Fire up flavor on the grill

By Janet K. Keeler, Times food and travel editor
Published August 29, 2007

Marinades, seasoning mixes and sauces are sure-fire ways to bring extra sizzle to your grilled foods. But when to use what? Here's a handy guide, with a little help from the cookbooks of grilling master Steven Raichlen, on when to soak, rub and sop.

Marinade

What is it?
A liquid mixture of ingredients used to moisten, tenderize and flavor meat, poultry, fish and vegetables.

There are three components to a marinade: acid, oil and flavorings such as fresh or dried herbs, seeds, chilies and other condiments.

The acid breaks down tough muscle fiber and can include fruit juice, vinegar (red wine, cider or balsamic) or yogurt (think Indian tandoori).

The oil helps keep food moist while sealing in and adding flavor. Use a variety of oil depending on what you are marinating, including olive, hazelnut, sesame, walnut and pistachio.

Aromatic flavorings bring the punch to the party. They also bring ethnic diversity. For instance, ginger, scallions and garlic are distinctly Chinese. For a Mexican taste, go for smoked chilies, and an Italian marinade always includes basil, garlic and oregano.

How to use it?
Cover raw meat, poultry or fish in a nonreactive container (do not use copper or metal) and refrigerate. Or use an appropriate-size sealable bag.

Because of possible contamination from the raw food, discard marinade after use. If you want to serve it as a sauce, it must be boiled for at least five minutes.

When to use it?
The better question may be how long to use it. Thick cuts of beef and pork can sit in marinade for a long time, even overnight. Chicken can be marinated for that long, too. Longer than that and it can become mushy.

Fish should not be marinated more than 30 minutes. The acid will begin to "cook" the fish, such as in ceviche. Also, the flesh becomes mealy.

Drain off marinade well before grilling, or your food may end up stewing.

What is it?
Barbecue sauce is a spicy, sweet-tart sauce used to flavor grilled and barbecued meat toward the end of cooking, and even poured on after. There are dozens of ingredients that can be used in barbecue sauces.

In the United States, the topic of the perfect sauce is debated endlessly and regional differences are fiercely defended.

How to use it?
Do not use barbecue sauce as a basting liquid to keep meat moist. The sugar in the sauce will caramelize, then burn, especially on meats that are being grilled quickly at high heat. For longer barbecuing, keep the heat low so the sauce won't burn.

Brush on sauce in the last few minutes of cooking to bring out its flavors and create a glaze.

When to use it?

In general, barbecue sauce does nothing for grilled seafood except overpower it. There are many recipes for grilled fish in sweet-tangy sauces, but they are normally cooked in foil, which prevents the heat from scorching the sauce and then the fish.

Beef, chicken and pork are all enhanced by barbecue sauces. Hundreds of commercial varieties provide an endless source for experimentation. Put extra sauce on the table for those who want a double dose.

Rub

What is it?
A rub is a mixture of spices, herbs, seasonings and sometimes sugar that is rubbed on the outside of meat and poultry.

Rubs give the meat a base flavor that goes deeper than seasoning sprinkled on directly before grilling. There are two kinds of rubs:

Dry rubs are sprinkled over the food and gently rubbed in.

Web rubs are dry rubs with a little liquid, such as water, yogurt or oil, mixed in to make a paste. The paste is smeared all over the the meat. Because of the moisture, a wet rub acts similar to a marinade.

How to use it?
Apply the rub to the meat or poultry several hours before cooking. This will form a crust that helps lock in flavor and moisture.

Rubs can be left on for up to 24 hours. Any longer than that, and the salt in the rub can dehydrate the meat by pulling moisture out.

When to use it?
Think about what you are grilling. A sturdy meat, such as ribs, steak or lamb, will hold up to assertive seasonings such as cayenne, mustard powder and garlic. Don't overwhelm tender meats, such as pork tenderloin. Use minced fresh herbs for mild meats.

Most fish don't react well to rubs, unless it's a strongly flavored one such as salmon.

[Last modified August 27, 2007, 17:40:56]