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First Bite
By CHRIS SHERMAN
© St. Petersburg Times, published February 22, 2001
Perch and Ten Beach Drive
Downtown St. Petersburg's journey from famine to gourmet feast continues to speed up.
Three blocks from the bright lights, big hype of BayWalk, another dramatic restaurant scene is growing quietly at a long-established (and long-neglected) corner of downtown.
After more than a year of renovations, local developer Rob Gordon has built a glitzy Perch for steaks, seafood and contemporary gourmet cooking in the Hotel Ponce de Leon and reopened the Ten Beach Drive piano bar below. He installed Michael Donoho, formerly of Le Bordeaux and the Wine Exchange in Tampa and Hotel Nikko in Beverly Hills, as chef for both.
The food and setting are packed with eye appeal. The upstairs salon is sexy creams and neutrals with slick metal surfaces, billowing curtains and a disco-lit waterfall; the clubby downstairs bar is rich warm woods, natch (and yes, there's still smoking).
So far there's only one menu for both, running from high-end burgers ($9 but Black Angus) to spiny lobster and beef with luxury garnishes, plus amuses and classical desserts such as pots au chocolat.
Waiters apologize that the menu is "short," but it's already the most extravagant taste of New Florida cooking and game in Pinellas yet. It ranges from lively alligator-black bean chili to remarkably tender farm-raised baby conch. Entrees include an abundant bouillabaisse lightly chili'ed up and show-off platters of 24-ounce T-bones. Everything's presented with wow: even wild rice and blue corn polenta come as pyramids.
Both serve dinner Tuesday through Saturday now (entrees $17 to $40) and plan to open for lunch and dinner daily later.
95 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; (727) 551-0300
- CHRIS SHERMAN, Times food critic
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