Name game undermines organic labels

By A TIMES EDITORIAL
Published June 15, 2007

Someone who buys Organic Wild Hop Lager should expect the beer to be made from organic ingredients. After all, it carries the "USDA Organic" seal of authenticity and Anheuser-Busch says this about its product: "Flavor you can feel good about." Though it might not feel so good to learn that the hops - a major ingredient in the beer - are not organic and, worse, that the Department of Agriculture approves of the subterfuge.

A growing number of food producers are playing the same game. The USDA is considering a new list of 38 nonorganic ingredients it would allow in food labeled organic, most of which are already in use.

Organic vegetables are supposed to be grown without pesticides or chemical fertilizers, and organic meat is supposed to be from animals raised on organic feed without antibiotics or growth hormones. Forget that, says the USDA, if an organically grown ingredient is unavailable to the food processor. Hence the list of 38 ingredients, which includes the intestines of traditionally raised animals (despite the mad cow scare) for use in "organic" sausage.

Those trying to protect the organic label's integrity smell a rat, and not one fed organic grain. "This proposal is blatant catering to powerful industry players who want the benefits of labeling their products 'USDA Organic' without doing the work to source organic materials, " said Ronnie Cummins, national director of the Organic Consumers Association.

In addition to hops and sausage casings, the list includes food colorings, flavorings such as chili peppers and sweeteners. Most are available in organic form, but organic farming and ranching costs more, so some food producers are looking to cut their expenses with a wink from the USDA. Of course, the finished product fetches a premium price.

The USDA was supposed to finalize the list by now but apparently is torn between standing up to the influential food giants and defending the credibility of the organic label. Consumers and even organic purists would probably accept a few nonorganic ingredients that pose no risk, but not without transparency to the approval process, which is wrapped in secrecy.

The long-range solution is for Congress to encourage more organic production. "The reason we're having this debate today over the 38 ingredients is we don't have a program to help farmers and ranchers to make the transition to organic food, " Cummins said.

Congress could start that process by creating substantial incentives for organic farming. Use some of the money wasted on subsidies that reward overproduction of certain crops. And USDA officials can act immediately, by cutting that list of 38 ingredients and standing up for the organic label.

[Last modified June 14, 2007, 21:46:40]