Thanksgiving is student cooks' final test
Participants at Wishbone U. learn the skills they need to de-stress and impress on the holiday.
By Janet Keeler, Times Food and Travel Editor
Published November 18, 2007
ON THE WEB
Demonstrations
Apron's Cooking School head chef Bil Mitchell shows how to carve a turkey and make gravy at dining.tampabay.com.
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TAMPA - You've got to feel for Christal Hice.
The in-laws are driving from Michigan to Land O'Lakes for Thanksgiving. All that way for Christal's first turkey. First pie. First time setting the table with the wedding china.
"The closest thing I have made that can even comes close to an interesting side dish is broccoli, cheese and rice casserole using frozen broccoli, Velveeta cheese, Campbell's soup and crushed saltines," she told us.
Please, oh please, teach me to make something that will give June Cleaver a run for her money, Christal wrote. The June Cleaver of whom she speaks is her mother-in-law, complete with set of pearls.
After an intense session at Wishbone U., the St. Petersburg Times' Thanksgiving cooking boot camp, Christal has a few show-off dishes that even straitlaced Ward might like. She was among the readers selected to attend the third annual Wishbone U. at Publix Super Markets' Apron's Cooking School in Tampa. Ranging in age from 17 to 60, the class of 2007 graduated with honors in side dishes.
The three-hour session even helped one teenage student make up his mind about a career.
Apron's head chef Bil Mitchell and his able sous chef Rich Norris showed the class there can be something new on the Thanksgiving table. And with a little know-how, even novice cooks can be the ones to change the status quo.
Mitchell turned traditional stuffing into a savory bread pudding baked in a loaf pan and sliced. Standard green bean casserole was transformed by brussels sprouts. And before you can say "yuck" think about pecans and bacon nestled in the creamy sauce. It didn't take much imagination to envision grit cakes with homemade pepper jelly on the groaning buffet table. Gingerbread gravy how novel! and mashed rutabaga and Yukon gold potatoes rounded out the lesson.
Candace Hundley of Tampa wrinkled her nose at the brussels sprouts and the gingerbread gravy. Can't really blame her since it was a Kahlua gingerbread with lime curd that prompted two so-called pals to nominate her for cooking class.
Candace shared the recipe and "I served it at a dinner party and it was terrible to say the least! I had to throw the leftovers away," wrote Bonnie Smith of Cordova, Tenn., in her nomination.
And there were more tales of cooking woes:
- "I am the worst. Ask anyone who knows me," wrote Alice Fisher of Largo.
- Stan Cornett of Palm Harbor was turned in by his "overspiced" wife, Joni, for not knowing when to ease up on the heat. He puts hot spices in nearly everything. As for Thanksgiving dishes, "He can make an excellent pie, but it is everything else I'm worried about."
- Kate Burns of St. Petersburg can't seem to cook anything right. "Burned biscuits, hard-as-rock rolls, runny sweet potatoes are normal fare at my holiday dinners." Kate claims to come from a long line of lousy cooks, so in her family, she actually has a good reputation.
- Don Tomko of Lutz wanted to learn some "bachelor survivor" techniques to impress his fiance. He didn't know it would take so much fat-filled butter and cream. The look on his face as Chef Bil added more of each to several dishes was priceless.
Teenagers Nyah Sandy of St. Petersburg and Martin Miltner of Largo were both nominated by family members.
Grandmother Rosa Sandy said Nyah, a junior at Gibbs High School, was interested in pursuing a culinary education. Same for Martin, whose mother, Sheila, wrote that "he is forever requesting something special from the store so he can experiment."
Before the class started, Martin said culinary arts was vying with jewelry design as a career. Afterward, the senior at Largo High said he had made up his mind.
Maybe it was whisking egg whites to a stiff froth with muscle alone that swayed him. Jewelry design it is.
But hopefully not before a fantastic Thanksgiving dinner, Wishbone U. style.
Janet K. Keeler can be reached at (727) 893-8586 or e-mail jkeeler@sptimes.com.
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Wishbone U. Fast Facts
CLASS OF 2007
Instructors
- Bil Mitchell, resident head chef, Apron's Cooking School
- Rich Norris, sous chef, Apron's Cooking School
Students
- Kerry Auld, 51, Largo
- Kate Burns, 27, St. Petersburg
- Stan Cornett, 52, Palm Harbor
- Alice Fisher, 44, Largo
- Christal Hice, 28, Land O'Lakes
- Candace Hundley, 60, Tampa
- Susan McNulty, 39, Trinity
- Martin Miltner, 17, Clearwater
- Jaclyn Peterson, 30, Spring Hill
- Nyah Sandy, 17, St. Petersburg
- Don Tomko, 46, Lutz
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SIDE DISH
Mashed Rutabaga and Yukon Gold Potatoes
2 pounds rutabaga, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
3 to 4 cups heavy cream
1 stick butter
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg, or to taste
Kosher salt and white pepper for seasoning
- Cook rutabaga and potatoes in salted water in separate saucepans. When both are tender, remove from heat. Rutabaga will take about 30 minutes, and potatoes will take about 20 to 25 minutes.
- Place cream and butter in a small sauce pan, bring to a boil and remove from heat. Grate in the nutmeg.
- Drain the potatoes and rutabagas, and let any excess water steam off. While the potatoes and rutabagas are still hot, but dry, puree with a food mill, potato masher or firm whisk. Whisk in cream and butter mixture, and then taste for salt and pepper.
Serves 4 to 6.
Source: Apron's Cooking School, Publix Super Markets
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SIDE DISH
Turkey Day Savory Bread Pudding
3 tablespoons butter
1 leek (white part only), rinsed and sliced thin
1/2 onion, minced
1 carrot, finely diced
1 stalk celery, finely diced
4 cloves roasted garlic
1 tablespoon fresh sage, minced
1 teaspoon fresh oregano, minced
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, picked from stems and minced
1/2 teaspoon fresh rosemary, picked from stems and minced
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup milk
Salt and fresh-cracked black pepper
4 eggs, separated
1/2 loaf challah (or any bread you prefer), about 3 to 4 cups
1 corn bread muffin
- In a medium sauce pan over medium heat, melt butter and add the leek, onion, carrot and celery. Saute until the vegetables are softened and then add the roasted garlic, crushing it in the bottom of the pot. Add the fresh minced herbs and mix well.
- Add the cream and milk, and bring up to a boil. Lower to a simmer and allow all the flavors to steep for a few minutes. Whisk in the salt and pepper, and take off the heat. Preheat your oven to 375 degrees.
- Whisk the egg yolks in a bowl and slowly temper the hot cream mixture into the yolks by adding a few tablespoons at a time to start to develop a custard. After the egg yolks have warmed, add the rest of the cream mixture.
- Whip by hand or with a mixer the egg whites in a separate bowl to soft peaks and set aside.
- Meanwhile, cut up the bread into cubes, put into a large bowl, and then add the cream and yolk mixture. Mix to coat the bread and let soak for about 5 minutes. Fold in the whipped egg whites.
- Grease a 9- by 5-inch loaf pan and pour the bread mixture into the pan. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes. The pudding will puff up slightly. When browned, remove the pudding from the oven, let cool slightly and serve.
Serves 8.
Source: Apron's Cooking School, Publix Super Market
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ACCOMPANIMENT
Gingerbread Gravy
Stock:
5 cups low-salt chicken broth
2 medium carrots, chopped
2 large celery stalks, chopped
1 onion, halved
2 small bay leaves
Neck, heart and gizzard reserved from 18- to 20-pound turkey
Gravy:
1 cup onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped
20 gingersnap cookies, coarsely crumbled (about 1 3/4 cups)
3 to 4 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 cup heavy cream (optional)
- For the stock: Combine broth, carrots, celery, onion and bay leaves in large saucepan. Add reserved neck, heart and gizzard. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until stock is reduced to 3 1/4 cups, about 1 hour. Strain turkey stock into medium bowl. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover stock and refrigerate.)
- For the gravy: Strain the pan juices from your turkey into a bowl. Spoon off fat, reserve 2 tablespoons. Heat reserved 2 tablespoons of turkey fat in large, heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion and thyme. Saute until onion browns, about 10 minutes. Add turkey stock, gingersnap cookies, 3 tablespoons cider vinegar and Worcestershire sauce. Add 2 cups degreased pan juices and bring to a boil, whisking to dissolve gingersnaps. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until gravy thickens, about 4 minutes. Season gravy to taste with salt and pepper, adding remaining tablespoon vinegar and cream, if desired.
Makes 1 1/2 quarts.
Source: Apron's Cooking School, Publix Super Markets
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SIDE DISH
Brussels Sprouts Casserole With Pecans and Bacon
1/2 cup pecans, chopped
2 pounds brussels sprouts
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons canola oil
1/2 pound thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/4-inch slices
1 Spanish onion, julienned
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 cups whole milk
- Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Toast the pecans slightly on a baking sheet.
- Trim brussels sprouts with a paring knife and cut in half. Season the sprouts with salt and pepper; add the oil to a large preheated skillet, and sear, cut side down, until the sprouts begin to caramelize. Lower the heat to medium, flip the brussels sprouts and cook until they soften, about 1 to 2 minutes.
- In the same skillet, over medium-high heat, add the bacon and cook until some of the fat has rendered and the bacon is halfway crisp. Drain off most of the bacon fat, reserving 3 tablespoons. Set the bacon aside and then add the onion. When the onions start to soften, add the flour, stirring, to develop a blond roux (paste) for a bechamel sauce.
- When you can no longer smell raw flour, slowly whisk in the milk; simmer the sauce until it has thickened, and then taste for salt.
- Grease a 13- by 9-inch casserole dish and add the sprouts, bacon and pecans. Pour the onion and bacon bechamel over the sprout mixture and bake in the oven until the sauce has thickened and is starting to turn slightly brown. Serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6.
Source: Apron's Cooking School, Publix Super Markets
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CONDIMENT
Serrano Pepper Jelly
1 large red bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped (divided use)
1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped (divided use)
12 serrano peppers, stems removed
1 1/2 cups apple cider vinegar
1 pinch salt
3 1/2 cups granulated sugar
3 ounces liquid pectin
4 serrano peppers, seeded and finely chopped
- Combine half of the red and yellow peppers with the 12 serrano peppers in a food processor. Process until finely chopped. Transfer the peppers to a large saucepan and stir in the cider vinegar. Bring to a boil and let simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Strain the mixture through at least two layers of cheesecloth, and discard pulp (you should have about 1 cup of liquid).
- Return the liquid to the saucepan and stir in the salt and sugar until dissolved. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. When the mixture comes to a rolling boil (one that cannot be stirred down), boil for one minute, turn off heat and stir in the liquid pectin.
- Stir in remaining serrano and bell peppers and ladle liquid into sterile jars leaving 1/4-inch head-space. Seal jars in a hot-water bath. Refrigerate jelly after seal is broken. Or, if you are using within a 2-week period, refrigerate in air-tight container.
Makes 1 quart.
Source: Apron's Cooking School, Publix Super Markets
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SIDE DISH
Grit Cakes With Pepper Jelly
2 bunches scallions
2 1/2 cups quick grits
2 cups Havarti cheese, grated
1 teaspoon cumin, roasted and ground
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup cornmeal
1 tablespoon butter
2 ounces vegetable oil
Serrano Pepper Jelly (above)
- Finely chop the scallions (the bottom part only) and set aside. Lightly butter a 15- by 10-inch jelly roll pan. Bring 6 cups of water to a boil in a saucepan. Slowly sprinkle in the grits, stirring with a whisk all the while. Then reduce the heat to medium and stir for 5 to 7 minutes, until thick. Remove the pan of grits from the heat and stir in the cheese, spices (you can reduce the amount of cayenne, if you like), salt and pepper, and scallions.
- Spoon the mixture into the baking pan (it should be about 1/2-inch deep) and smooth the top. Cover with plastic wrap and chill until it's time to fry the cakes. Using a 3-inch round cookie cutter (or a drinking glass), mark out circles in the grits. (leftover scraps can be fried up or frozen.)
- Combine the flour and cornmeal in a pie pan. Heat 1 tablespoon of butter in a large skillet over medium heat and add oil until it is 1/2-inch deep. Coat both sides of each grit cake with the flour mixture, and then fry the cakes until golden, about 2 minutes on each side. Place the cooked grits cakes on paper towels to absorb excess oil. Serve hot with pepper jelly.
Yields 2 dozen 3-inch grits cakes.
Note: The cakes can be made a day ahead then reheated in a single layer on a baking sheet.
Serves 8.
Source: Apron's Cooking School, Publix Super Markets
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Tips from the chefs
Apron's Cooking School chefs Bil Mitchell and Rich Norris shared lots of tips with the students of Wishbone U. Here's a sampling that might help you too:
- Don't stuff the turkey. "Everyone is so worried that the stuffing is cooked to a safe temperature that they overcook the turkey," Mitchell said.
- Potatoes should be placed in cold water, then set on a hot burner so that they cook evenly.
- The magic formula for basic mashed potatoes: 5 pounds potatoes, 1 pint cream, 1 stick butter. The salt is to taste.
- After cooked potatoes are drained, return them to the hot pot to dry. Wait for potatoes to stop steaming before adding cream or butter.
- Every time you stir a pot, you cool the pan down, Norris said. Only stir when necessary. "If you like to do something while you're cooking, grab a glass of wine," he said.
- When cutting round vegetables, make one side flat to make the food more stable and prevent cutting yourself.
- When preparing a roux (flour and fat) to thicken gravy, cook it until it no longer smells like raw flour. A finished roux should smell liked freshly baked bread.
- Salt most food at the end of cooking, starting with a small amount. You can always add, but you can't reduce.
- Do not salt homemade turkey stock to be used for gravy, stuffing and basting. Stock should be bland, imparting a slight turkey flavor. If you substitute store-bought stock, make sure it is low-sodium.