets from Italy, bouillabaisse and mussels from France and the lamb tagine across the sea. Smart drinking, friendly bar plus a Saturday brunch.

BEST WINE: Restaurants where the wine can be as much fun as the food, where proprietors take special care and pride in the wines they love.

Crystal River Wine and Cheese Co. 734 U.S. 19, Crystal River; (352) 795-0008

Plainly put and enough said: Eating and drinking in a wine store is always a treat and a bargain. Here, explore a world of wine and homegrown goat cheese from Lecanto's Golden Fleece. Full dinners are smart and clever.

Bob Heilman's Beachcomber (727) 442-4144, www.heilmansbeach comber.com; and Bobby's Bistro, (727) 446-9463, www.bobbysbistro.com. Both at 447 Mandalay Ave., Clearwater Beach

Old-timers know Heilman's for its fried chicken and clubby Manhattans. Insiders know it for wine - especially pinot noir - from elegant Burgundy to upstart Oregon, where Bob Jr. has his own vineyard.

The Columbia 2117 E Seventh Ave., Tampa; (813) 248-4961, www.columbiarestaurant.com

After 100 years, the queen of Ybor has as many Spanish wines as it does tiles, yellow, blue and quixotic. The Spanish delegation fills 40 pages of the list. Smaller selections at other Columbia locations.

The sauce is red, pasta simple, seafood fresh and wine endless, as it should be in a restaurant shaped like a wine barrel. The wine is under the trapdoor in a real cellar; the specialty is, naturally, Italian.

Tio Pepe 2930 Gulf-to-Bay Blvd., Clearwater; (727) 799-3082, www.tiopeperestaurant.com

Old Spanish restaurants revere straightforward food and fine wine. Tio Pepe's has served them to Clearwater and seasonal visitors with avuncular hospitality for decades. From snapper to fine beef and lamb, there's wine to match.

BEST LATIN: Places to practice your Spanish, to wallow in the comfort of ropa vieja, black beans and rice from Cuba or learn new words at the tapas bar.

Felix Piedras brings us the taste of San Sebastian's grand resorts, the jewel of the Basque country, and the colorful mosaics of Barcelona. The menu ranges from rustic tapas of oxtail and cod to grand affairs of lamb chops, pheasant or seafood bisques, so tread lightly and take time.

Ceviche Tapas Bar 2109 Bayshore Blvd., Tampa, (813) 250-0203; 10 Beach Drive NE, St. Petersburg, (727) 209-2299, www.cevichetapas.com

That cocktail of marinated fish is only one item on the biggest spread of hot and cold tapas laid out on both sides of the bay. The Tampa location is dark and cozy, St. Pete's open to the embarcadero. Crowds and food are fast and fun: olives, quail, sherried chicken livers and albondigas.

La Teresita 3248 W Columbus Drive, Tampa, (813) 879-9704; and 7101 66th St. N, Pinellas Park, (727) 546-5785

This is lunch counter Cuban at its heartiest and cheapest with strong Cuban coffee, thick bean soups, thin palomilla steaks and hefty pork sandwiches. The most fun is 24-hour eating in the Tampa sandwich shop.

Valencia Garden 811 W Kennedy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 253-3773, www.valenciagarden.com

One of the oldest paella palaces for power lunch and dinner on the classics, our own trout a la rusa and chicken with yellow rice. For a change, try beef with the tang of Argentina's chimichurri sauce.

Tampa's blessed with many steam-table cafeterias. Thank goodness three are Pipo's, dishing up the best roast pork ever to sidle up to rice and beans or snuggle up in a loaf of Cuban bread.

BEST STEAK: Hangouts for carnivores who love red meat and red wine yet hunger for even more: great sides, smart service and style.

Bern's Steak House 1208 S Howard, Tampa; (813) 251-2421, www.bernssteakhouse.com

Naysayers can grouse, but there's no denying the fine meat and one of the world's best and cheapest wine lists. You can drink back 20 years in Spanish Italians, Rhones and zins for $75 or less. Lighten up and relax; just exploring the menu's new additions takes time. Dessert takes more.

Salt Rock Grill 19325 Gulf Blvd, Indian Shores; (727) 593-7625, www.saltrockgrill.com

The first modern surf and turf joint on the beaches still packs them in with red-hot, straight-ahead cooking. Steaks are first-rate, lobsters monstrous, wine cellar deep , seafood and fish souped up in spicy broth. The unexpected treats are root vegetables, lentils and smart spicing.

Fleming's Prime Steakhouse and Winebar 4322 W Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa; (813) 874-9463, www.flemingssteakhouse.com

Outback cooked up a higher class venue here with first-rate trimmings. Sharp staff, smart wines, a broad menu and expansive hospitality, updated beyond showoff beef-offs. Fine steak in prime comfort starts with onion soup.

Spoto's Steak Joint 4871 Park St. N, St. Petersburg; (727) 545-9481, www.spotossteakjoint.com

This low-frills, old-fashioned steakery comes from the equally old-fashioned Chicago stockyard savvy and meat buying of Bob Spoto and son. This is serious meat, prime rib to porterhouse, with creamed spinach and baked potatoes.

Capital Grille 2223 N West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 830-9433, www.thecapitalgrille.com

The newest top-dollar chain steakhouse does it right. The setting is big-bucks clubby, the beef dry-aged and the trimming way above average: espresso and porcini rubs, Cognac sauces, wild mushrooms and truffle fries.

BEST MEXICAN: Eat with our neighbors from the south, folks who know chile from chili.

Red Mesa 4912 Fourth St. N, St Petersburg; (727) 527-8728, www.redmesarestaurant.com

Old hands deliver regional authenticity and modern imagination, starting with Sunday breakfast burritos and chilaquiles. Lunch and dinner dig into chipotle oysters, duck breast and queso stuffed chops as well as pork verde.

Mexico Lindo 812 Court St., Clearwater, (727) 443-5892; and 6050 Park Blvd., Pinellas Park, (727) 547-1717

The taqueria has expanded with a spectrum of meats and moles in hailing distance of the carniceros at the butcher counter. Come on weekends for menudo.

Real Mexican for workers who pick up their lunch before dawn. Full choice of beef, pork, lamb, chicken, barbacoa and steam-table hearties. Don't pass up the ceviche.

One of the first Mexican restaurants with a difference: veggie-friendly cooking in a no-lard zone. All the usuals, plus crab enchiladas, stuffed squash, cactus salads, posole and fresh moles and a lively Day of the Dead observance.

Hold the Tex, this is Cal-Mex from San Diego with a bit of funky fusion. Fine fish tacos, burritos and such for lunch; dinner goes uptown with steak, big chops, fresh fish, shrimp in beer cream. Finish with Mexican chocolate creme brulee.

BEST GLOBAL: Exotic vacations on a plate with rare flavor from the Punjab to the Caribbean.

When Helena Josephs tends to the jerk pan and dutchie oven, her peppers, cinnamon and curry turn cod, cabbage, goat and such into fancies for the eye and taste buds. Her lilt and seasoning make this grocery a place of beauty.

The red bean trail turns out be quite sophisticated when you reach La Casona. Puerto Rico's cuisine - from fritters to plantain mash - is done with great seafood and style, toasted with wine and sweet desserts.

Laziz 2475 N McMullen-Booth Road, Clearwater; (727) 797-7541, lazizonline.com

Indian dining has a new home in Pinellas, sleek in decor and vigorously authentic in spice. Laziz boasts a full breadbasket of naan poori and paratha, tandoori dishes and a garden full of vegetarian entrees.

Vietnam's bright noodle salads, beefy stews and broth full of fresh herbs have proved to be one of the best ethnic cuisines on the Florida menu.

Latin American Grill Argentinian Steakhouse, 3780 Tampa Road, Oldsmar; (813) 855-0332

Steaks, sweetbreads and barbecue from the range and the big cities of Brazil and Argentina are carefully fire-cooked and served in big quantities.

BEST ASIAN: Sources of fun with rice, noodles and rice noodles, plus bok choy, ginger and char siu pork, and a caravan of flavors from all along the Spice Route.

B.T. Nguyen presents the flavors of Asia with a style of her own, half feng shui, half fashion model, and all hard work from hot stove to perfect tables in the coolest space in Old Hyde Park. Squid salad, tofu hotpot, lamb spare ribs and pumpkin soup are as subtle and smooth as the service.

Chinese food doesn't get better, simpler or cheaper than this little spot in north Tampa. Barbecued pork, duck and chicken hang above the counter, awaiting your command. Have some and save room for salt and pepper shrimp, fresh greens and claypot eggplant.

The longest menu in town and the freshest inventory, even if you don't count the best dim sum dumplings. T.C. Choy's takes the best of Oceanic Market - swimming fish, softball oysters and ever-ready Peking duck - and adds a top chef and a big crew who know all of China, sushi and more.

Thai and sushi combine again in a disco clash of uptown dining in downtown St. Pete. The Thai is first-rate, hot and crispy, from whole snapper to yummy yums; the sushi is its equal, not a sideline, from uni to special hand roll treats.

Ivory Mandarin Bistro 2192 Main St., Dunedin; (727) 734-3998, www.ivorybistro.com

Longtime favorite chef Jeffrey Wu does his old Dragon Phoenix tricks with bright fresh vegetables, duck and seafood, and more. For true goods, see the Chinese men for dried scallops, squid with mustard greens, veal, ribs and gray sole.

BEST SUSHI: Where fish are rare and rare art and the flavor is as fine as it is fashionable.

Kiku 483 Mandalay Ave.. Clearwater Beach; (727) 461-2633, www.clearwaterbeachkiku.com

There is no better place to say "omakase" than to the blade master here, Daniel Chong. Might as well surrender; you need his guidance to enjoy the rare fish, subtle sake and seasoning savvy. A sublime journey. My best of 2004.

Samurai Blue 1600 E Eighth Ave., Tampa, (813) 242-6688; and 12950 Racetrack Road, Oldsmar, (813) 341-6688

Smart sushi, sharp sake and the fieriest beef tartare that Seoul cooking can make. Plus the Tampa location's 30-foot ceilings shelter one of the few great spaces and hip crowds to survive the malling of Ybor City.

One of the reliable suppliers is this quiet but busy spot in the MacDill gourmet cluster. Students, professors, military brass and locals fill the small bar, snare tables or sit sockless at tatami for tempura, bento boxes and clever sushi.

Tokyo Bay Sushi 5901 Sun Blvd., Isla del Sol, St. Petersburg; (727) 867-0770

The place is small, yet the menu is big and creative with sushi, sashimi, tempura and a long list of vegetarian choices. That's thanks to a well-traveled host and sushi chef.

Hook's 1210 Martin Luther King St. N, St. Petersburg; (727) 898-4665, www.hookssushi.com

In 10 years, the happy chef known as Hook has been a fixture at a variety of addresses. Now he sticks to one place where he makes Thai salads with zing, turns out Korean dishes and makes crisp tempura and inventive sushi. The welcome is as warm as the usuzukuri is slick and cool.

CHEAP THRILLS: Eat for a couple of bucks, often standing up, and put real taste and a sense of place in your mouth.

Or pistachio. Ice cold, a little sweet, a little tart or nutty, ice cream improves any Florida day. We're lucky to have great gelato at Gelateria del Duomo in International Plaza in Tampa, or Paciugo in St. Petersburg, fresh paletas in any Mexican tienad, and Largo's Working Cow ice cream. Pushcart hot dogs

St. Petersburg's Central Avenue is good hunting, but there are many others. I want my dogs, brats or kielbasas fully dressed: mustard, kraut and red onion.

Dim sum dumplings, the street food China eats for breakfast and lunch, can be found in a few Chinese restaurants. Steamed buns and puff pastry filled with barbecue pork, black beans and more are great snacks fresh from the bakery. Try Joans Ann Bakery, 2705 54th Ave N, St. Petersburg, (727) 525-0632; or Xie's Oriental Bakery, 8502 N Armenia Ave., Tampa, (813) 930-6331.

Cuba liked its coffee stout-hearted long before Starbucks. So in many Cuban-American sandwich shops and groceries, there's a well-run espresso machine behind the counter. Find one and they pump out sturdy shots, sometimes brewed with sugar in the coffee, for a buck or less.

Take a baguette, add ham, pork or chicken, spread with pate and garnish with cilantro, mint, carrots, onions, pepper and rice vinegar. That's a world traveling hoagie that's bright and lively on the tongue. Check Asian groceries and Vietnamese restaurants.

BEST TAKEOUT: When there isn't time to cook, there are lots of alternatives to the drive-through.

Wright's Gourmet House 1200 S Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 253-3838, www.wrightsgourmet.com

Mrs. Wright wrote the book on takeout and the recipes for beef martini sandwiches and drop-dead cakes 50 years ago. Don't sweat standing in line; everyone in front of you knows that a slice of Hummingbird cake or a Golden Gate sandwich of pork and bacon is worth it.

Mazzaro's 2909 22nd Ave. N, St Petersburg; (727) 321-2400, www.mazzarosmarket.com

Fresh bread, good wine, a butcher counter, the widest array of cheeses and the most crowded parking lot in St. Petersburg would be attraction enough. But belly up to the deli counter and take home a monster sandwich stuffed with fries inside, or more prudently, explore the prepared goods, meat, salad and vegetables with lively spicing.

Fresh pasta cut your way, thick or thin, twirly shapes and pillows in a rainbow of colors, shapes and flavors. Sauces are ready to go, too. Too much work? Try chicken lasagna or chef-cooked entrees from lamb to shrimp.

Here and in parts of Michigan are the only spots you can luck into Ya Ya's healthful fast food, flame-grilled chicken with a Greek accent. Stick with beans and coleslaw or have pita and honey butter.

This little shopping center has more than its share of good eating, and you can take one of the best home with you. At Mecca, takeout went uptown to Asian noodles, panini and lots of salads, made fresh and with extra style. Check the blackboard for dinners to go.

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Comments on this article

by Eric	03/03/08 10:31 AM
I like this list of restaurants but I think you should look at Ponte's Tuscan Grill; it surely deserves a place on this list.

by DeeDee	07/16/07 12:01 PM
What about authentic Portuguese or Brazilian restaurants? Any good ones in the area?

by Zoe	06/03/07 12:32 PM
We refer to your list often.We have tried many of the places on your recommedation.However, one of our very favorite places is not on your list and we wonder why? Whistle Stop Grill Safety Harbor. Always good food and a great time. A little gem!

by Florine	05/29/07 06:27 AM
Moved here recently and my son sent me this wonderful list. We almost use it like a Bible -- and so far haven't been disappointed. Went to Cafe Alma and Bella Brava and both restaurants can compare to the best. Anxious to try more. Thanks.

by Paul	05/21/07 07:12 PM
While he would irritate me with his insistenCE comments on restaurant's recipe, I always respected (and admired) his objective observations on menu, selection, and service/presentation. The sad result of his "retirement", NO LONGER TIMES IN TOP 10.

by RHONDA	04/06/07 09:08 AM
GREAT LIST, BUT IN YOUR RETIREMENT, HOW ABOUT A LIST FOR LOWER INCOME RETIREES, WHO STILL LOVE TO EAT OUT? MOM & POP DINERS, SMORGASBOARDS W/BEST VALUE, ETC. THINK THERE IS A REAL NEED FOR THIS.

by Jim	02/18/07 04:34 PM
Having eaten in the finest restaurants in the world for 45 years,my standards are even higher than Mr. Shermans.He did however nail it most of the time.Be aware of what he had to work with,this is Tampa Bay not New York or Paris.Thanks Chris.

by Granny	02/14/07 02:58 PM
Thanks so much for intro to Zante Cafeneo. Loved it, taking Red Hatters there in December. But, why no barbeque ratings and what about Whistle Stoop in Safety Harbor and Cafe Alfresco in Dunedin. Two favorites of mine.

by Judi	01/29/07 10:03 PM
Did Danny pay you not to include the Brown Dog Cafe in your Best 100 list? Also I cannot believe you are still there after we escaped 16 yrs. ago.

by Mark	01/29/07 07:58 PM
Chris, Thank you for getting it right every week for 17 years. Dining out in Tampa Bay is LOT more risky now. Keep eating and keep updating this guide. In critque, credibility is everything. You never sold us out. WHO else could we say that about?!?!

by Cali	01/27/07 12:29 PM
Best Cuban- Joe's on 13th Ave. N and approx. 20th St.look for the line out the door of what looks like an old store- Get there b4 noon or they may be sold out

by Kevyn	01/20/07 12:56 PM
OK, but where can you go these days for an AUTHENTIC Cuban sandwich?

by Jennifer	01/13/07 07:55 AM
How about a list of the best in dinning for people on limited incomes. I'm sure there are great family restaurants in the Tampa Bay area.

by Ch	01/04/07 09:53 PM
I'll try the few of these that I haven't been to, particularly any place with good pasta dishes, but I have yet to find one better than Pastinos in Largo.

by judy Livingston	01/04/07 01:34 PM
Chris, we will miss your column from the Times!!! good luck to you in your in your retirement. Loved this list!!!

by Ursula	01/04/07 01:21 AM
Todd & Chandler.Do you think an AWARD winning food writer/critic would purposely omit a decaying institution like Donetello with out cause? Have any one of you heard of Mobile or AAA ratings? LOL! Top 5 in Florida? 20 years ago maybe. Now not so much

by Chandler	01/03/07 12:20 PM
Perhaps it is time to step down,Chris. How can anyone who calls himself a food critic ingnore the fact that Donatello's is one of the top 5 restaurants in Florida,not just the Bay area?! And you didn't include Berns in your best wine category? Hello!

by RalphSitero	01/01/07 09:42 PM
"There, is no sincerer love, than the love of food" George Bernard Shaw wrote that and Mr. Sherman lives and works by it. He was to Tampa Bay what Craig Claiborne was to New York/America

by B.T.	12/30/06 07:27 PM
Michel de Montaigne wrote "The art of eating well is no slight art, the pleasure is not a slight pleasure". Best of luck to you Mr. Sherman

by Ray	12/29/06 10:18 AM
Sorry to read that you are leaving the critic job. You've done a great service both to the critics' craft, and to those of us who love great food.

by Austin	12/28/06 09:51 PM
Time to retire, Chris. You open by saluting Peter Kreuziger, yet do not mention Bon Appetit or any other of "his' restaurants, where Chef Karl Riedl always has and still does all the work while Peter travels the globe.

by Charlie	12/28/06 05:21 PM
Sorry Michael, but Alberto's is no New York Pizza....it's just ok....try Allessi's in Tampa for great New Haven pizza though.....ask them not to put too much sauce on, and you will get the real deal

by Harold Ford	12/28/06 03:16 PM
This is ridiculous -- I died, and this is the lead story on St. Pete Times online. What a joke!

by Todd	12/28/06 01:37 PM
A "Best Italian" List without Donatello's on Dale Mabry is not a "Best Italian" List...

by Adam	12/28/06 10:59 AM
Conspicuously absent from the "Best Asian" list is Bangkok Thia on Central Ave. in St. Petersburg. The restaurant is as good as ANY restaurant in town--certainly better than Ratchada--and the prices make the experience the best value in town.

by Jeff	12/28/06 10:27 AM
Left a few out! steaks-Shula's Tampa, Lobster Pot-Redington Shores, Mexican-Carmelita's or Los Mariachi's Clwr./Largo area. As far as pie Queens, CPI (Country Pizza Inn) rock been around this area for decades, Sorry Alberto's. Fairway pizza in PH too

by Sherry	12/28/06 09:22 AM
Chris, thanks for all of your "tasty" articles.Now,with the top 100..I have a great project for the New Year! Look forward to seeing you feature articles.

by Cat	12/28/06 08:18 AM
Wonderful list - many of my favorites. Nice to have it for choosing where to go on those "special" occasions

by Michael	12/28/06 06:39 AM
The best pizza in Florida is Alberto's in Oldsmar. Order the large pie, which seems a little more consistent. If you like NY Italian pizza, you'll love this. If you like Chicago pizza, go to Chicago.

Restaurant review

A menu worth 100 helpings

Before restaurant critic Chris Sherman pushes away from the table for the last time, he reflects on the ever-improving food experiences available in the Tampa Bay area while lamenting the shortcomings that still persist.