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dish

By JANET K. KEELER

© St. Petersburg Times, published March 21, 2001


deconstructing

explanations from the inside out

caesar salad

This romaine lettuce salad is not a product of the Roman empire but of the ingenuity of Caesar Cardini, a restaurateur from Tijuana, Mexico. Swamped with patrons and running low on food, Cardini, whose name graces a popular salad dressing line, gathered romaine lettuce, Parmesan cheese, olive oil, lemons and garlic and created a classic in the early 1920s.

In some restaurants, the salad is made tableside, where the saladmaker begins the dressing by crushing garlic and anchovies together to make a paste. Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard, olive oil and two egg yolks are blended next. The romaine is added, followed by a squeeze of lemon. The salad is tossed with croutons and Parmesan cheese and finished with freshly ground black pepper.

Because of concern about salmonella and raw egg yolks, they are often left out or coddled, which means the eggs are cooked slightly in simmering water. Anchovies are another expendable ingredient and were not in the original salad.

cooking class

When buying mushrooms, whether loose or packaged, they should look fresh and be free from major blemishes or gouges. The Mushroom Council says mushrooms should be kept in paper bags or covered with paper towels in the refrigerator. Most will last about a week.

constant comment

"Rice is born in water and must die in wine." -- Italian proverb

this web site cooks

http://people.delphi.com/webusa/sopranos/index.html

Jeanne Callaghan of Atlanta, Jeanne C to her family and friends, has a thing for The Sopranos. So naturally, she has built a Web site to proclaim her devotion to the HBO series and its love of food.

The site pairs recipes with each week's episode and highlights the discussions or situations in which food takes center stage in the mob show. Looking for ziti recipes? You'll find them here.

sopranospeak

Just three episodes into the 2001 season of The Sopranos, and already boss Tony was having deep-seated issues with cold cuts. If you watch the show and wondered what lunch meat "gabbagool" is, HBO publicist Tobe Becker tells us it's slang for capicola, though the spelling, she says, is a mystery.

here's his beef

The Nibbler, a.k.a. St. Petersburg Times food critic Chris Sherman, long ago learned that the room with the table and chairs is not for computers or for company. Give that room back to everyday dining, he says. Have breakfast, cook and watch TV in the kitchen, but have supper in the dining room as often as you can. Use place mats and napkins, and even takeout pizza will taste better. Here's to family time.

color it kooky

Trying to be this year's green ketchup, Kool-Aid has introduced Magic Twists, drink mixes that are not exactly what they seem. For instance, Changin' Cherry powder starts out red, changes to blue when water is added and then tastes like cherry. Look for Grape Illusion, too. A small envelope costs 25 cents.

local food finds

The Food Network was in Clearwater last week filming three businesses for its show Food Finds. Ward's Seafood, Strudel King and Pelican Bay will be the focus of an episode to air in July, though the exact date has not been set. Michele Cameron's seafood market has been selling fresh seafood in north Pinellas County for 50 years, and Peter Dunst, the strudel king, makes eight varieties of the pastry from a 200-year-old recipe. Pelican Bay, owned by Char Pfaelzer, specializes in dip mixes.

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