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Legend filled our glasses

By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published March 21, 2007

When Ernest Gallo died this month at 97, he left the glass of his life more than half full. The glasses, bottle and jugs of our national table and picnic cooler were running over.

As the business and sales half of the two brothers who started the giant wine company, Ernest drove himself as hard as he did his employees, suppliers and a stodgy industry.

Julio made wine throughout the California's central valley and beyond, and Ernest sold it. The Gallos' wine was purchased under dozens of brands, in bottles of all sizes and prices, and flavors that went with bubble gum, sausage pizzas and steak.

Ernest twisted arms, built brands such as Thunderbird, fought with the farmworkers' unions and advertised on, gasp, television. By the way, he and his brother were not the crusty farmers in Bartles & Jaymes spots, as the urban legend of the '80s had it. Gallo became the largest wine company in the United States, surpassed only recently by Constellation.

Yet in Modesto, Ernest's home number was listed in the phone book. But he was usually at the winery, sometimes 18 hours a day and on weekends, even at 90 years old.

After Prohibition ended, the Gallo brothers graduated from growing grapes to making wine, although they didn't know how. An old pamphlet from the library, $900 in cash and a $5,000 loan got them started.

They proceeded to put California wine, wine coolers and varietal grapes into the hands of average Americans. Over the decades they strove to raise their image from good value to high quality. In the past 15 years, the following generations, including granddaughter Gina Gallo, have won rave ratings and top prices for Sonoma cabernets and central coast pinot noirs.

Julio, who died in an automobile accident in 1993, and Ernest were known for getting Americans to drink affordable wines, yet also raising consumer sophistication. If they made wine fun and cheap, they also had the integrity to resist white zinfandel.

The Gallos blended old California field grapes into Hearty Burgundy, a lush red of polish and spice that was the first Rhone Ranger, albeit undercover. Their investments and grape buying in Sonoma helped extend the wine map past Napa.

They established long-term contracts for growers and took their wines around the world. And now Gallo brings wine back from France, Italy and Australia.

Q: Which of these is a Gallo wine?

A: All of them.

Ernest, how we did drink thee. Let us count the ways, or try to. Here is a list of some of the many brands that were created, sold or imported by the Gallos in dozens of wineries overseas, and across California from Sonoma to Santa Barbara as well as their home plant in Modesto.

The Gallo lineup

Domestic - Gallo Family Vineyards Estate, Single Vineyard, Sonoma Reserve, Twin Valley - Thunderbird - Bartles & Jaymes - Ripple - Boone's Farm - Wild Vines - Carlo Rossi - Anapamu - Bridlewood - Indigo Hills - Louis M. Martini - Frei Brothers - MacMurray Ranch - Marcelina - Mirassou - Napa Valley Wines - Rancho Zabaco - Redwood Creek - Gossamer Bay - Turning Leaf - Dancing Bull - Carlo Rossi - Peter Vella - Night Train - Livingston Cellars - Copperidge - Liberty Creek - Burlwood - William Wycliff - Andre - Tott's - Ballatore Spumante - Imports - Bella Sera (Italy) - Black Swan (Australia) - DaVinci (Italy) - Ecco Domani (Italy) - McWilliams (Australia) - Red Bicyclette (France) - Sebeka (South Africa) - Whitehaven (New Zealand) - Liquors - E&J Brandy - Cask & Cream liqueur - E&J Cognac

[Last modified March 20, 2007, 11:10:56]