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Food

Variations from the vine

New labels, bright whites and some big reds pour freely at two bay area wine festivals.

By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published May 2, 2007

ADVERTISEMENT [Times photo: Scott Keeler] A 2004 Spring Valley Vineyard Meritage Blend from Walla Walla, Wash., is decanted before being served at Bern's 10th Winefest, an elaborate affair with top-shelf wines and luscious food from Bern's chefs.

At Tampa Bay's annual double shot of wine festivals, official star billing went to wines from Australia, Washington state and a few organic vineyards in California, and they did indeed shine.

But they were, of necessity, only a small part of the future tasted among hundreds of wines poured during the 17th annual Florida Winefest & Auction at the Ritz-Carlton in Sarasota and Bern's 10th Winefest in Tampa.

There were bright and spicy Rhone wines and other exciting blends, growing prominence for cabernet franc, beginnings of a white wine revival, more enjoyable amarones from Italy and a steady increase in wines from Portugal, Sicily, Austria, Germany and France's Loire Valley. Those who chase French vintages found that 2003 and 2005 lived up to the hype and that 2004 is a bargain alternative.

And the newest taste to many drinkers was the blueberry wines from Keel & Curley, just up the road in Plant City.

The delightfully oddest wine was from the mind of sweetly mad scientist Andrew Quady. Deviation tastes like a dessert wine from a Chinese herbal apothecary - an orange muscat with the scent of wild geranium.

All wines were scattered over five days of grand full course dinners, studious sit-down seminars and stand and sip free-for-alls that marked the convergence of the two major festivals and the growth of the Tampa Bay wine market.

The Sarasota festival is more charitable and relaxed and includes an affordable al fresco tasting on St. Armands Circle, but Bern's boisterous Sunday $100 tasting is a bigger one-day indulgence.

The wines poured there were more expensive and include more foreign names, plus they are beautifully organized and priced wines are sold on the spot. The food is a tour de force by the chefs at Bern's, from innovative charcuterie to ornate pastry and rare cheeses. This year's grand tasting paired food and wines by region, stretching from pork belly and apples with house-made brats to miniature Spanish lamb chops.

The lucky few have the wallet and stamina for a full round of both festivals. Here are some standouts to seek out on local shelves and restaurant wine lists:

Best buy, red: Domaine Chandon makes pinot meuniere without sparkle, just great flavors of cherry and licorice ($25). Heitz Vineyards' bargain entry is a zinfandel easy on the tongue and wallet ($18). Under the simple name Sonoma Vineyards, Rodney Strong turns out a great 2003 merlot ($14). Guiot Rose will make you want to have grilled shrimp every night. Pinot noir's close kin in Austria is blaufrankisch, from Neckenmarkt, which has all the blueberries and ease of fine merlot for $10.

Best buy, white: Isenhower Snapdragon, a rousanne blend aiming at the best of the Rhone (under $20). Austrian GruV's are under $20 and great summer wines. Stadt Krems is a special treat ($16).

Big reds: So what if the Frank Family of Napa's zinfandels and cabernets may hit record alcohol levels over 15 percent, they are still righteously smooth. ($30 to $90)

Great whites: A French hand in the winery at Matanzas Creek turns sauvignon blanc into a bouquet as flowery as a riesling and makes a polished chardonnay that will bring naysayers back.

From France's Rhone, Matrot makes meursault easy and spicy, and rousanne does the same in Crozes Hermitage from Domaine Belle ($20 to $30).

Rhone alone: Curtis Winery, a specialist in Rhone grapes spun off by Firestone, creates a spicy fruitcake red blend based on grenache, and a calypso white ($12 to $20).

Spanish accent: Murrieta's Well, a smart blender from Livermore, Calif., now makes a tempranillo mix called Zarzuela that amounts to American Rioja, full-bodied yet easy ($25). From the new region of Bierzo, Bem bi Bre is a rich taste of modern Spain ($40).

Super whatever: The Toscano cabernet blend is delicious whether made as Guado al Tasso by Antinori or Col Solare by Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington ($40 to $80).

Be franc: Merlot's gutsy neighbor from Bordeux shows off in fine reds and roses from Anjou, in Dos Amores from Santa Barbara, and in stunning ice wine made at Keel & Curley in Florida from British Columbia grapes.

Zin for all: Rosenblum vineyards sources its favorite grape all over California but found some of the best zinfandel close to home in its San Francisco Bay Kathy's Cuvee ($18).

Pinot, pinot: Forget grigio, pinot gris is richer stuff from Chateau Lafond in the Loire, Trimbach in Alsace or from King Estates. For noir, Truchard from California's is an easy bite of cherries.

Chris Sherman can be reached at (727) 893-8585 or csherman@sptimes.com.

[Last modified May 3, 2007, 13:41:53]