News

100 things that make you go mmmmm

By Laura Reiley, Times Food Critic
Published January 3, 2008

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Harry Waugh Dessert Room at Bern's Steak House in Tampa has updated its menu, saying goodbye to 10 items and hello to 10 others.
	[John Pendygraft | Times]

ADVERTISEMENT [Dirk Shadd | Times] Emma Wineberger gives the annual hot dog-eating contest a try at Dairy Inn, which has served dogs for six decades in St. Petersburg. [Scott Keeler | Times] St. Petersburg's Skyway Jack's has made its name serving up hearty breakfasts. [Special to the Times] Shephard's Beach Resort in Clearwater Beach has earned a reputation as a waterfront party headquarters. [Willie J. Allen, Jr. | Times] Kitschy memorabilia creates a special ambience at Beak's Old Florida in St. Petersburg. The food's not bad either.

Traditionally, we've looked back at this time of year to assess local restaurant trends and enumerate our favorite places to eat. - But, since I've been the Times food critic for less than a year, it seems presumptuous of me to declare the area's best restaurants just yet. - Next year, count me in. - For now, I offer an alphabet soup of 100 things I've found to like about the Tampa Bay area restaurant scene, with a special emphasis on what's new, what's changed and what's endured beautifully.

- - - 

A (appetizers)

Salt and pepper tofu, Yummy House, 2202 W Waters Ave., Tampa, 813 915-2828. This newcomer has made waves with its authentic Hong Kong-style (but affordable) Chinese. Vegetarians and carnivores can wholeheartedly agree upon the salt and pepper tofu, which comes soft centered and crunchy on the outside, spicy-salty and sitting on a bed of crisply roasted garlic bits, ginger and scallion.

Albondigas, Ceviche, 2109 Bayshore Blvd., Tampa, (813) 250-0134; or 10 Beach Drive, St Petersburg, (727) 209-2302. The king of tapas wins plaudits for these delicious little veal, chorizo and pork meatballs bobbing in an addictively rich tomato sauce. It's been a big year for the Ceviche empire; they've just launched Ceviche Orlando and added Pincho y Pincho, a breakfast and lunch spot next to the St. Petersburg Ceviche.

New tapas menu at Pepin Restaurant, 4125 Fourth St. N, St Petersburg, (727) 821-3773. Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks? The long-esteemed Pepin added new tastes in July, including fat sea scallops dressed in parsley and white wine and tenderloin empanadillas with tamarind mango sauce.

- - -

B (barbecue)

Brisket Basket, 2500 Fifth Ave. N, St. Petersburg, (727) 327-9712. Opened in May, it has taken St. Petersburg by storm with its slider basket. Sit at a picnic table outside and marvel at brisket meat loaf, ground brisket burger, carved brisket and a barbecue-sauced "sloppy" chopped brisket on pillowy little rolls, preferably accompanied by scary-good fries or green chile hominy.

The Butlers Barbecue, 1100 94th Ave. N, St. Petersburg, (727) 577-3294. Pure eastern North Carolina 'cue: pork roasted over an open grill, chopped, and then settled into a tangy bath of vinegar and red pepper sauce.

Kojak's House of Ribs, 2808 Gandy Blvd., Tampa, (813) 837-3774. A sign outside says, "Please don't feed the squirrels." A rookie Kojak's-goer may wonder if a squirrel would eat barbecued ribs, followed by the thought, "Well, I'm not sharing these ribs (pork, dry rubbed overnight, smoked for 2-3 hours, then served in the buff) with the dang squirrels . . . or anybody else."

BBQ stand, N Dale Mabry Highway and W Humphrey Street, just south of Busch Boulevard, Tampa. Pick up chopped pork or caramel-colored barbecued duck alongside spicy green papaya salad and pot stickers.

- - -

C (cheap eats)

Fast food may be increasingly un-p.c., but that doesn't mean you don't occasionally need something quick and cheap.

Five Guys Famous Burgers and Fries, with seven Tampa Bay area locations and more coming soon (www.fiveguys.com). The Virginia-based chain is gaining market share locally due to its free in-the-shell peanuts, spectacular fries and burgers lavishly accessorized then packaged in no-frills, no-logos, brown-paper bags like the olden days.

Chipotle, with seven Tampa Bay area locations (www.chipotle.com). Despite its McDonald's parentage, Chipotle is a fairly new fastie that's doing some things right, emphasizing spice and health in their burrito bowls.

Pollo Tropical, 3900 Park Blvd., Pinellas Park, (727) 362-9600. The Miami-based chain, which had disappeared from the area for several years, also follows the healthy fast-food formula, trafficking in Caribbean-style, citrus-marinated grilled chicken served in a clean, bright environment.

Pei Wei Asian Diner, 12927 N Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa, (813) 960-2031. By most accounts it's still working out the kinks, but PF Chang's fast concept stays focused on healthful choices with its Mandarin-wokked Thai, Vietnamese, Japanese and Chinese noodle and rice dishes.

- - - 

D (dessert)

Harry Waugh Dessert Room at Bern's Steak House, 1208 S Howard Ave., Tampa, (813) 251-2421. In August, the fabled dessert room unveiled a new menu, tossing out 10 duds, adding 10 cutting-edge new ones and tinkering with a bunch of old favorites. In summary, a good move (especially the chocolate peanut butter cream pie).

Chocolate Pi, 2821 S MacDill Ave., Tampa, (813) 831-2195; and Cakes on the Dot, 2245 Nursery Road, Clearwater, (727) 507-7077. These are the spots to pick up that birthday cake par excellence. I saw a Dot cake in the shape of a lion that was not to be believed.

Ritter's Frozen Custard, 2655 East Lake Road, Palm Harbor, (727) 784-0220. Part of a chain, Ritter's has been around four years on the strength of its vanilla.

Casa Dolce, 406 S Howard Ave., Tampa, (813) 259-0002. A new arrival in 2006, the shop has settled in on the basis of its milk chocolate gelato (and free WiFi and late hours).

- - -

E (entertainment) 

Man cannot live by food alone. Well, maybe he can, but a little entertainment is nice.

Country Legends Cafe, 1568 Main St., Dunedin, (727) 736-4247. This newcomer's walls are festooned with Tim, Faith, Shania and Garth, its live music following suit. The hard-working Dunne family serves up casual breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

Skipper's Smokehouse, 910 Skipper Road, Tampa, (813) 977-6474. The grouper Reuben eaten with the Siberian surf-rock sounds of the Red Elvises or the pedal-steel stylings of the Lee Boys in the background is mighty nice.

Mad Dogs & Englishmen, 4115 S MacDill Ave., Tampa, (813) 832-3037. This is the spot for sheer open-mike night talent, best appreciated with an order of chicken curry or masala cod.

- - -

F (fish)

Mad Fish, 5200 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach, (727) 360-9200. A newcomer, opened by Dan Casey just down the road from his other seafooder, Snapper's, Mad Fish is set in a gorgeous chrome diner car retrofitted with African mahogany. Special kudos for the fat onion rings and the ceviche flavored, surprisingly, with orange soda.

Mystic Fish, 3253 Tampa Road, Palm Harbor, (727) 771-1800. Owners Eugen Fuhrmann and Doug Bebell had years at the Lobster Pot in Redington Shores and Guppy's On the Beach in Indian Rocks Beach between them before opening Mystic Fish in 2001. Not surprisingly, it's fresh seafood, front and center.

Salt Rock Grill, 19325 Gulf Blvd., Indian Shores, (727) 593-7625; and Marlin Darlin, 2819 West Bay Drive, Belleair Bluffs, (727) 84-1700. This pair from the seafood dynastic duo, Tom Pritchard and Frank Chivas, are getting along swimmingly. At the former, the menu has enticing seafood - pan-seared scallops, grouper chowder - but steaks emerge from the kitchen with expert handling, aged in-house and grilled over a super hot natural oak and citrus wood pit fire. The latter brings a new level of sophistication, and world-beat spices, to finfish and shellfish alike.

- - -

G (Greek) 

Mykonos, 628 Dodecanese Blvd., Tarpon Springs, (727) 934-4306. This Sponge Docks stalwart is still doing what it does well, with soutzoukakia, taramosalata, patatokeftedes and other delicious things I can be counted upon to spell wrong.

Panos Kouzina, 3101 State Road 580, Safety Harbor, (727) 797-2667. Opened in 2006, the comfy neighborhood joint serves a munificent Greek salad, souvlaki and appetizer sampler.

Acropolis, 14947 Bruce B. Downs Blvd., Tampa, (813) 971-1787. The New Tampa sister to the Acropolis Greek Tavern in Ybor opened recently, complete with breaking plates, "opa" yelled at intervals and affordable Greek comfort foods (love the avgolemono, Greek chicken soup for the soul).

- - -

H (hot dogs)

Mel's, 4136 E Busch Blvd., Tampa, (813) 985-8000. The venerable Mel's is for sale, its fate unknown at this time. Chicago-dog fans may soon be hanging crepe, so eat up now.

Chi-Town Dogs, 4115 66th St. N, St. Petersburg, (727) 343-9003. The Windy City natives do a fine job with regular and Polish dogs along with major Chicago staples: Italian beef with gravy, Chicago beef tamales (they look like hotdogs), Jays potato chips and Salerno butter cookies.

Dairy Inn, 1201 Dr. Martin Luther King St. N, St. Petersburg, (727) 822-6971. The sexagenarian, closed for a few days for a spruce-up, serves a dandy dog that is sometimes eclipsed by the Coney Island chili or the housemade root beer.

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I (Italian)

Pia's Trattoria, 3054 Beach Blvd. S, Gulfport, (727) 327-2190. Among my favorite finds of the year, Pia's has a short menu, the same at lunch and dinner. Weighted to crusty pressed panini and pastas topped with one of a handful of simple sauces, its strength lies in its building blocks. Arugula is peppery and spry, Parmesan nutty and crystalline. Tomatoes come deep red and flavorful, prosciutto and Genoa salami are the real deal.

Da Sesto, 7199 66th St., Pinellas Park, (727) 209-2695. This is the brainchild of Sesto Ramadori and Micheline Rozon, who also run the Florida Pasta Co. Not surprisingly, pasta dishes are stars at this intimate trattoria, which opened in 2007.

Vino e Pasta, 3603 W Gandy Blvd., Tampa, (813) 902-8466. Another cozy and charming trattoria, this one is owned by Spartaco Giolito, who also presides at Spartaco Trattoria nearby. Vino gets the nod, though, for its more reasonable prices and its slick little list of mix-and-match pastas and sauces (thumbs up on the puttanesca).

Pelagia, 4200 Jim Walter Blvd., Tampa, (813) 313-3235. The tiny facelift at the end of 2007 was hardly necessary as the bold palate in the dining room elegantly echoes chef Fabrizio Schenardi's lush Mediterranean cuisine.

Bella Brava, 515 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, (727) 895-5515. The restaurant is closed through Jan. 15 for a kitchen remodeling, but then it will be back up to speed, its concrete floors, liberal use of stainless steel, exposed ducting and high-tech circular Italian track lighting all shorthand for "expect slick Northern Italian food." Which means the bruschetta, risotti and antipasti that new generations of Tampa Bay area residents are being weaned on.

- - -

J (Japanese) 

Pacific Wave, 211 Second St. S, St. Petersburg, (727) 822-5235. New owner Dan Smith has gussied up the space a bit and devoted himself to acquiring topnotch Hawaiian fish for his sushi and Japanese-inflected entrees.

Zen Bistro, 9620 W Linebaugh Ave., Tampa, (813) 792-8665. Hoang Le's year-old bistro has been satisfying Westchase night owls with an increasingly ambitious array of late-night specialty rolls, slickly paired with an exotic martini menu and spicy Vietnamese dishes like lime beef.

Water, Unique Sushi, 1015 S Howard Ave., Tampa, (813) 251-8406. Connected to Ciccio and Tony's (literally and figuratively - same owners as the C&T right next door), Water wows South Tampa hipsters with its rice-paper-rolled sushi (no nori) and sticky rice bowls draped with lustrous fish and snappy veggies. Sauces like neon chive puree or slow-burn Sriracha aioli elevate it all.

Kiku Japanese Fine Dining, 483 Mandalay Ave., Clearwater, (727) 461-2633. When you're ready to declare "omakase" (essentially, "let it rip, Chef, I'm putty in your hands"), the man behind the sushi counter here is one to trust for the freshest fish flown in from Hawaii, Seattle, Boston, California and New York.

- - -

K (kid-friendly)

"Kid friendly" doesn't mean reflexively heading to the nearest Chuck E. Cheese's. A restaurant doesn't have to have a jungle gym to fit the bill, but it can't be too loud, or too quiet, too fancy or too down-and-out.

Sneaky Pete's Sports Grill, 4300 Park Blvd., Pinellas Park, (727) 541-6356. The newcomer is a Little Leaguer's dream come true, with 30 TVs, games, solid wings and other diversions.

Pete & Shorty's of Clearwater, 2820 Gulf-to-Bay Blvd., Clearwater, (727) 799-0580. The family-friendly formula is so successful that they recently opened a second location in Las Vegas. Kids can choose from the usual suspects, improved by the option of mashed potatoes instead of fries and a freebie "mouse" sundae with Oreo ears and a cherry nose.

Matchstick Grill, 10500 Ulmerton Road, Largo Mall, Largo, (727) 585-1816. The decor nods to 1950s cowboy movies. The menu includes Tumbleweed pork chops and, incongruous but tasty, blueberry wontons.

HD Sports Grill, 33286 U.S. 19 N, Palm Harbor, (727) 789-9383. The 33 high-definition plasma screens set the stage for game viewing and a moderately priced menu, heavy on the appetizers.

- - -

L (Latin)

Oaxacan:
Mariposa Mexican Grill, 17623 N Dale Mabry Highway, Lutz, (813) 264-1212. Rand Packer, Roy's celebrated former chef, went out on his own, with a second location scheduled to open this spring in the Trinity Town Center. It's an order-at-the-counter, funky and affordable outpost of regional Mexican cuisine - cooking from Oaxaca, the land of seven moles. Best dishes are the sopes and the smoked pork tacos. 

Colombian:
La Cabana Antioquena, 8303 N Armenia Ave., Tampa, (813) 936-0078. The affordable rotisserie chicken, fried plantains and slow-cooked beans have an ardent following.

Sabor Sensations, 4020 W Kennedy Blvd., Tampa, (813) 286-2434. The casual cafe serves breakfasts, lunches and dinners of salmon ahumado (a smoked salmon crepe with red onion and caper), chocolate derretido crepe and a refreshing fruit beverage called salpicon. It introduced the area to Colombian crepes. 

Peruvian:
Ceviche Fresco, 6742 Memorial Highway, Tampa, (813) 882-3032. The spot in a Home Depot shopping center is ambitious, with sophisticated renderings of dishes such as causitas, mashed potato mixed with lime, chiles and spices, then topped with choices like olive-sauced octopus or shrimp escabeche. 

Indeterminate Latin
Mr. Empanada, 4836 N Armenia Ave., Tampa, (813) 879-6232; Carrollwood Center, Tampa, (813) 908-6202; 3953 W Kennedy Blvd., Tampa, (813) 872-6233; 7541 W Hillsborough Ave., Tampa, (813) 249-6233. The growing empire, with two more locations on the way, is metastasizing on the merit of its beef, Italian sausage and guava and cream cheese empanadas. Plus, I like the name.

- - -

M (morning food)

The Kitchen, 409 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, (727) 895-3300. Margaret Guidicessi already had a near-cult following for her Bowl A Granola at the Saturday Morning Market, but her new storefront is chock-full of pastries, muffins, cookies and other breakfast goodies to power downtown office hands.

Globe Coffee Lounge, 532 First Ave. N, St. Petersburg, (727) 898-5282. The Globe beguiles with its bohemian vibe and top-notch coffee (complete with seasonal latte art).

Pach Place, 2909 W Bay To Bay Blvd., No. 101, Tampa, (813) 831-7122. Old-school, rib-sticking breakfasts are king, but extra points for purveying chipped beef, which is an endangered species.

Skyway Jack's Restaurant, 2795 34th St. S, St. Petersburg, (727) 867-1907. I had my first meal here last year. Didn't muster the gumption for scrambled pork brains with eggs, potatoes and grits, but there's always next time.

- - -

N (new)

Anticipation:
The Table, 535 Central Ave., St. Petersburg. The second location of the Sarasota restaurant is set to open Jan. 24. Following in the footsteps of its big brother to the south, it will feature Atlantic-rim cuisine (that's roughly Floribbean/South American/Caribbean).

Ooze and Schmooze, 400 Beach Drive, St. Petersburg. Sir Robert Irvine's much ballyhooed dining duo is poised to open in March, barring any unforeseen construction issues. What's the cuisine? According to Irvine, of Food Network's Dinner: Impossible: "Classical cuisine with an innovative flair using modern and classical techniques, otherwise known as Robertisms." Hmm. Anyway, Ooze will be the more casual, tapas-style spot, while Schmooze will be fine dining.

Hammerhead Grille, 256 Second St. N, St. Petersburg, (727) 823-1848. The new venture from the people who owned Rattlefish aims to open at the end of January in the former site of Julian's at the Heritage.

 

Just open:
Queen of Sheba, 3636 Henderson Blvd., Tampa, (813) 872-6000. The Ethiopian restaurant opened in December, purveying affordable stews scooped up with spongy injera.

Bungalow Bistro, 5137 N Florida Ave., Tampa, (813) 237-2000. The new Seminole Heights joint serves a serious burger.

Chez Bryce, 238 E Davis Blvd., Davis Islands, Tampa, (813) 258-8100. Chef-owner Bryce Whittlesey knows his way around classical techniques, especially when it comes to lush desserts like lemon curd tart or chocolate pots de creme. For something gastronomically ambitious, try the hanger steak with braised sunchokes.

- - -

O (oenophile)

Bobby's Bistro, 447 Mandalay Ave., Clearwater Beach, (727) 446-9463. Parent restaurant Bob Heilman's Beachcomber has been a beefy Wine Spectator award winner for years on the basis of its Burgundies, but Bobby's is sheer lusciousness for the Oregon and California pinot noir lover.

Clearwater Wine Co., 483 Mandalay Ave., Suite 113, Clearwater Beach, (727) 446-8805. Tio Pepe, Charley's Steakhouse, the Columbia, Bern's and Domenic's Capri Italian Restaurant always get major plaudits for the breadth of their lists, but often this amounts to us mere mortals looking wistfully as we turn the pages of the phone-book-thick tome. This fun place to taste more than 40 by the glass just celebrated its first anniversary. Kristi Lam and her parents orchestrate a casual, living-room atmosphere some Friday nights with live music, offering tipples from every major wine producing region in the world, with deep happy hour discounts between 5 and 7 p.m. (Oh, and there's a "Yappy Hour" the last Saturday of the month for the sophisticated dog and his owner.)

Wine Exchange, 1611 W Swann Ave., Tampa, (813) 254-9463. Resurrected after a strange closure last year and pouring interesting flights by the glass, its building is slated for demolition soon. So the W.E. will move down the block in March to the site of Coco Brazil.

- - -

P (pizza)

Cristino's Coal Oven Pizza, 1101 S Fort Harrison Ave., Clearwater, (727) 443-4900. New in 2007, turning out coal-oven style, a la Lombardi's or Patsy Grimaldi's in New York: thin-crust, cheesy, with those charry black bubbles pocking the crust. Go for a pie, but don't skimp on the gelato at dessert.

Pane Rustica, 3225 S MacDill Ave., Tampa, (813) 902-8828. Another thin-crust hotshot, but with a Cal-Ital sensibility, Pane Rustica sets out by-the-slice options like one with a mantle of gorgonzola hiding sweet lengths of caramelized shallot, or another of ricotta salata enlivened with olive tapenade and sun-dried tomatoes. Even with prices creeping up slightly, Kevin and Karyn Kruszewski's success story is one of the best bargain dinners in Tampa, serving Wednesday through Saturday nights.

Cappy's, 3200 W Bay to Bay Blvd., Tampa, (813) 835-0785; and 4910 N Florida Ave., Tampa, (813) 238-1516. On the other end of the pizza aesthetic, with a rumored third location opening in St. Petersburg in 2008, Cappy's makes thick, pile-on-the-toppings deep-dishers, with Stella, Hoegaarden and other excellent beers on tap. Open only for dinner, they are also cash only. The newer Seminole Heights location faced major zoning hassles this year and its future is uncertain.

- - - 

Q (quaffs)

For non-wine beverages of note.

Cafe Alma, 260 First Ave. S, St. Petersburg, (727) 502-5002. It's hard to beat the Bloody Mary bar at the Saturday brunch. Ratchet it up with all the horseradish you feel is necessary, cooling it down with that miracle celery or an order of blue crab Benedict.

Bellini, 2832-2838 Beach Blvd., Gulfport, (727) 327-4222. The sleek New York-style lounge attached to La Fogata would make you feel hip even slurping an O'Doul's with a bendy straw. However, its cocktail list is top-notch, with items such as the Divine Goddess (Van Gogh pomegranate vodka, Cointreau, sour mix and cranberry garnished with a flower) for all your antioxidant needs.

Roy's, 4342 W Boy Scout Blvd., (813) 873-7697. What better to precede Pacific Rim seafood than a bracing Asian lemon drop of Skyy citrus vodka, Zen green tea liqueur, Patron Citronge liqueur, sweet & sour and ginger? No wonder the Tampa dining cognoscenti has embraced the lively and uber-stylish Hawaiian-fusion brainchild of celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi. Several years in, Roy's has still got the kind of buzz that could cover a whole bunch of power tools in action.

Coyote Ugly, 1722 E Seventh Ave., Ybor City, (813) 228-8459. For sheer memorableness, a body shot is something. Yet, if that's so, why is that memory so fuzzy?

- - - 

R (retooling)

It was a year of change for several of the area's high profile restaurants.

Chateau France, 136 Fourth Ave. NE, St. Petersburg, (727) 894-7163. The expansion dreams of the St. Petersburg mainstay didn't work out. Owner Antoine Louro closed both his Dale Mabry location in Tampa and his new South Tampa location on Howard. The original is going strong, serving up classical (and pricey) tableside Dover sole, steak Diane and the strangely conceived Eiffel Tower salad.

Marchands, Renaissance Vinoy Resort, 501 Fifth Ave. NE, St. Petersburg, (727) 894-1000. Early in the year, Marchands saw a major makeover, from a new entrance foyer to a new wine cellar room, new armchairs and fabrics, and a fresh streamlined Mediterranean menu. Late in the year, executive chef John Pivar departed and executive sous chef Mark Heimann moved into the position.

SideBern's, 2208 W Morrison Ave., Tampa, (813) 258-2233. After nine years, executive chef Jeannie Pierola departed in November. Bern's owner David Laxer decided to promote from within, elevating sous chefs Andy Minney and Habteab Hamde to share the title of chefs de cuisine at Bern's, while at SideBern's Chad Johnson moved up to the role of executive chef. Johnson continues to turn out gorgeous dim sum and world-beat small plates, and the daily-changing selection of breads is absolutely knockout (curry sesame flatbread, kalamata and fig loaf).

Armani's, Grand Hyatt Tampa Bay, 2900 Bayport Drive, Tampa, (813) 207-6800. In April, the Grand Hyatt Tampa Bay unveiled Sven Ullrich as the new executive chef to head the culinary team at the hotel and at the uber-romantic Armani's. From all we can tell this means nothing but good things, from the buff antipasti bar to dishes like butter-tender veal scaloppini crowded with lengths of asparagus, artichokes and toasted pine nuts.

- - - 

S (steak)

The great steak wars heated up in the Tampa Bay area in 2007, with a whole new crop vying with the established meat mafia for carnivores' dollars.

Malio's Prime, 400 N Ashley Drive, Tampa, (813) 223-7746. In the category of new-and-old-at-the-same-time, Malio's Prime opened in Rivergate Tower, similar in name only to the historic restaurant Malio Iavarone ran on Dale Mabry. It's prime steaks served in a soaring-ceilinged dining room with banks of riverside windows. Lovely but loud.

Gallagher's Steak House, 615 Channelside Drive, No. 203, Tampa, (813) 229-8000. This is the fifth franchise that pays tribute to the historic New York flagship steak emporium. The space was inherited from the short-lived Signature Room, a pleasant corner spot with a spare, masculine aesthetic serving nicely marbled prime rib and justifiably famous potatoes (a baked potato meets a French fry halfway).

Council Oak, 5223 N Orient Road, Tampa, (813) 627-7628. Opened with much fanfare as part of the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, Tampa's big expansion, the restaurant is smack in the center of the gaming pandemonium. It's an elegant bastion of luxe seafood followed by big red meat, all capably prepared for the most part and presided over by a remarkably knowledgeable waitstaff.

Spotos Steak Joint, 1280 Main St., Dunedin, (727) 734-0008. All is not status quo at the old-timer. It's still sending out ably aged and prepared steaks. But get this, from a recent menu: filet of Burmese python. I kid you not. Owner Jimmy Stewart has gotten interested in wild game, importing a range of exciting options (rattlesnake, etc.) and holding occasional wine and game dinners. (Interestingly, the St. Petersburg location became Spoto's Italian Grille this past year, introducing a Tuscan menu.)

- - -

T (technology)

New technology has added unexpected excitement to a number of restaurants.

City Fish Seafood Grill & Chophouse, 4022 Tampa Road, Oldsmar, (813) 814-5800. At this newcomer, a sushi cam makes every meal a lesson in raw fish artistry.

BD's Mongolian Grill, 3140B Tampa Road, AMC 20 Plaza, Oldsmar, (727) 785-0300. Diners are presented with electronic survey machines. Tabulated nearly in real time, this technology promises to offer greater interactivity and positive changes in the dining experience.

Grille One Sixteen, 15405 N Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa, (813) 265-0116. I have to take people's word on it, but there are TVs in the men's rooms with an ESPN theme going on. What about the ladies?

- - -

U (underappreciated)

Red Mesa, 4912 Fourth St. N, St. Petersburg, (727) 527-8728. I know people have been eating their regional Mexican and southwest cuisine for a dozen years, but what people may not know is how much owners Peter and Shawn Veytia contribute to the community. Listen to a WMNF fund drive or peruse the contributor list for your favorite local charity event and chances are they're there.

Fly Bar and Restaurant, 1202 N Franklin St., Tampa, (813) 275-5000. The spot has added the buzz, so to speak, to downtown Tampa, persevering through two years of real estate remorse and providing an example to other restaurants: It is possible to have a successful restaurant downtown. Others are slowly following suit (see L'Eden and others), and Fly's new chef Rene Caceres will continue leading by example.

- - -

V (vegetarian) 

Consciousness Blossoms, 3390 Tampa Road, Palm Harbor, (727) 789-1931; and Grass Root, 2702 N Florida Ave., Tampa, (813) 221-7668. Both usually get top honors among vegetarians and vegans in the area, the latter even catering to "raw" food enthusiasts with classes each month. With raw food, the idea is to not take foods above a temperature threshold that will kill necessary enzymes. Sounds wacky, but dishes like "miso sipp," freshly sliced coconut noodles bobbing in a coconut broth with live miso and dulse seaweed, are easy to like. At Consciousness, look for the tofu scramble or the vegetarian Reuben.

Deeya Indian Cuisine, 5166 East Bay Drive, Clearwater, (727) 539-0273; Mirage Restaurant, 2284 Gulf-to-Bay Blvd., Clearwater, (727) 724-3604; and Udipi, 14422 N Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa, (813) 962-7300. Indian restaurants are often boons to the vegetarian, offering pulses and vegetable curries that add up to complex carbohydrates. These are all good. Udipi offers classic southern Indian dishes like masala dosa, huge, thin rice-and-lentil pancakes rolled into tubes, or uthapam, a soft white pancake in which things like tomato, peas, cilantro and onion are embedded.

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W (waterfront)

Tampa is woefully underserved by waterfront restaurants, the demise of ones like Rattlefish, Whiskey Joe's and Crawdaddy's leaving an even deeper dearth. A roundup early this year revealed, however, that the Pinellas County beach bar is alive and well.

Undertow Beach Bar, 3850 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach, (727) 368-9000. The Undertow gets special props for its dog-friendliness and running-water moat inset in the long oval-shaped bar. Also, good wings.

Shephard's Beach Resort, 601-619 S Gulfview Blvd., Clearwater Beach, (727) 441-6875. This hot spot impresses with its buzzy, Party Central feeling and easygoing live reggae.

Bon Appetit, 150 Marina Plaza, Dunedin, (727) 733-2151. For something snazzier, this is a longtime special-occasion destination. Truth is, the adjacent Marine Cafe is a little less stuffy, where you can watch the dolphins frolic and select from a short list of "signature dishes" from the main restaurant.

Rusty's, Sheraton Sand Key, 1160 Gulf Blvd., Clearwater, (727) 595-1611. The secret weapon: executive chef John Harris, from whom emanate thoughtful spins on Floribbean seafood.

Island Way Grill, 20 Island Way, Clearwater, (727)461-6617. If it seems like including yet another venture by local restaurateur legends Tom Pritchard and Frank Chivas is sucking up, so be it.

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X (eXtravagant)

Peking duck, China Yuan, 8502 N Armenia Ave., Tampa, (813) 936-7388. Proof that extravagant needn't be expensive. This duck (caramel-colored and hanging sadly by the neck) with the bones, Cantonese style, is just $16.95. But the whole two-course Peking style, first the little pancakes or buns (they do both) with hoisin and scallion, crisp-skinned boned-out duck, then a second course of the bones in soup, is $29.99 and feeds a bunch. China Yuan just finished a massive remodeling and gussying up, so it's a major must for Chinese food fans.

Dou of duck, Cafe Ponte, 13505 Icot Blvd., Largo, (727) 538-5768. Chris Ponte's duck quacks of major sumptuousness: braised thigh and pan-roasted breast with a heady Asian spice, paired with seared foie gras, a gingered sweet potato pancake and a orange-Szechwan peppercorn sauce.

Surf and turf, Savant Fine Dining, 2551 Drew St., Suite 107, Clearwater, (727) 421-9975. Among the glut of luxurious offerings here, chef David Miller is especially proud these days of his spin on an old favorite: two West Indies lobster tails, brined in brown sugar and fresh horseradish, wrapped in pancetta and then skewered on sugar cane, paired with a Hereford dry-aged filet, sauced with a rhubarb, cranberry and tarragon demiglace.

Langoustines, Restaurant BT, 1633 W Snow Ave., Tampa, (813) 258-1916. More delicious sugar cane is employed with those creepy-big crustaceans, nestled in tender-crisp Asian veggies and spunky lemongrass rice.

The olive oil selection, Mazzaro Italian Market, 2909 22nd Ave. N, St. Petersburg, (727) 321-2400. I know it's not a restaurant or even a single dish, but one aisle that fills me with equal measures joy and awe. Count the number of deep jewel-green options, then look up at the truffle oils.

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Y (y'all come back now, ya hear)

Savannah's, 1113 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, (727) 388-4371; and Tedesco's Grillside, 437 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, (727) 894-2802). Downtown St. Petersburg got a Southern accent in 2007. The former is Edyth James and John Warren's collaboration, bringing shrimp and grits, fried chicken and collards to a restored 1926 storefront. The latter is at the site of the old McCrory's dime store in St. Petersburg, where smart, young chef Daniel Womack is experimenting with high-style spins on down-home classics.

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Z (zany)

Beak's Old Florida, 2451 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, (727) 321-9100, over 21 only. One of the first places I reviewed on the job, this bar/restaurant charmed me with its accretion-of-tchotchke decor and tongue-in-cheek Old Florida sensibility (plus, the crab corn dogs and "smashed tamale souffle" are easy to love).

Kelly's, For Just About Anything, 319 Main St., Dunedin, (727) 736-5284. Virgel Kelly has an inimitable more-is-more aesthetic, with a menu that rivals Tolstoy for reader stamina. Its Chic-A-Boom Room next door is more serious evidence that Dunedin has one of the most lighthearted, fun-loving communities around.

Contact Laura Reiley at (727) 892-2293 or lreiley@sptimes.com. Her blog, the Mouth of Tampa Bay, can be found at www.blogs.tampabay.com/dining. Reiley dines anonymously and unannounced. The Times pays all expenses. Advertising has nothing to do with selection for review or the assessment.

[Last modified December 31, 2007, 17:23:10]