Outdoors

Over the river and through the woods

... But a hike along the Hillsborough won't take you to grandmother's house — unless she's a river otter.

By TERRY TOMALIN, Times Outdoors Editor
Published August 3, 2007

It's hot and humid, hardly a day for a hike. But don't be fooled by appearances. There's another world waiting to be discovered out there under the trees. Step off the blacktop and on to the trail. You'll find the temperature cooler, the air a little fresher, in the shade.

No need to travel far

Hillsborough River State Park, one of nine original Florida state parks, lies about a half-hour north of downtown Tampa. The park is so close and convenient you can pack a pair of comfortable shoes in your trunk and head out for a quick hike after work.

The park has four trails ranging in length from 1.1 miles to 3.4 miles that can easily be linked together for an all-day adventure. The River Rapids Nature Trail leads an intrepid hiker down to the Hillsborough's Class II rapids, a rare sight in Florida.

Get there early in the morning and you stand a good chance of seeing a pair of river otters that love to play among the rocks.

Steeped in history

In 1835, the Fort King Military Road, which linked Tampa with present-day Ocala, ran straight through the heart of the area now occupied by the state park.

U.S. troops built Fort Alabama on this spot in March 1836 to defend a strategic bridge that spanned the river. Duty here was hard. Mosquitoes made life difficult, so the soldiers only lasted a few months.

But before they left, they booby-trapped the fort, a surprise for their Seminole enemies. The subsequent explosion destroyed the fort, but the following winter, the soldiers returned and built Fort Foster.

This time, the troops lasted two years. The fort was declared "indefensible" and the soldiers left, leaving the banks of the Hillsborough to the gators and wildcats.

More than a century later, Fort Foster was rebuilt, down to the finest detail, and on weekends, visitors can tour the grounds and step back to a time when the Seminoles ruled these swamps.

A new deal

In 1933, at the height of the Great Depression, the Civilian Conservation Corps was the first of President Franklin Roosevelt's new agencies to set up in Florida.

For the next nine years, the CCC and the Works Progress Administration helped many Floridians feed and clothe their families.

Sixty men labored at what would become Hillsborough River State Park for five years, clearing trails and building everything from picnic pavilions to caretakers' cabins.

Their most impressive legacy is the wooden, suspension bridge that leads hikers across the river. The footbridge, built more than 70 years ago, bears testimony to what a few hungry men with tools can do.

The trails

To start your hike, park in Lot No. 2 and follow the signs to the River Rapids Nature Trail. Before you head into the forest, take a moment to read the "Prayer of the Woods" sign posted at the trail head. It will put you in the right frame of mind.

Follow the trail to the water, then along the river. Keep an eye on the trees overhead for everything from pileated woodpeckers to red-shouldered hawks. Deep under the canopy, you may spot barred owls and wild turkey as well.

The suspension bridge - don't worry, it is sturdier than it looks - will take you to the Baynard Trail, named after Oscar E. Baynard, the park's first superintendent who served from 1938-45.

Halfway through the Baynard Trail, you'll see the blue blazes of a link trail, which will lead you to a 3.4-mile segment of the orange-blazed Florida Trail. About a mile into this segment, you will find a primitive campsite, perfect for beginning backpackers. The remaining 2 miles of trail meanders about 20 feet above the river, providing a perfect opportunity for gator spotting.

The Wetlands Restoration Nature Trail, a 1.6-mile segment that links Dead River County Park with the parking lot west of the ranger station, is really a dirt road available to bikers and hikers.

No swimming

The upper reaches of the Hillsborough River may look inviting, but swimming is prohibited. Agricultural lands upstream have affected the river's water quality. The river is also known for its large gators, some of which have been removed over the years due to aggressive behavior.

But hikers can cool off in the park's large swimming pool, built to accommodate up to 216 bathers. The pool is open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., seven days a week. Check out the adjacent Spirit of the Woods poolside cafe, open for breakfast and lunch daily from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekdays and from 9 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. on weekends.

The park also rents canoes and bikes and has a top-notch 111-site campground. No pets are allowed in the canoes; need not tempt the gators. The park has a canoe launch, but no boat ramp.

Canoe escape

Another option is to rent a canoe at Canoe Escape on Fowler Avenue. Pick from six self-guided trips suitable for every skill level, from novice to expert. Prices (which include pickup and dropoff) range from $22.50 for a tandem canoe to $52 for a solo kayak. Call (813) 986-2067, or visit www.canoeescape.com .

[Last modified August 3, 2007, 03:55:49]