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Culinary safari

Celebrated chef Marcus Samuelsson embraces his homeland in a highly praised cookbook.

By DONNA PIERCE
Published January 3, 2007

Long before his first return to Ethiopia as an adult, Marcus Samuelsson developed a travel strategy. Sampling seasonings, condiments, breads and spreads became the chef's way of introducing himself to unfamiliar countries. Ethiopia was no exception. After learning firsthand the nuances involved in preparing injera bread and berbere, a type of chili powder flavored with ground fenugreek seeds and cardamom, he felt compelled to learn more.

Samuelsson's curiosity about his homeland inspired him to research food traditions from the rest of the African continent. With his background - he is Ethiopian but was raised in Sweden and has traveled the world - Samuelsson was the perfect person to write The Soul of a New Cuisine: A Discovery of the Foods and Flavors of Africa (Wiley, $40)

Instead of a scholarly collection of recipes separated by regions and culled for authenticity, Samuelsson's book stirs the pot, fusing European, Asian and African traditions into a modern blend of flavors he hopes will find a way into American kitchens. The result includes more than 200 recipes and 250 color photos and has the Chicago Tribune's nod as cookbook of the year.

The Soul of a New Cuisine sparkles with color, intriguing recipes and informative tidbits inspired by the research Samuelsson conducted in the four years after that first visit, during vacations from his New York restaurants Aquavit, AQ Cafe at Scandinavia House and Riingo.

It's easy to forget that the soft-spoken Samuelsson often is described as a "celebrity" chef who in 2000 ranked No. 5 in People magazine's list of 100 most eligible bachelors. He demurs when you mention this; he would rather talk about your grandmother's fudge recipe or a dish he is beginning to explore.

It also is easy to understand how he was able to coax recipes as well as invitations to cook in home kitchens from the people he encountered during his journey through Africa. Photographs throughout his book by Gediyon Kifle feature the chef quietly listening while people share information about ingredients.

In an interview, Samuelsson explains that the first trip to Ethiopia made him hungry for more. "I knew that there was more to Africa than famine or celebrity," he says. "But that's the image portrayed in the news. I wanted to show that the middle exists."

In 1999, when he returned from Ethiopia, Samuelsson searched the shelves of several Manhattan bookstores for cookbooks describing African cuisine.

He came up short.

"There were hundreds of books about Italy. Other cuisines were well covered. The cookbook section was huge; there were so many recipes . . . so many stories. . . . But such a small African story," Samuelsson says.

Now there's one more.

A long journey

Samuelsson, named Kassahun Tsegie after his birth in an Ethiopian village two hours north of Addis Ababa, spent the first part of his life in an orphanage with his older sister, Fantaye. (Their birth mother died during a tuberculosis epidemic.) He was 3 when Swedes Ann Marie and Lennart Samuelsson adopted the siblings and changed their names to Marcus and Linda.

"I had no memories of Ethiopia," he recalls. "Always in the back of my mind I dreamed of and yearned for the day I would visit Africa again."

But not before his Swedish grandmother inspired him with an interest in Scandinavian cooking. Culinary studies and European apprenticeships broadened his scope. A stint as a chef on an international cruise ship introduced him to exotic port cities and foreign ingredients.

The journey to Ethiopia didn't happen until he had made a name for himself at Aquavit, where he was the youngest chef to earn three stars in a New York Times review.

At the time, Samuelsson says, he knew more about European ingredients and cooking techniques than about African food or recipes. But he was determined to learn more about his heritage by way of a route he knew best: recipes. Because many recipes he sought had been passed down through oral tradition, there was no time to waste.

He asked questions, spent time breaking bread with strangers, shopping in local outdoor markets, discussing the day's catch with fishermen.

Samuelsson's book points to slow-cooked dishes infused with spicy peppers and ingredients such as couscous, cassava, okra, plantains, rice, yams and sweet potatoes as characteristics of many African dishes.

"Couscous followed me from Morocco to Senegal, Ghana, Kenya and the Cameroon," he writes. "Pap, grits and polenta are similar dishes made with cornmeal."

A handful of dishes included in the book traveled farther than most. Samuelsson includes several recipes that crossed the Atlantic Ocean as a result of the slave trade, the African Diaspora.

"West African food took on a life of its own when it was transplanted to the United States, evolving into the soul food you find all over the country today," he writes.

The sheer abundance of ingredients and flavors is overwhelming, but Samuelsson does not want cooks to feel intimidated.

"I'm not expecting people to read this book and then suddenly begin cooking full African meals. Pick and choose. I divided them into categories instead of regions to help you easily slip African dishes into your menus."

"But it's just a start. It's time for African cuisine to be appreciated, understood and cooked in this country, the way European and Asian food is appreciated. In fact, it's long overdue," he says.

Personal discovery

The project that began as a way of understanding his ties to Africa became personal when he met his biological father in the village Samuelsson had left as a 3-year-old. His father, Tsegie (only last names are used for elders), is a priest, a farmer and a father to eight children, who are Samuelsson's half-siblings.

"Discovering this ready-made family in the Ethiopian highlands completely personalized Africa for me and reopened old questions of what my life might have been if that twist of fate hadn't sent me to Sweden," Samuelsson writes.

"But one thing I know, this book has made a big difference in my life. After learning so many things about Africa firsthand . . . I'm a better chef because of my research, because of this book. I'm a curious person. I have a lot more to learn. And that's what I want to do . . . inspire people to learn more."

Samuelsson is donating 20 percent of his royalties to the U.S. Fund for UNICEF and its charitable programs.

Seafood Stew (Malata)

1/3 cup peanut oil

1 cup peanuts

1 pound butternut squash, seeded, diced into 1-inch cubes

1 medium Spanish onion, diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

4 bird's eye chilies, seeded, ribbed, finely chopped, see note

1 piece (3 inches long) ginger root, peeled, minced

4 dozen littleneck clams, scrubbed

1/2 cup each: bottled clam juice, dry white wine

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

1/2 teaspoon salt

4 cups coarsely chopped spinach

Lime wedges

- Heat oil in a large saute pan over high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the peanuts, butternut squash, onion and garlic; saute until the onion is translucent, about 10 minutes. Stir in the chilies and ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes.

- Add clams, clam juice, white wine, thyme and salt; cover and cook until the clams open, about 10 minutes. As the clams open, transfer them to a large bowl. Discard any unopened clams.

- Add spinach to the saute pan, cover and cook until the spinach has wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Return the clams to the pan to warm through. Divide the malata among four serving bowls and serve with lime wedges.

Note: These slim, pointed chilies are also known as Thai chilies. Substitute jalapeno or serrano chilies to taste.

Makes 4 servings.

Preparation time: 30 minutes; cooking time: 25 minutes.

Nutritional information per serving: 572 calories (58 percent from fat), 39g fat, 6g saturated fat, 60mg cholesterol, 29g carbohydrates, 34g protein, 484mg sodium, 7g fiber

Spicy Plantain Chips

2 green plantains, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon curry powder

1 teaspoon confectioners' sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup spiced butter, see recipe, or 2 sticks (1 cup) butter

2 cups canola oil 

- Place the plantain slices in a large bowl; cover with cold water. Set aside to soak 10 minutes. Drain; rinse. Blot thoroughly with paper towels until dry.

- Meanwhile, combine the curry powder, sugar and salt in a small bowl; set aside.

- Melt the spiced butter in a Dutch oven over medium heat; add enough oil to come to a depth of 1 1/2 inches. Increase the heat to medium-high; heat until oil reaches 350 degrees.

- Working in batches, lower plantains into the oil with a slotted spoon; cook, stirring occasionally, until evenly browned, about 4 minutes per batch. Drain on paper towels. Dust with curry and sugar mixture.

Makes 5 servings.

Preparation time: 15 minutes; soaking time: 10 minutes; cooking time: 4 minutes.

Nutritional information per serving: 143 calories (35 percent from fat), 6g fat, 0.5g saturated fat, 0mg cholesterol, 24g carbohydrates, 1 gprotein, 469mg sodium, 2g fiber

Spiced butter

1 pound unsalted butter

1/2 medium red onion, coarsely chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 piece (3 inches long) ginger, peeled, finely chopped

1 teaspoon each: fenugreek seeds, ground cumin, cardamom seeds, dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

8 fresh basil leaves or 1/2 teaspoon of dried basil

Melt the butter in medium saucepan over low heat, stirring frequently. As foam rises to the top, skim and discard it. Continue cooking, without letting the butter brown, until no more foam appears.

Add the onion, garlic, ginger, fenugreek, cumin, cardamom, oregano, turmeric and basil; continue cooking for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Remove from the heat; let stand until the spices settle. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve before using. Store in the refrigerator in a tightly covered container for up to 3 weeks. Yield: 1 1/2 cups.

Shrimp Piri Piri

12 jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons Piri Piri, divided

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 lime, quartered

12 Bibb lettuce leaves

For piri piri sauce

8 red bird's-eye chilies, seeds and ribs removed, chopped (or dried piquin)

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

2 garlic cloves

1/2 cup olive oil

- Toss shrimp with 1/2 cup of Piri Piri in large bowl. Refrigerate for 20 minutes.

- Heat olive oil in large saute pan over medium heat.

- Add the shrimp and cook for two minutes on each side or until opaque throughout.

- Transfer to plate and sprinkle with the salt. Squeeze the lime quarters over the shrimp.

- Spread 1/2 teaspoon of the remaining Piri Piri sauce on each lettuce leaf. Place a shrimp on each leaf and fold over bottom and sides to form a wrap.

- To make the piri piri, combine the chilies, lemon juice, cilantro, parsley, and garlic in a blender and puree until smooth.

- With the blender running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream and blend until well combined.

Makes 4 servings.

[Last modified January 2, 2007, 15:49:45]