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Crab Shack keeps folks coming back

No wonder this landmark restaurant is as busy as ever. The seafood is as fresh as it can get, and the variety is eye-popping.

By WILMA NORTON

© St. Petersburg Times, published February 28, 2001


Here's a tip: If you're thinking of picking up dinner from the Crab Shack, first check out the restaurant's Web site (http://www.crabshack.com) to look at the menu and phone ahead.

This is a hopping place, one that's packed almost all the time, especially on weekends. There isn't much standing or sitting room for those waiting for tables or picking up food. When we dropped in for takeout on the spur of the moment on a recent Sunday night, we had to spend our 25-minute wait pressed against a wall, trying to keep from tripping servers carrying large trays.

Some patrons waiting to be seated got out of the way by standing between tables filled with diners. Next time, we'll call first.

The servers here seem to be used to the crowded conditions. They were efficient and pleasant, even complimenting my daughter for waiting so patiently. They loaded our bags carefully to be sure the soup didn't spill, threw in handfuls of cocktail and tartar sauce packets and offered utensils.

The food, for the most part, was worth the wait.

The girls and I shared the "super sea feast" combo meal and had food to spare.

For $12.75, we got lightly fried grouper, shrimp, scallops, clam strips and a huge crab cake. The dinner came with a big baked potato and a small salad of lettuce, tomato and onion. The thick piece of grouper was as big as my hand. The crab cake was enormous, too, though it had a bit too much breading and too little crab for my taste.

There were at least a half-dozen each of the smallish shrimp and scallops and ample clams. Even though I was starved and both our girls have hearty appetites, the dinner was more than we could finish.

My husband selected a bowl of the Creole Cajun soup ($3.75, $2.75 for a cup) and an oyster poor boy ($6.75). He really liked the tomato-based soup, packed with several kinds of seafood and a spicy kick.

The oysters on the sandwich were good as well, as lightly fried as our combination dinner. But we should have read the menu more carefully. The poor boy here isn't like the po' boys we get in New Orleans. Here, it comes with bacon and melted cheese that looks like Cheez Whiz -- not what he was expecting.

He picked the bacon and cheese off, complaining that they didn't belong.

A friend said she had once made the same mistake. What he should have ordered was the oyster sandwich ($5.75), which comes without the extras.

The ramshackle Crab Shack is something of a St. Petersburg institution, right next to one of St. Petersburg's venerable seafood distributors.

The menu is huge, with every variety of crab (soft shell, Florida golden, blue, stone, Alaskan king and snow). There are all sorts of seafood platter combinations, mostly fried, ranging from $7.25 to $14.95. Blackening, broiling and sauteeing are also available.

The combos include a frog leg platter or a "swamp platter" with frog legs, gator and spicy catfish.

Sandwiches range from $4.75 for a fried clam strip sandwich to $7.95 for the soft shell crab sandwich.

There's a selection of pastas, smoked mullet, oyster stew and clam chowder. The Crab Shack offers early bird specials and a separate lunch menu.

If you decide to eat in, the Crab Shack offers an all-you-can eat fish fry with french fries and slaw for $5.99 on Mondays and all-you-can eat clam strips with fries and slaw for $6.99 on Tuesdays.

The Crab Shack

11400 Gandy Blvd.

St. Petersburg

Phone: (727) 576-7813 Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 1 to 10 p.m. Sunday

Consumers: Two adults and two children

What we got: A bowl of Creole Cajun chowder, oyster poor boy with fries, super sea feast combo with baked potato and salad

What it cost: $24.87

Time it took: 25 minutes

Pay with: Cash, credit cards

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