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Dish

By JANET K. KEELER

© St. Petersburg Times, published January 10, 2001


deconstructing

explanations from the inside out

Cuban sandwich

photo

Think of the famed Cuban sandwich as a way to eat three varieties of pork all at once -- ham, salami and roast pork. Add a couple slices of Swiss cheese, some mustard, a few dill pickle chips all slapped between slightly sweet Cuban bread, and you've got the sandwich of legend. What legend, though, is unclear.

Though some say the sandwich got its start in the United States in Miami in the 1930s, the cigar rollers of Ybor City had been eating them since at least the turn of the century. It wasn't until the 1960s and the rise of Fidel Castro that Miami's Cuban population began to boom.

There are many variations on the basic Cuban sandwich, though: pressed or room temperature (never cold), turkey instead of salami or turkey alone for lighter tastes or just roast pork. The cheese is also up for interpretation, but it likely started as Swiss, Edam or Gouda, cheeses that have been expertly exported and imported for many years. Definite no-nos are mayonnaise, lettuce and tomato. That, mis amigos, is a sub sandwich.

this web site cooks

http://www.cookinglight.com

If you love the magazine, you'll like this site, especially the archive that allows you to search for recipes from past issues.

Coolest feature is a virtual tour of the Cooking Light test kitchens where staffers develop recipes with no more than 30 percent fat. The chat rooms offer feedback on the magazine's recipes plus information about "supper clubs" around the country, including groups in Clearwater, St. Petersburg, Sarasota and Tampa, where participants try out the recipes and critique them.

cooking class

Many recipes call for a small amount of chopped celery. Rather than breaking off one stalk, Cook's Illustrated magazine suggests chopping the entire bunch across the top, making it easier to get the amount you want. The bunch gets shorter as you chop, making it more convenient to store. You can wash the celery after you cut it.

constant comment

"I've been on a diet for two weeks, and all I've lost is two weeks." -- late comedian Totie Fields

chic in a can

photoWhen trendy produce makes it to a can, you know it has gone mainstream. The earthy portobello mushroom, prized for its meatlike texture, is being canned by Pennsylvania Dutchman, which prefers an alternate spelling, portabella. A 7-ounce can of mushroom chunks costs about 90 cents. Use them in soups, omelets or dips or as a lusty topping for grilled steak. They have the slightly slimy texture of other canned mushrooms but retain the bolder taste of the portobello.

rice gone wild

Wild rice is known for its nutty flavor and chewy texture, and it isn't really rice at all. Instead, it's a long-grain marsh grass native to the northern Great Lakes area. For a free wild rice recipe brochure that includes dishes such as Fruity Wild Rice Bread and Cheesy Scalloped Wild Rice and Tomatoes, send a self-addressed, stamped envelope to Minnesota Cultivated Wild Rice Council, 4630 Churchill St., St. Paul, MN 55126.

wasssssabi?

Wasabi may do more than add a kick to sushi. The pungent green horseradish also could prevent tooth decay, according to findings presented at a recent scientific meeting sponsored in part by the American Chemical Society. Researchers from Japan found that chemicals in wasabi inhibit the growth of bacteria that cause dental decay.

can't get enough

For our money, the best-of-show product at last fall's Fiery Foods show in St. Petersburg was chipotle mayonnaise. It's sweet at first taste, then the heat from the smoky peppers spreads until the complex flavors set your mouth to rockin'. Chef Hilary Craig, a transplanted Floridian, devised the formula in his Everett, Wash., restaurant, Alligator Soul. Peppers on The Pier (727-898-7437), at The Pier in downtown St. Petersburg, carries the lip-smacking mayo. Cost is $5.95 per bottle.

Correction

We erred last week in our description of light olive oil. It is a blend of highly refined refined olive oil and virgin or extra virgin olive. The reason it is labeled "light" is because of the pale color and the more subtle olive taste.

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