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Give these new vintages a swirl

By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published February 21, 2007

The Paso Robles gang of Rhone rangers, zin fans, Cal-Italians and a few merlot and cabernet sidekicks rode into town last week.

Some wineries on tour are not yet on local shelves, but hope for distribution soon. Keep your eyes open for Anglim, Hunt Cellars, Midnight Cellars and Opolo Vineyards. Here's what's in now:

White Rhone blend, Treana, 2004. Viognier and marsanne come together like peaches and cream, but crisp raciness makes it refreshing. $25.

Roseum, Vina Robles, 2006. Grenache and syrah made bright light and dry, crisp as a cold slice of watermelon. $13.

Cabernet sauvignon, Robert Hall, 2004. Yes, Paso makes cabernet, as rich as fine chocolate in a satin box, but at Wal-Mart prices. $20.

Moscato Allegro, Martin & Weyrich, 2005. This winery loves old Italian grapes, none more fun than this, peaches and pears with a texture both creamy and spritzy. $12.

Petite sirah, EOS, 2004. As rich, dark and heartwarming as granddad's jam cupboard. It'll stand up to barbecued ribs. $18.

Claret, Kenneth Volk, 2004. New label from the Central Coast pioneer who made Wild Horse a champ now shows Bordeaux finesse. His merlots aren't softies, but strong and lovely in this happy blend. $28.

Zinfandel, Eberle, Steinbeck-Wine Bush Vineyard, 2005. Winery's Rhones and cabs are fine drinking, but they do well by old Paso zin. This is full of peppery fruit. $20.

Esprit de Beaucastel, white, Tablas Creek, 2004. Some Rhone whites are thin or flabby, but this is as grand as white Burgundy. It's big enough for a holiday dinner, pear and fig with hints of licorice, but full and crisp. $35.

Cabernet sauvignon, L'Aven-ture Optimus, 2004. Consider this a super-Rhone: Cabernet meets syrah with a pinch of spice. Full of berries and dark fruits in a rich drink with a long finish. Save for a feast. $45.

[Last modified February 20, 2007, 10:42:41]