Reports warn of mercury levels in tuna

Samples pack near double FDA estimates, study says.

By LAURA REILEY and STEPHEN NOHLGREN, Times Staff Writer
Published January 24, 2008

Mercury concentrations in tuna steaks and sushi tuna are nearly twice as high as U.S. Food and Drug Administration estimates -- and roughly at levels that the agency warns about in other fish, two new reports suggest.

Oceana, an international organization trying to force grocery stores to post mercury warning signs, sampled tuna steaks from 23 stores and sushi from 24 restaurants around the United States in November.

Tuna mercury levels averaged 0.68 parts per million in the stores and 0.86 parts per million in sushi restaurants, Oceana said Wednesday. The FDA estimates mercury levels of 0.73 in king mackerel, one of the fish the government thinks children and women of child-bearing age should not eat.

Some of the highest mercury levels in tuna showed up in a St. Petersburg sushi restaurant and seven Publix grocery stores, including a St. Petersburg store that sold a tuna steak with 1.8 parts per million.

"We were shocked," said Jacqueline Savitz, leader of the Oceana project. The group works to protect the oceans and claims representatives around the world. "Tuna is the most heavily consumed fish in the country."

In unrelated testing, the New York Times reported Tuesday that tuna sampled in Manhattan sushi restaurants showed similar mercury levels. Five of the 20 registered at 1 part per million or higher.

The FDA sets no standard for acceptable mercury in tuna. But it does set some standards for imported swordfish. At 1 part per million or higher, the FDA has legal authority to turn away swordfish imports.

FDA officials did not respond to requests for comments, but the National Fisheries Institute, a seafood industry group, blasted the New York Times, suggesting that the newspaper relied on a biased scientist and neglected to note important health benefits of eating tuna, which are high in Omega-3 fatty acids.

The 1 part per million standard that applies to imported swordfish "is a calculated estimate that also includes a tenfold safety factor," the fisheries institute said in a release.

Concerns about mercury in fish have risen just as seafood is increasingly touted as a healthy alternative to beef or pork.

According to the FDA, exposure to high levels of methylmercury can harm an unborn baby's developing nervous system. After birth, such children are at risk for limited attention span, poor language and memory and lower IQ.

What's unknown is how much fish is safe to eat.

In 2004, the Environmental Protection Agency and the FDA formally advised that consumption of canned albacore tuna and tuna steaks be limited to 6 ounces per week or less for young children and women of childbearing age.

The government also advised children and child-bearing women to avoid eating swordfish, tilefish, king mackerel and shark altogether.

Those fish have average mercury levels of 0.73 parts per million or higher, according to the FDA Web site. Tuna steaks, according to the FDA, average 0.38 parts per million.

Oceana and the New York Times found much higher levels.

Tuna served in sushi restaurants surveyed by the newspaper was mostly bluefin tuna and averaged 0.79 parts per million. Sushi tuna tested by Oceana averaged 0.86.

The highest level was at Hook's Sushi Bar on Dr. Martin Luther Jr. King Street in St. Petersburg, which logged in at 1.4 parts per million.

Manager Nga Lai said she buys fresh tuna three or four times a week and assumes if there is any potential problem, her supplier should be checking for it.

Seven Publix grocery stores, including four in Florida, were among the 23 stores sampled by Oceana. The organization singled out Publix because it is pressuring the chain to post warning signs about mercury. Publix makes brochures available in seafood departments to inform people about mercury, but does not feel that signs are necessary, spokeswoman Shannon Patten said.

"We worked with the FDA and the EPA and the Food Marketing Institute to see that we have the most accurate, up-to-date information. We don't tell people what to eat; we let customers make informed decisions."

Mercury levels in tuna steaks from the Publix stores ranged from 0.73 parts per million to 1.8, Oceana said. The group did not identify the St. Petersburg store with the highest reading.

Publix gets some of its tuna from Save On Seafood, a St. Petersburg supplier, as does Hooks. Both outlets get yellowfin tuna, mostly from the Gulf of Mexico, said Save On owner Gibby Migliano.

Migliano said the Oceana and New York Times results were hard to believe. Save On is not required to test tuna, but does anyway, about once a quarter, he said. None has ever shown levels above 1 part per million.

[Last modified January 24, 2008, 00:25:57]