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'Neiman Marcus' showcases lovely food in fine fashion

By Janet Keeler, Times Food and Travel Editor
Published October 3, 2007

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There are some cookbooks that make you want to spend an entire weekend in the kitchen, elbow deep in dough or some such endeavor. The topic and the title are the first come-ons.

From the title alone, Neiman Marcus Taste: Timeless American Recipes doesn't sound like one of those. After all, the venerable department store is sometimes tagged "Needless Markups" because of its upscale inventory with matching prices. What kind of recipes would they tout? Designer pastries with gold dust?

But hold it in your hands, this gloriously illustrated book, and you'll be smitten. The still life of pears, all golden and Vermeer, on the cover is a feast. Slick pages fall open and you'll swear that the roasted root vegetables, caramelized sea scallops and even a puddle of lemon-yellow olive oil will slip onto the floor. The photographs are that vivid and beautifully styled.

But wait a minute. All this high food fashion for Creamed Chicken A La King and Granny Smith Apple Pie? Does the Neiman Marcus crowd really go for Grandmom's Turkey Soup?

Yes, and that's the attraction of Neiman Marcus Taste (Random House, Oct. 9; $45). Chef and vice president Kevin Garvin, with an assist from writer John Harrisson, has put together a love letter in the form of recipes to the Zodiac, the company's first restaurant in the flagship Dallas store. Today, there are many Neiman Marcus stores with restaurants (though not the outlet at International Plaza in Tampa). But as a testament to the ladies who lunch, the original Zodiac in Dallas only serves chicken nestled in a tomato, and other staples of the scene, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday. There is no dinner service and the restaurant is closed Sunday.

The book includes a lovely tribute to Helen Corbitt, a New York food pro who was wooed to Texas by one of the Marcus clan in the 1960s to run Zodiac. She had already passed on an offer by President Lyndon Johnson to steer the White House kitchen. Under her watch, Zodiac became the place to have lunch and in the following years she helped launch Mariposa, another of Neiman's signature restaurants. (For locations of store restaurants, go to www.neimanmarcus.com.)

The bread-and-butter of Zodiac and also Neiman Marcus Taste is classic food prepared well. That's how Garvin gets away with including such a traditionally low-brow dish as Chicken a la King in such a high-brow book. The creamy chicken melange is served in a Parmesan popover. And one important note: a can of condensed soup is not involved and that's because you'll have to make one of the French mother sauces, a creamy veloute. So, a recipe that seems simple, actually takes some time and know-how.

There are some, though, that are actually easy.

BBQ Sea Scallops are served with New England Cabbage Salad, but they aren't really barbecued at all. Draped with Neiman's special sauce and then served on skewers. They've got the look of outdoor cooking, but not the technique. Clever chefs, indeed.

Neiman Marcus Taste is full of little gems. It's a cookbook made for browsing, just like the racks of Vera Wang and Valentino. Only the scallops cost a few less clams.

Janet K. Keeler can be reached at (727) 893-8586 or e-mail her at jkeeler@sptimes.com.

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BBQ Sea Scallops

18 to 24 sea scallops (about 2 pounds), washed and patted dry

1 cup barbecue sauce (recipe follows)

Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

2 tablespoons olive oil

- Place the scallops in a large baking dish or casserole and add the sauce. Season with salt and pepper and cover the dish with plastic wrap. Transfer to the refrigerator and let marinate for 2 hours, turning the scallops over once.

- To cook, pour the oil into a large nonstick skillet and set over medium-low heat. Add the marinated scallops a few at a time so as not to overcrowd the pan. Saute on the first side for about 2 minutes, or until the sides are browned. Turn the scallops over and saute for about 30 seconds longer. Remove the scallops and thread a skewer through each. Place 3 or 4 skewered scallops on each plate and serve with cabbage salad.

Serves 6.

Source: Neiman Marcus Taste by Kevin Garvin (Random House, 2007)

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Neiman Marcus Barbecue Sauce

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 onion, diced

1 jalapeno, cut in half

4 cups ketchup

1/2 cup brown sugar

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar

1/4 cup honey

1/4 cup dark molasses

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup barbecue spice mix, your choice

1 tablespoon dry mustard, such as Colman's

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon liquid smoke (optional)

- Pour the oil into large saucepan and set over medium heat. Add the garlic, onion and jalapeno and saute for 3 minutes, or until softened. Add 2 cups water and the ketchup, brown sugar, vinegar, honey, molasses, soy sauce, barbecue spice, mustard, salt and liquid smoke. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1 hour, until thick and flavorful. Strain into a clean container, discarding the solids. Check the seasonings and adjust as necessary.

Makes 4 cups.

Source: Neiman Marcus Taste by Kevin Garvin (Random House, 2007)

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New England Cabbage Salad

1 cup white wine vinegar

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon celery seeds

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

1 large head green cabbage

1 large green bell pepper, seeded and finely diced

1 onion, finely diced

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

- Place the vinegar, sugar, celery seeds, turmeric and mustard seeds in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Stir to make sure the sugar is dissolved and then turn off the heat. Using the largest holes of a grater, grate the cabbage into a stainless steel bowl (there should be 6 to 7 heaping cups). Add the bell pepper and onion and mix well.

- Pour the hot vinegar mixture over the vegetables and combine thoroughly. Cover the bowl and chill in the refrigerator for 2 hours or, preferably, overnight to allow the flavors to marry. Just before serving, add the olive oil and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper.

Serves 6.

Source: Neiman Marcus Taste by Kevin Garvin (Random House, 2007)

 

[Last modified October 2, 2007, 10:12:01]