Taste

Cocktail sauce worthy of a fine kettle of fish

By Kathy Saunders, Times Correspondent
Published January 30, 2008

Cocktail sauce ranking

1. Crosse & Blackwell

2. Albertsons

3. Bookbinder's 

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Winter usually attracts more grouper to the shallow waters behind our home and more seafood to our dinner table. That means it's time to stock up on cocktail sauces as well.

Taster's Choice panelists sampled 12 varieties of jarred seafood cocktail sauces and found one standout and a couple that would work in a pinch.

A sauce by Crosse & Blackwell $2.29 for 12 ounces at Publix was the preferred brand, receiving 70 of 100 possible points from judges. All four said they will buy the brand, which is part of the J.M. Smucker Co.

Judges described the sauce as "classic" and "horseradishy."

They liked that it wasn't too sweet, and they described its red color as "a blushing tomato."

The other brands scored much lower in comparison, receiving 45 and 44 points, respectively.

The second pick was the Albertsons store brand ($1.69 for 12 ounces). One of the judges said he would buy the brand for its mild, hot-sauce-like flavor.

"This has a distinctive, yummy taste," he said. "It would be excellent on catfish fried in vegetable oil and coated in bread crumbs."

The others likened the Albertsons brand more to ketchup than cocktail sauce, and it was a bit too salty for their tastes.

"I couldn't imagine it married to a shrimp," said one.

Likewise, a sauce by Bookbinder's ($1.99 for 9 ounces at Publix) received mixed reactions from judges.

Again, one judge said he would buy the brand for its balance of salt and horseradish flavor.

The others were turned off by the apple red color and the smoky, hot flavor.

Also sampled were cocktail sauces byTexas Pete ($2.29 for 12 ounces from Sweetbay); Seminole ($2.49 for 9 ounces from Sweetbay); Hannaford ($1.59 for 12 ounces from Sweetbay); Louisiana ($2.79 for 12 ounces from Sweetbay); Publix ($1.99 for 15 ounces); Kraft ($1.46 for 10 ounces from Wal-Mart); Heinz ($1.48 for 12 ounces from Wal-Mart); McCormick ($1.48 for 8 ounces from Wal-Mart); and Great Value ($1.46 for 11 ounces from Wal-Mart).

Panelists wereNan Jensen, registered dietitian with Pinellas County Cooperative Extension; Bob Devin Jones, artistic director of Studio@620; Jim Yockey, aesthetician at Anu You Institute; and personal chef and caterer Kay Studer. All foods were tasted blind.

Send suggestions for product tastings to Taste, St. Petersburg Times, P.O. Box 1121, St. Petersburg, FL 33731 or e-mail them to jkeeler@sptimes.com. Please put TEST SUGGESTION in the subject line. To read past columns, go to food.tampabay.com and look for "Taste Tests."

[Last modified January 29, 2008, 12:03:45]