Wine of the week

By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published January 10, 2007

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Bogle Chardonnay, 2004

Smart wine drinkers with a taste for spicy reds turn to Bogle in out-of-the-way Clarksburg, Calif., for great petite sirah at bargain prices. The good value and Rubenesque bottling extends down the line even to much-maligned chardonnay.

Bogle's chard from the Delta vineyards is just as zaftig inside, round and creamy in texture and an easy-drinking crowd pleaser on the palate. It's peachy vanilla on the nose, with more sweet, lush fruit on the tongue, hints of oak and spice, and a friendly finish. Look for the 2005 to be just as toasty.

The only thing not to like is its pure likability.

Availability: $10, sold widely.