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Pungent buds win great sampling caper

By KATHY SAUNDERS
Published February 14, 2007

Just as dozens of rose buds brighten today's desktops and coffee tables, the tiny buds of the Capparis spinosa bush probably will add flavor to many sweetheart meals this week.

Capers, as they are more commonly known, are the tiny, unopened green flower buds on a bush grown in many Mediterranean countries and in California.

The buds are picked while they are tiny, usually about the size of a peppercorn. Generally, they are sun-dried and pickled.

The pungent berries are used in a lot of food preparation. They often are added to sauces and can be served as a garnish.

Taster's Choice judges tried seven brands of the smallest variety of the buds, called nonpareil capers. Most were preserved in white vinegar and salt.

A brand called Fragata $1.05 for a 3.5-ounce jar at Publix was a big hit with panelists, who gave the berries a total of 83 out of 100 possible points. Three of the four judges said they would add the buds to their sauces or dinner plates.

"These are great and nicely salted, and they almost have a meaty texture," said one judge.

Panelists liked the pleasant light-greenish color of the capers, and all four of them said the Fragata brand most successfully managed the salt level.

"Piccata - that's what we want now," said one judge. Another said she plans to use the capers in her chicken marbella recipe.

Three of the four judges also would buy capers from Bella Capote ($1.89 for a 3.5-ounce jar at Publix). Panelists awarded the buds a total of 66 points.

"These have a delicious bite to them," said one. The Bella Capote capers were a bit larger than the winning buds. Panelists described their flavor as "an explosion in the mouth."

Capers from Alessi ($2.49 for a 3.5-ounce jar from Publix) garnered 62 points from judges. Two panelists said they liked the berries enough to include them in their culinary creations.

The Alessi capers were plumper than their counterparts. They also had a stronger green tint. Judges liked the balance between the vinegar and the salt. And they detected a bit of a sweetness to the tangy buds.

Also sampled were capers by Lindsay ($1.89 for a 3.75-ounce jar at Publix); the Silver Palate ($3.99 for a 2.25-ounce jar at Publix); Roland ($4.49 for a 16-ounce jar at GFS Marketplace); and Crosse & Blackwell ($4.99 for a 3.5-ounce jar from Sweetbay).

Panelists were Nan Jensen, registered dietitian with Pinellas County Cooperative Extension; Bob Devin Jones, artistic director of Studio@620 personal chef and mother of four, Julie Overton; and Gary Kawalec, chef/owner of the Tampa Bay Supper Club in Safety Harbor. All foods were tasted blind.

Judge's rankings

Capers

1. Fragata

2. Bella Capote

3. Alessi

[Last modified February 13, 2007, 10:53:19]