By JANET K. KEELER

© St. Petersburg Times, published April 11, 2001

It's such a treat to find deviled eggs among the pasta salads and veggie trays at a potluck party. You spot them across the crowded table, sitting pretty in a gingham deviled-eggs-only dish.

Better grab two because you know there will be none left when you bound back for seconds. You aren't the only one taken with those tiny paprika freckles.

How did the comfort food craze bypass the beloved deviled egg? Meatloaf, mashed potatoes, even kid-friendly macaroni and cheese dressed up and went out for dinner at restaurants across the country while the deviled egg stayed home.

So many of us are hung up on cholesterol and never eat eggs anymore. Besides, who's old-fashioned enough to make deviled eggs? Which may be conversely just why we love them when we get a chance and ought to reconsider making some at home. They're easier than you think, and with the addition of Caribbean and Indian flavorings or tuna, chicken or crab, a deviled egg becomes a worldly wonder.

Perhaps working with the temperamental nature of the hard-boiled egg turned the deviled egg into the spoils of the Easter egg hunt rather than the latest thing to top a Caesar salad.

(If you make deviled eggs from dyed eggs, make sure they haven't been out of the refrigerator for more than two hours. After that, they become rotten eggs.)

Getting perfect hard-boiled eggs is a little harder than boiling water, but not much. Here's one way to hard-boil eggs: Put them in a pan in a single layer, cover them with water and let them sit for 30 minutes to come to room temperature. Then bring them to the boil over medium heat. Turn off the heat, cover the pan and allow the eggs to stand for 15 minutes. This technique keeps eggs from cracking and prevents that unappetizing dark ring from forming around the yolk.

You'll find lots of "fail-proof" advice on how to peel eggs so that the shell slips off and your egg is perfectly gougeless. It's more realistic to figure on at least two ragged eggs out of a dozen. Add those yummy yolks to the stuffing and toss the messed up whites to the dog.

The trick to peeling an egg is to make sure the translucent membrane around the egg comes off with the shell. You'll know when you've failed because the stubborn shell sticks, forcing you to pick it off bit by bit.

Run the egg under cool water as you peel so that the water gets under the membrane. It is almost always easier to peel eggs when they are hot; cooled eggs expand slightly, making a tighter fit to the shell.

Noshing a deviled egg is a guilty pleasure, owing to the double fat whammy from the egg yolk (5 grams) and the mayo (11 grams per tablespoon). Surely, though, a nation of people who eat dinner behind the wheel of a car a few nights a week can find room for a little more of the devil.

The term "deviled" was coined in 1868 by the Underwood boys of Boston to describe their product of ground ham and "special" spices, according to the company's history. Underwood Deviled Ham is still on the market, and now many other foods, including eggs and crab, are served "deviled."

To be truly deviled, a dish has to have a kick, most often from Dijon mustard, hot sauce, cayenne pepper or chopped hot peppers. For a classic deviled egg, the yolks are mashed and mixed with Dijon mustard, mayonnaise and a few drops of Tabasco.

Deviled eggs are also called stuffed eggs, a more appropriate description of the many varieties that have no heat to them at all.

The deviled egg is many things to many people. There are some who would never consider making the down-home hors d'oeuvres without sweet pickle relish. Still others want the crunch of finely chopped celery.

For some, the sprinkle of paprika is a legend not to be messed with. Mayonnaise or the sweeter Miracle Whip? That's a question that can set off a firecracker of a feud. Some add milk or cream for smoothness. Salt and pepper, always.

Tradition is fine, but there is so much more to be done with a deviled egg. Use tuna or chopped chicken for a heartier stuffing; minced shallots and capers add a little class. If it's crunch you're after, consider chopped almonds or pecans; use a larger piece for a garnish on top.

Get the stuffed egg dancing to a world beat with non-traditional flavors such as cumin, cilantro, chutney or ginger.

Throwing fat gram worries to the wind? Add bacon.

Looking for a compact source of protein? Eat 'em up. The bonus is vitamins A, D, E and B-12 and all eight essential amino acids.

And what about a topper for Caesar salad? Forget the grilled chicken or salmon. How about eggs overstuffed with a melange of crab, capers and cayenne?

Tell the chef the devil made you do it.

Tuna-Stuffed Eggs

• 4 hard-boiled eggs
• 1 small can of tuna
• 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
• 2 tablespoon capers
• 1 tablespoon mayonnaise
• Pepper and salt

Halve the eggs and mash the yolks with all ingredients until it is a thick paste. Wet your fingers and form paste into a ball to fit back into the egg white.

Source: www.abc.net.

No-Yolk Turkey-Salad Stuffed Eggs

• 8 eggs
• 2 celery stalks
• 2 green onions
• 1/2 sweet red pepper
• 3/4 pound cooked turkey
• 3 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 1 tablespoon cider vinegar
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon salt

Place eggs with enough water to cover in medium saucepan. Bring to boil; reduce heat to simmer for 10 minutes. Drain; hold under cold running water to cool. Peel; halve crosswise. Remove yolks and save for another use.

Cut celery, green onions, red pepper and turkey into 1-inch cubes and put in food processor. Whirl with on-off pulses until finely chopped; do not overprocess. Scrape into medium-size bowl. Stir in mayonnaise, mustard, vinegar, sugar and salt.

Spoon 1 rounded tablespoon into hollow of each egg half. Serve or refrigerate up to 12 hours.

Source: www.recipesource.com.

Stuffed Eggs Jalapeno

• 4 eggs, hard-boiled, peeled, cut in half lengthwise
• 1/3 cup ripe avocado, mashed
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro
• 1 tablespoon minced green onion
• 2 teaspoon (or more to taste) minced, seeded jalapeno pepper
• 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste
• Fresh cilantro leaves for garnish, optional

Carefully remove yolk from the eggs and mash in a bowl with avocado, cilantro, onion, peppers, lime juice and salt. Blend well. Fill the egg whites with the yolk mixture with a little mound on top. Garnish top with cilantro; chill.

Chutney Stuffed Eggs

• 6 hard-boiled eggs
• 3 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 1 tablespoon chutney, drained and chopped
• 1 tablespoon chopped green onion
• 2 teaspoons curry powder
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon pepper

Halve the eggs lengthwise; scoop yolks into a small bowl. Mash yolk thoroughly. Stir in remaining ingredients. Mix well and refill whites. Garnish with chopped green onion,if you wish.

Source: "Family Circle."

Mexican Deviled Eggs

• 6 large hard-boiled eggs, peeled
• 1/4 cup mayonnaise
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 tablespoon capers, chopped
• 1 teaspoon prepared mustard
• 1 to 2 teaspoons minced jalapeno pepper
• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• Salt to taste
• Chopped cilantro for garnish

Cut the eggs lengthwise into halves. Slip out the yolks and mash with a fork. Mix the mashed yolks with the mayonnaise, cumin, capers, mustard, jalapeno, cayenne and salt.

Fill the egg whites with the egg yolk mixture, heaping lightly. Garnish with cilantro.

Source: Janet K. Keeler, Times food editor.

Almond Deviled Eggs

• 6 hard-boiled eggs
• 1/4 cup mayonnaise
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• 1/4 teaspoon garlic salt
• 3 teaspoons roasted almonds, finely chopped
• Fresh parsley
• 12 roasted almonds

Slice eggs in half lengthwise; remove yolks and set whites aside. In a small bowl, mash yolks, mayonnaise, mustard, garlic salt and chopped almonds. Evenly fill the egg whites. Garnish with whole almonds and parsley. Chill until read to serve.

Source: recipesource.com.

Best Deviled Eggs

• 6 hard-cooked eggs
• 1/4 cup mayonnaise
• 11/2 tablespoons sweet pickle relish
• 1 teaspoon mustard
• 1/8 teaspoon salt
• Dash pepper
• Paprika

Slice eggs in half lengthwise and carefully remove yolks. Mash yolks with mayonnaise. Add relish, mustard, salt and pepper; stir well. Spoon yolk mixture into egg whites. Garnish on top with shake of paprika.

Source: "Southern Living."

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