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Side dish
By CHRIS SHERMAN
© St. Petersburg Times, published February 15, 2001
FOURTH STREET EXTENDED
A year ago they were only the toast of St. Petersburg's Fourth Street. Now they're baby chains. A second Bonefish Grill is planned for S Tamiami Trail in Sarasota. Bonefishers will soon wet a line in Countryside too. Investors took Fred's Famous Bar-B-Q farther faster and opened four more Fred's (Clearwater, Port Richey, Ocala and south Tampa). Next will be at U.S. 19 and Nebraska in Palm Harbor.
OLD RECIPE
The Kingfish has returned. The John's Pass landmark has reopened, a mile south in the former BoJan's. New Kingfish (13155 Gulf Blvd., Treasure Island; (727) 394-7421) has the same owners (the Rice family), old photos and kettles behind the bar for chowder and shellfish; a collection of stuffed fish will move later. Dinners run $11 to $20.
WHATEVER
O'Gradney's Bistro in west St. Petersburg has asked diners to help rename it. "I love my own name," says owner Sharon O'Gradney. But others expect it to be an Irish pub and are surprised by its elegant food, from nouvelle to Moroccan.
I'LL HAVE ANOTHER . . .
Cut of pork. We do eat higher on the hog these days. A chicken-weary nation rediscovered the pig (just as researchers succeeded in taking the fat and flavor out of some pigs). Now, beside pork chops and loin, we're getting pork mignons and pork porterhouse too.
-- CHRIS SHERMAN, Times food critic
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Fried Oreo. Newest Florida State Fair food is the beloved sandwich cookie, dipped in batter, fried to a golden puff with hot fudgy core and dusted with powdered sugar. Proud inventor Paul Gaudino of Brooklyn has 'em at his funnel-cake stand near the antique steam engines by Gate One.
-- CHRIS SHERMAN, Times food critic
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