Pass the papalo to cilantro fans
If you love cilantro in salads and ethnic dishes, but hate trying to grow it, here's the solution.
By John A. Starnes Jr., Special to the Times
Published August 25, 2007
Seed source
Papalo seeds are available at seedsofchange.com.
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Many kitchen adventures into the steamy realms of Mexican and Asian cuisine get lost without the telltale guidepost of cilantro Coriandrum sativum, a relative of parsley, dill and fennel that is the source of coriander seeds. But, since dried cilantro is tasteless and bundles of "fresh" cilantro are usually wilted and pricey, and the short-lived plant thrives in Florida gardens only in winter, what's a cilantro-loving chef to do?
Meet papalo. This tall, tasty member of the aster family grows like a weed year-round in Florida, but thrives especially well in our hot, humid summers. Known botanically as Porophyllum ruderale, it goes by the nicknames "killi" and "Bolivian coriander." It is native to much of South America and the lower southwestern United States.
Unlike true cilantro, which is petite and therefore needs to be planted in large numbers, just one papalo plant can keep a household supplied with flavorful leaves month after month. It also adapts well to hot and cold temperatures and to wet and damp soil.
Try the beautiful blue gray-green leaves in place of cilantro on burritos, Thai dishes, or in salads. The flavor is similar but milder, nuttier and sweeter. I love nibbling it raw as I work in my gardens. Anecdotal evidence suggests it helps lower blood pressure. Medical studies of extracts of papalo are now under way to understand its centuries-old traditions as both a culinary and medicinal herb for the liver and for blood pressure problems.
The graceful, airy plant, averaging 3 feet tall and 2 feet wide, looks right at home in a butterfly garden or floral landscape bed. No herb is easier to grow, even in poor, unimproved soil (though it does love my rich soil, improved over the years by organics and dolomite). All it needs is full sun, and the small root system makes it a fine choice for growing in a pot.
The odd blossoms at first glance seem to be purplish-brown seed heads. They quickly mature into dandelion puffballs, dispersing the seeds in the garden, where they sprout quickly. The sprouts transplant very easily when about 6 inches tall, and I love sharing them with friends who enjoy trying new recipes and varied ethnic cuisine.
As happy as papalo is during the entire Florida summer, it does almost as well in winter, when we grow true cilantro. I had a couple of light frosts in South Tampa last winter, and none of my papalo plants even noticed. The tender, aromatic leaves strip easily off the stems all year long and never get tough; when the plant sets seed long enough, it dies. But numerous seedlings are already thriving to replace it. I rarely see a plant as perfect, but my papalo plants are beautiful and never get bugs or disease.
Love cilantro? Grow papalo for a change.
John A. Starnes Jr., born in Key West, is an avid organic gardener and rosarian who studies, collects, cultivates and hybridizes roses for Florida. He can be reached at johnastarnes@msn.com.